No oil pressure at 4000 rpm

The drilling I did on the top end was to each rocker as recommended in the falcon handbook? I was not sure as to whether I really needed to because the rockers came presumably ready to go. But when I saw that I was just enlarging to the size of the stock rockers I though what the heck, give it a try. I went with the lifters from Hylift Johnson on the recommendation of Gary at RU - said the others are junk so I took his advice. Boy, V8s are a heck of a lot easier to build but still not as cool!!
 
I wonder if I can use a different rocker tower bolt for the oil feed end to reduce the amount to the top end or maybe it is restricted enough by the stock one? I guess if I tear this down I can get the HT 900R lifters and a new pump. Forgot to thank you for the advice!
 
78 granada":1ymcrcte said:
The drilling I did on the top end was to each rocker as recommended in the falcon handbook? I was not sure as to whether I really needed to because the rockers came presumably ready to go. But when I saw that I was just enlarging to the size of the stock rockers I though what the heck, give it a try. I went with the lifters from Hylift Johnson on the recommendation of Gary at RU - said the others are junk so I took his advice. Boy, V8s are a heck of a lot easier to build but still not as cool!!


No one can track and trace white box goods. I'm pretty sure that's the issue. Lifters can drop oil pressure just like that.

Check the obvious meantime. 5/16" hex shaft length should be shorter than the US 200,

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9798
alloydave":1ymcrcte said:
....you will need an aussie oil pump drive if yours is buggered USA drives are
10mm [0.394"] too short -can cut down 351c drive but will leave 1 unhardened end.
..
cheer Dave

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=11134

alloydave":1ymcrcte said:
if you have a aussie 250 beware the american oil pump drive .I was supplied one off an american 250 for my wagon and there about 10mm to short for the aussie . I got to the stage when i was winding the motor over to get oil pressure for start up and couldnt get any ,the shaft would quite reach the bottom of the dissy. I think we have used cleveland v8 shafts in the past and just cut them down to size ,but this can leave you with one unhardened end .We went through all the stock of 250 drives at my local speed shop and found that they had been supplied the wrong drives in an order ,luckly i didnt start the motor with that drive or it could of got quite messy . :shock:

cheers dave

/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=74715&p=574696#p574696
62Ranchero200":1ymcrcte said:
I assembled my 250 recently ... No oil pump drive shaft bushing. The shaft, which is shorter than the shaft on a 200, fits into the oil pump and the dist. shaft.

Thanks
Bob
 
Thanks for remembering those posts and passing them along to me. We might be on to something. Although my lifters weren't white box, they can in a Hylift Johnson branded package, I have noticed a difference in valve train noise that is not consistent. Very quiet but different just the same. I have the brand you suggested written down for the teardown later. I am sure that the hex shaft is the correct one, no problem there. As I noted too, it looks like I got a little seepage of coolant from the head gasket. I used the felpro and checked the head torque after the initial run it both times - I reused it. Anybody out there have a better option than the felpro which are reported to be reusable at least once?
 
78 granada":215y4uog said:
Thanks for remembering those posts and passing them along to me. We might be on to something. Although my lifters weren't white box, they can in a Hylift Johnson branded package, I have noticed a difference in valve train noise that is not consistent. Very quiet but different just the same. I have the brand you suggested written down for the teardown later. I am sure that the hex shaft is the correct one, no problem there. As I noted too, it looks like I got a little seepage of coolant from the head gasket. I used the felpro and checked the head torque after the initial run it both times - I reused it. Anybody out there have a better option than the felpro which are reported to be reusable at least once?


Other then the old steel shim gaskets (which always leaked) no head gasket is "re-usable"
 
78 granada":172k3mq4 said:
Thanks for remembering those posts and passing them along to me. We might be on to something. Although my lifters weren't white box, they can in a Hylift Johnson branded package, I have noticed a difference in valve train noise that is not consistent. Very quiet but different just the same. I have the brand you suggested written down for the teardown later. I am sure that the hex shaft is the correct one, no problem there. As I noted too, it looks like I got a little seepage of coolant from the head gasket. I used the felpro and checked the head torque after the initial run it both times - I reused it. Anybody out there have a better option than the felpro which are reported to be reusable at least once?

Any head gasket. The lovely old 22 thou D8 thin shim gasket was indeed the only re-usable gasket. No longer made...

The Appco Felpro Monotorque is what I use down here.

Vitor Reinz should have something similar for you.


78 granada":172k3mq4 said:
Just to be clear the HT900R will fit my 78 250? Neither Jegs nor Summit show them as an application?

Yes, the lifter, it'll fit the block just like that...

:unsure:

But the key thing is getting your car running with oil pressure, yes?


I've decided you'd better go back to having the B-2083 lifters checked, and if you've still got access to a stock hydraulic 3.3 or 4.1 rocker shaft for the same year as your head casting, I'd use it.

Talk with your supllier of the lifters, buy some 50 dollar new 2083's, and a good in service rocker shaft and old 250 stanard pushrods, and get the thing running again. Re bed in the new lifters, and check that oil pump again.

I'm certain, based on what you've said, that its just a simple lifter bleed down collpase, but yopu've said enough to concern me that the adjustable rocker shaft might be bleeding off to much oil as well.



The US 250 has a higher volume oil pump than the 144/170/200'S , and heavy duty crank, and lots of US style uprades in the block.

