Carter fuel pump mod?

G

gus91326

Well-known member
Supporter 2018
Guys:
I want to upgrade the pump on my motor to the Carter Super Street version and I have a good idea on how to do it. I checked the CI archive and saw the page on doing this mod. Does anybody know of a place that has more pics on this? The CI writeup is a little vague for me and I want to make sure that I am doing it correct. Thanks in advance!
 
RichCreations":2bhql3x7 said:
gus91326":2bhql3x7 said:
Absolutely- I'm open to other ways to get good pressure.
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I run an electric, it really is the way to go...
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X2 (y) It is a better way , faster starting ,the bowls always go low . Also if you turn up the wick you will want that fuel pump opening to vent the crank case. What happens is blow by keeps the oil from the rocker and lifters from draining back, the drain back holes are not enough. A vent at the fuel pump opening fixes that. The blow by can excape there and not compete with the oil. The south Am. guys do this, if interested search them on you tube.
 
drag-200stang":2z44rrf0 said:
RichCreations":2z44rrf0 said:
gus91326":2z44rrf0 said:
Absolutely- I'm open to other ways to get good pressure.
Click to expand...
I run an electric, it really is the way to go...
Click to expand...

X2 (y) It is a better way , faster starting ,the bowls always go low . Also if you turn up the wick you will want that fuel pump opening to vent the crank case. What happens is blow by keeps the oil from the rocker and lifters from draining back, the drain back holes are not enough. A vent at the fuel pump opening fixes that. The blow by can excape there and not compete with the oil. The south Am. guys do this, if interested search them on you tube.
Click to expand...

interesting idea drag, and it does make sense as well. and i do agree with running an electric pump as well.
 
Sorry guys, I should have explained further. I have a CI head with a 4 barrel. I have a regular pump that gets me somewhere between 3-6 PSI. I'd like to be closer to 7. Sounds like electric is still the consensus.
 
gus91326":14al0c2l said:
Sorry guys, I should have explained further. I have a CI head with a 4 barrel. I have a regular pump that gets me somewhere between 3-6 PSI. I'd like to be closer to 7. Sounds like electric is still the consensus.
Click to expand...

YUP...
 
RichCreations":mm8xcwbl said:
gus91326":mm8xcwbl said:
Sorry guys, I should have explained further. I have a CI head with a 4 barrel. I have a regular pump that gets me somewhere between 3-6 PSI. I'd like to be closer to 7. Sounds like electric is still the consensus.
Click to expand...

YUP...
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Yes , electric .
 
thing's makin me dizzy Seth.
anyway to stop the spinnin?

for the mechanical - just take out the pin, put in the arm from the other pump… but skip that! follow the ele mod 4 the cfm head!
 
gus91326":3ne13579 said:
Guys:
I want to upgrade the pump on my motor to the Carter Super Street version and I have a good idea on how to do it. I checked the CI archive and saw the page on doing this mod. Does anybody know of a place that has more pics on this? The CI writeup is a little vague for me and I want to make sure that I am doing it correct. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
.

Push the pin out, and swap the arm over.


There is extra detai here, eliminate what you don't need, and make it simple.

Fuel pumps can be swapped upside down, the arm governs what postion it ends up.

AMC's and 250 Ford Carter pumps were often upside down to some 200 Fords, but it varies depending on year, chassis. Early Broncos turned fuel pumps upside down first, then it all became a white box fuel pump you could install any way.


The post in Classic Inlines was by hasa68mustang, a friend of 66Sprint6 here, and an early Ford Six turbo guy.

note three pages of pictures and advice for your help.

http://www.theturboforums.com/threads/3 ... pump/page2
hasa68mustang":3ne13579 said:
Here is my SBC boost referenced fuel pump. It is a carter strip super pump. I took the arm and pin out of mine and put it in the carter to work on my inline 6 ford. I guess it isnt the best Idea but it worked. heres a pic, I just used the vent tube and epoxied a small piece of brake line in there...
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Totally agree. Turbo Camaro on YouTube flet the same way about lack of info.

The info is given some extra detail here, but it is Ultra Simple.

Just go ahead with it.

Boost_referenced_Carter_fuel_pump_002.jpg


Boost_referenced_Carter_fuel_pump_001.jpg


I'm a totally anti electric fuel pump guy, for net hp verses supply rating, fuel return line, gasoline heat soak, brake/exhaust/suspension fouling /fuel shut off in crash, reliable 1/4 fill to emplty and fuel leak reasons. Etc etc, yadda yadda yadda.

they just aren't safe unless you use ALL the factory GM or Ford electric pump specfic enginerring precautions...And that's a lot of stuff to make sure your car is safe. Like suspension and steering, fuel delivery is primary safety, and should not be glossed over or mis-interpreted.


Enough of the preach

See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsqfqajP404

Limit is 10 psi of turbo boost if its a Carter SuperStreet.

http://www.theturboforums.com/threads/3 ... -fuel-pump
79 Turbo Ghia":3ne13579 said:
This mod was used back in the 70's and 80's, I did it back in 82, worked good at 7psi and under. AK Miller told me not to go over 10psi, and he was right! Then he sold me a bosch elec. pump and a malpassi reg.
Before the elec. pump and regulator, I thought I'd be cute and run it up to 12 psi, ran great till I hit 3rd and the carb went dry, and sparks went flying out the exhaust.
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http://www.turbogemini.com/ is the best on line source for non stock Bosch electric / Malpassi regulator info stuff, but the European and Japanes GM T car and Chevy Luv/ Isuzu light truck cars were over engineereed for safety sake.

