144 Ignition Problem

Hi Everyone

First off I posted this in the Econoline corner before I realized it would probably be better placed here. Sorry for any inconvenience.

I'm new to the forum here and this is my first post. I have just acquired a 61 econoline pickup and am excited to get going on it. Had a hard time finding a good source of information but it appears I've found it here.

Anywho, I did try to search through the threads to find an answer to my particular problem and I can't seem to pin it down.

This truck still has the original 144 and 3 speed. The motor is free and it seems like it won't take much for me to get it running. I've built a few 200s and several sbf and sbc so I'm not a total newb but I'm not great with trouble shooting electric issues, probably lack of patience.

Ok, I digress, here is what I have going on. I have put a new starter and solenoid in the truck along with some new battery cables and cleaned up the grounds I could easily find. When I turn the key I'm getting nothing. No solenoid click, no starter noise, nothing at all. However, if I set a screw driver across the solenoid to "jump it" it will crank as long as I have the key turned to start, nothing if I dont. Also, once it starts cranking I can remove the screwdriver and it will continue to crank as long as I keep the key turned all the way over to start. As soon as a let go over key it quits cranking.

First I thought something was up with the wire from the ignition switch, but why would it continue to crank once I remove the screwdriver abd then stop when I left off of the key?

I'm not quite sure to go from here. I've replaced several solenoids and starters and am familiar with the "diagnostics procedure" for the common bad starter or solenoid, but have never encourage treed one with this unique switch problem.

Thanks in advance guys. I hope I'm not beating any other threads into the ground but I just can't seem to find one pertaining to this problem with the switch.
 
:unsure: Its probably time for a new ignition switch. Good luck :nod:
 
I was starting to think the same thing but would that explain why it continues to deliver power after I remove the screwdriver from the solenoid and also why it stops when I let off the key.

I was thinking bad fuse or wire in between but I can't see how the switch is still working as intented after the initial jump.
 
Vote number 2 to take a closer look at the ignition switch
 
wdstylr":1ik61ag6 said:
I was starting to think the same thing but would that explain why it continues to deliver power after I remove the screwdriver from the solenoid and also why it stops when I let off the key.

I was thinking bad fuse or wire in between but I can't see how the switch is still working as intented after the initial jump.
Back feeding somewhere.
 
RichCreations":3gyjescb said:
wdstylr":3gyjescb said:
I was starting to think the same thing but would that explain why it continues to deliver power after I remove the screwdriver from the solenoid and also why it stops when I let off the key.

I was thinking bad fuse or wire in between but I can't see how the switch is still working as intented after the initial jump.
Back feeding somewhere.


Where or how would you recommend I begin to try to track that down. I've never dealt with a problem like this before.
 
Hi, your first test is take the little wire off the solenoid (next to the big one from the battery) and hook up a test light to the negative battery post. When your helper turns the key to start the light should go on, key to run the light should go off. Do this a few times. Is it possible the solenoid is upside down? The bracket should be up top. Good luck
 
Make sure the solenoid is getting a good ground to the doghouse and that the doghouse/chassis is grounded well.
 
RichCreations":3vlzqir6 said:
wdstylr":3vlzqir6 said:
I was starting to think the same thing but would that explain why it continues to deliver power after I remove the screwdriver from the solenoid and also why it stops when I let off the key.
I was thinking bad fuse or wire in between but I can't see how the switch is still working as intented after the initial jump.
Back feeding somewhere.

IE take the switch out, unscrew it frm the dash, (cross the wires there to start as a test), get a new switch ~
 
Possible there is not enough juice to energize the solenoid but maybe enough to hold it there after the initial jump. Looks like the key switch to me. Let us know what you find!!!
 
Hold on a second.

On a Ford Solenoid, how exactly are you jumping it with a screwdriver?

Which terminals are you connecting?

solenoid02.jpg
 
Hi, to crank the engine with a screw driver or a starter switch the small wire near the battery wire is removed and that terminal marked S is jumped to the battery terminal marked A. Be aware that if the key is on the engine may start, and if in gear it will roll. As mentioned before test at small wire from S for current when key is held on start. When key is held on start, or S to A is jumped, the heavy wire to the starter B should be hot. Terminal I (which is not on ALL cars) gives the distributor all 12 volts to aid in starting and like B is only hot when the key is held to start. The solenoid delivers battery voltage to the starter when 12 volts is applied to S. Good luck
 
After sleeping on it, and reading back through the OP, I'm thinking that the problem is in your ignition switch, and I suspect poor / corroded connections on the back of it.

My theory is that the switch isn't sending enough current to trigger the solenoid, but enough to hold it in once you jump it directly with a screwdriver (assuming you're jumping the battery and 'S' terminals).

Put a voltmeter on the 'S' terminal wire, you should see the same as battery voltage. I'm guessing it'll be lower, in which case you should take a close look at the connector on the back of the switch.
 
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