Down here, our log 200 and 250's from 1971 to 1976 didn't get the US 250 oil pump, and they don't recomend the cross flow High Volme pump because it gives the Log and 2v 250 heads way too much oil.


From what research I've done, I think Ford USA's engieers made an oil pump flow upgrade for 1969 onwards 250's.

I'd never use the unrestricted adjustable rocker shaft on a US 250, it will most likely take too much oil to the top of the engine.

I'm thinking that is your most likely problem.




Just to recap on what we do down here:

The HT 900 are all oil through 0.874 thou pushrod lifters.

I guess you don't want the roller rockers that come with that package.



Initally the HT 900R's or VL65R were Cleveland 2v and 4v hydraulic lifters only for cast in rocker or posi locked studs. The oil priority is only through a hollow pushrod.

In 1984, Yella Terra designed some extruded Roller rockers for the non cross flow 2V 250 and log heads, and was able to use the common FE and Cleveland rocker arm conversions with a special rocker shaft on a posi locked stud conversion.

Then, later on for our log and 2v 250 sixes, they made non roller rocker adjustables to reduce cost. As Chevrolet has found with the 1996 onwardsLS1's, roller rockers aren't needed on engines that only do 6600 rpm tops, with less than 300 pounds peak of the seat loads.

So this is the kit, but its 680 bucks Australian, and I guess its too Dollars X x X "cOST-A-LOT"


But it is a good kit. wsa111 has found that thiskit restricts blead back to the distributor shaft, and has issues, so that's why he suggests slot machining the lifters to bath the cam gear and distributor. In fact, there is an option of even drilling the distributor shaft too.

Anyway, the kit has some restrictions, but it uses the HT 900 lifter, GM Holden 186/XU1 202 cubic inch pushrods, and the common roller rocker shaft stud, without the roller tip rockers, but with the roller trunion at the stud. It has two meaty stud girdles to stop the whole shooting match from moving too.

ST_SHAFT_ADJ__43820.1431564805.400.400.jpg


ST_2014__28565.1431574482.1280.1280.jpg


IMG_5609__11612.1457589718.1280.1280.jpg


You use a 186S or XU1 Torana pushrod which are common and easy to get, but then you have to run a the common Street Terra non roller tip 1.65:1 Extruded rocker like all non shaft mounted Fords. And its mini rocker shaft.

The lifter is found on millons of Fords since 1962...

x-flows from 1976 to 1992
1965 on 240/300's,
1969.5 to 1983 335 small and midland blocks,
1983 -1995 HSC 2300 and HSO 2500 in line fours,
1968 to 1997 385 Big blocks
Boss 302 Windsor and WCP aftermrket SVO and FRP "Clevo" blocks
And 1962 to 2002 Windsor SBF'S

And Yella Terra roller rocker conversion 200 and 250's above
 
Funny, I have the steel gasket I took off it sitting right here. Pretty cruddy but I cleaned it with a pad and oven cleaner. Almost sprayed it with copper and used it again but didn't have the guts, Ha!!

I would sure like to tackle this, one potential cause at a time, so I can say precisely what the root is. But then again I don't know how many times I am willing to run this thing out of oil in the process?

In theory, the new rocker assembly should not flow as much oil as the stock one. Rocker holes I drilled out to the valve stem are the same dia. as stock. But, the stock shaft has a flat along the bottom where the oil holes are - I believe this facilitates lubrication but the RAU unit I have does not have that flat - decreased flow. I get maximum oil pressure with the drill priming method. I watched this with the valve cover off and the oil was well returned to the sump.

My lifters are american made here in Michigan, not China, and not generic. I can't say that they are not collapsing for sure but they are fairly quiet and I do have them adjusted on the lose side if anything. They are brand new. Don't really know how to check them.....I guess I can get a new set for the money, what the hell.

If I put in a new OEM pump, go back to standard rockers, put in another set of brand new lifters and the oil pressure holds, I won't have a clue why. Funny, these hobbies chose us, we don't chose them!!!
 
78 granada":2prk6ysd said:
Funny, I have the steel gasket I took off it sitting right here. Pretty cruddy but I cleaned it with a pad and oven cleaner. Almost sprayed it with copper and used it again but didn't have the guts, Ha!!

I would sure like to tackle this, one potential cause at a time, so I can say precisely what the root is. But then again I don't know how many times I am willing to run this thing out of oil in the process?

In theory, the new rocker assembly should not flow as much oil as the stock one. Rocker holes I drilled out to the valve stem are the same dia. as stock. But, the stock shaft has a flat along the bottom where the oil holes are - I believe this facilitates lubrication but the RAU unit I have does not have that flat - decreased flow. I get maximum oil pressure with the drill priming method. I watched this with the valve cover off and the oil was well returned to the sump.

My lifters are american made here in Michigan, not China, and not generic. I can't say that they are not collapsing for sure but they are fairly quiet and I do have them adjusted on the lose side if anything. They are brand new. Don't really know how to check them.....I guess I can get a new set for the money, what the heck.

If I put in a new OEM pump, go back to standard rockers, put in another set of brand new lifters and the oil pressure holds, I won't have a clue why. Funny, these hobbies chose us, we don't chose them!!!

I have no input on your oiling issues, but do yourself a favor, and skip the steel gasket, there is a reason OEMs quit using them.
 
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