They were inboard fuel tank, electric fuel pump, 2-bbl or Bosch fuel injected, and just had all there crap sorted out.

Enough said.

Think on this...

OREGON_FIRE_83ZEPH_4POINT6_002.jpg
 
xctasy":23bh3dit said:
I'm a totally anti electric fuel pump guy, for net hp verses supply rating, fuel return line, gasoline heat soak, brake/exhaust/suspension fouling /fuel shut off in crash, reliable 1/4 fill to emplty and fuel leak reasons. Etc etc, yadda yadda yadda.

they just aren't safe unless you use ALL the factory GM or Ford electric pump specfic enginerring precautions...And that's a lot of stuff to make sure your car is safe. Like suspension and steering, fuel delivery is primary safety, and should not be glossed over or mis-interpreted.
Click to expand...

Assuming you use the correct pump, there is no need to use a return line. Lots of cars switched to electric pumps in the early '70s, and most of them didn't add returns until much later. Using the proper pump eliminates the need for a return - however adding a return is a good engineering decision to keep fuel cooler and reduce or eliminate vapor lock. GM added fuel returns to their carbureted cars in the '60s for these reasons!

I do agree that shut off in a crash is an important safety measure, and there should be parts in place to prevent a bowl overrun. The former can be easily addressed with an inertia switch from any recent Ford - the one installed in the Focus is easy to get from a junkyard and easy to implement. The latter can be addressed easily with this:

http://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Fuel_Pump.html

which engages the pump only when there is a tach signal. In combination, it's a good setup.

There are other, potentially cheaper ways to generally perform this function - you can use an oil pressure-based switch like this:

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_sy ... rts/12-810

or go even cheaper with the Standard Motor Products PS64, like so:

http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/ele ... -pump.html

There are also some hacks involving Bosch fuel pump relays from old CIS cars (VW, Mercedes, Saab, Volvo) but at the end of the day, I think the Revolution Electronics solution isn't *much* more expensive and is much easier. If you want to DIY, search for LPG safety switch or tachymetric relay. You're talking $25-$45 (unless you junkyard) vs. $65 for the Revolution part.
 
FWIW, I believe this is the relay from a Volvo:

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/6934/10 ... k-jetronic

If you can find a '78-'85 240 in a junkyard, it's a way to go. Or buy new from IPD. :)

This page:

http://www.davebarton.com/volvo240mods.html

Shows the wiring diagram towards the bottom.

It's:

30 - battery
15 - switched ignition
87 - fuel pump
87b - would be not connected (but could power something else you want on with a tach signal)
31 - would be not connected (but if it goes to ground will interrupt the fuel pump - could be used in combo with an inertia switch!)
31b - from coil negative

Installed & wired as such, your fuel pump would only turn on when there is activity from the coil, eg when the engine is cranking or running.
 
The Revolution controller will actually do that - when it gets 12v from the ignition switch, it runs the pump for three seconds to prime, then shuts it down. Once it gets a tach signal, it starts back up. You can get more priming with more key cycles.

I *think* that Volvo part does exactly the same thing - I have not tried it, but I believe it does. Other Bosch parts definitely do - I know the version of that relay for a Saab will, but those relays are tough to find. I have not investigation the Benz/BMW/VW versions, but since they're all Bosch I suspect they do as well. Around here, the Volvo relay is easiest to find so that's the one I've messed with. On my Falcon with a Carter electric pump, the priming really isn't necessary unless the car has been sitting for a long time - like months. Even after weeks of sitting idle, the Falcon has enough to fuel to start in just a few cranks of the motor.
 
thesameguy":2m2t4gfw said:
The Revolution controller will actually do that - when it gets 12v from the ignition switch, it runs the pump for three seconds to prime, then shuts it down. Once it gets a tach signal, it starts back up. You can get more priming with more key cycles.

I *think* that Volvo part does exactly the same thing - I have not tried it, but I believe it does. Other Bosch parts definitely do - I know the version of that relay for a Saab will, but those relays are tough to find. I have not investigation the Benz/BMW/VW versions, but since they're all Bosch I suspect they do as well. Around here, the Volvo relay is easiest to find so that's the one I've messed with. On my Falcon with a Carter electric pump, the priming really isn't necessary unless the car has been sitting for a long time - like months. Even after weeks of sitting idle, the Falcon has enough to fuel to start in just a few cranks of the motor.
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Perfect!!!! Had an A -100 with a 340 with headers in a dog house, it was always dry, till elect.
 
I did this mod about 4 years ago with excellent results! I am consistently getting 9psi of pressure with the carter pump. Had to put an inline regulator to bring it down to 1.5psi as it shot a jet of fuel of out the autolite vent bowls :D. Dead reliable too.
 
"...this mod…"
Sorry, Which? hard to follow on a longer thread…
Thank you DubyaDee
 
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