Prime/Pre-lube/Pre-oil L6-250 after rebuild
- Thread starter bobdobbs
- Start date
Spin at fast speed until you get oil dripping from the rockers, somewhere around 30 seconds to a minute. If you're careful you can use a 1/4" drive 5/16" socket and extension chucked into the drill (make sure the ball that holds the socket on works well, or tape them together). On these engines the oil is going to try to fly out of the distributor hole so I jam a funnel into the hole and run the socket/extension through it.
78 granada
Well-known member
I used this method and it worked fantastic. You can feel the pressure and watch it as it lubes the top end. Question: Now that I pre lubed and ran the engine, is it necessary to pre lube it again when I install new hydraulic lifters? Will they pump up quickly or do I risk popping one out of there??? Everything else is primed and well lubricated.....
A little hint here.When you spin the oil pump with the drill,have someone use a socket and breaker bar to turn the crankshaft 90 degrees at a time until the crank has made two complete revolutions.This helps with getting a better distributation of the oil.Wait about 30 seconds between crank movements.Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
Hi, concerning the new lifters by 78 granada, you should soak the lifters in oil for a while before you install them. I'm a little confused because they should be in there before the pre lube. If you are just changing lifters the whole top end is coming off. The pre lube is really for the bearing shells, so if you are changing the cam it won't hurt. Good luck
78 granada
Well-known member
Yes just the lifters. I was swapping pushrods and the suction pulled one of the lifters out and its down there laying on its side! I can not get it back. So, because I have to pull the head and I had a couple lifters that wouldn't seem to quiet down with adjustment, I decided to put a premium set in as long as I am at it. Just lazy about pulling the distributor and priming again. Figured with the rest of the motor lubed and run I could get away with oiling up the lifters and be done with it. They won't be pumped up though so maybe not a good idea???
Thanks guys.
To recap: 5/16 hex through the distributor hole. Spin the drill reverse, or counter-clockwise. Have a buddy turn the motor clockwise while you drill so the oil can get to all the rockers.
Anybody want to share what they use for break-in oil? I don't want to start a holy war, but conventional oil with a zddp additive or Brad Penn break-in oil seems to be the consensus. I'm not seating rings as I'm only installing a rebuilt head and timing set, so it may be a moot point.
I think I'm going to just drop the cash on the special tool rather than risk dropping things into the engine. Looks like amazon has "OEMTOOLS 27062 Ford 5/16 Inch Hex Oil Pump Primer" for $12.
To recap: 5/16 hex through the distributor hole. Spin the drill reverse, or counter-clockwise. Have a buddy turn the motor clockwise while you drill so the oil can get to all the rockers.
Anybody want to share what they use for break-in oil? I don't want to start a holy war, but conventional oil with a zddp additive or Brad Penn break-in oil seems to be the consensus. I'm not seating rings as I'm only installing a rebuilt head and timing set, so it may be a moot point.
I think I'm going to just drop the cash on the special tool rather than risk dropping things into the engine. Looks like amazon has "OEMTOOLS 27062 Ford 5/16 Inch Hex Oil Pump Primer" for $12.
bobdobbs":70czikij said:Thanks guys.
To recap: 5/16 hex through the distributor hole. Spin the drill reverse, or counter-clockwise. Have a buddy turn the motor clockwise while you drill so the oil can get to all the rockers.
Anybody want to share what they use for break-in oil? I don't want to start a holy war, but conventional oil with a zddp additive or Brad Penn break-in oil seems to be the consensus. I'm not seating rings as I'm only installing a rebuilt head and timing set, so it may be a moot point.
I think I'm going to just drop the cash on the special tool rather than risk dropping things into the engine. Looks like amazon has "OEMTOOLS 27062 Ford 5/16 Inch Hex Oil Pump Primer" for $12.
DO NOT SPIN THE DRILL COUNTER CLOCKWISE on the 250 as you will only blow air into the oil pan. the distributor on the 250 spins CLOCKWISE.
78 granada
Well-known member
Best break in oil is 'Driven' by Joe Gibbs.
78 granada":1ujmxaoa said:
Let's not split the thread into 2 topics.
My lill pea brain is startin to get confused.
( May B cuz I C U on another thread that applies to this topic…I'll go over there to comment).
RichCreations
Well-known member
bobdobbs":g2d5767x said:Thanks guys.
To recap: 5/16 hex through the distributor hole. Spin the drill reverse, or counter-clockwise. Have a buddy turn the motor clockwise while you drill so the oil can get to all the rockers.
Anybody want to share what they use for break-in oil? I don't want to start a holy war, but conventional oil with a zddp additive or Brad Penn break-in oil seems to be the consensus. I'm not seating rings as I'm only installing a rebuilt head and timing set, so it may be a moot point.
I think I'm going to just drop the cash on the special tool rather than risk dropping things into the engine. Looks like amazon has "OEMTOOLS 27062 Ford 5/16 Inch Hex Oil Pump Primer" for $12.
Clockwise on a small six, not counter-clockwise!
I use heavy duty diesel oil (rotella 15/40) For break in, as it still has lots of zddp, (actually I just run it all the time in old engines) and I use a bottle of additive as well for break in.
Hi, the pre lube is not important on a lifter. As long as you soak them so they are filled with oil before assembly. When you start it oil pressure will take care of the lifters. They will fill and drain every time you turn the engine on and off. Good luck