68 200 - Carb, distributor help needed

havnt played with my mustang in a lot of years and got it running again last week. Carb needs a rebuild to run correctly, but why rebuild when you can upgrade right lol. It sbeen a while since Ive paid attention to these engines and have fallen behind with what we are seeing work as the best carb upgrade anymore. Ten years ago it was a 2bbl holly 350 cfm, now Im reading about weber 1 barrels and autolite 1101's, so I guess Im looking for opinions on what I should pick up. The combo is a stock 200 in a 68 mustang. I dont exactly know what carb and distributor is in there now (couldve been rebuilt/swapped) before me. I'll attach a few pics that hopefully someone can say, "hey bone head, thats a XXX and a XXX."

So I want to get this thing running a little better/faster/funner so I can enjoy it a bit more. I'll daily it in the good weather on my five block commute to work, not racing around with this car, just a sunday drive out to a burger joint with the family type of thing.

In reading up on the options, Im seeing that the carbs and distributors work with each other, a 68 should have a duraspark in it already (maybe?)... anyway, I've got a MSD6a box and coil sitting in my garage to use, so I figure toss that in, with whatever carb and distributor combo y'all advise me of, then grab a header and that should do it for the power train upgrades.

So with all that in mind, and with what you're seeing in the pictures, can someone please lay out a carb and distributor (if a new distributor is needed) option that will work together and where to pick them up from (parts stores, online)? Thanks!

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Howdy Sefus:

And welcome back. It appears that you have a stock '68 point type distributor, not DuraSpark. DuraSpark first appeared in '73 soon to be followed by the larger cap DuraSpark II system. Your distributor is one of the first steps to become more EPA correct. The good news is that it has both centrifugal and vacuum advance, but it is still a point type distributor.

The carb appears to be a Holley #1940 service replacement carb. The stock OEM carb for your year should be an Autolite 1100 rated at 150 cfm and no SCV. After Autolite went out of business around 1970 the Holley #1940 became available from FoMoCo as a Service replacement. This carb gets very mixed reviews and offers little is the way of performance, reliability or service.

So, based on what you have, a good tune up would be my suggestion including increasing the initial advance setting to 5 degrees more than stock specs. IIRC stock is around 10 degrees BTC, so adding five more puts your initial at about 15 BTC. Your vacuum advance is internal, so just make sure it is working.

As far as upgrades go, #1 in my book would be to install a DuraSpark II ignition system. For your mostly stock application you can get by by just adding your MSD Blaster coil. OR, you could invest in an advance recurve for a slight increase in performance. THis system will serve you well no matter what else you choose to do in the future.

Next I'd be on the look-out for an Autolite 1101, rated at 210 cfm. They are scarce, but worth the hunt because they are basically a bolt on. The only modification is to flare out to top of the carb adaptor. Did I mention that they are getting scarce? Very scarce. My second choice for your intended use would be a Carter YF from a Granada with a 250 engine (Rated at 193 cfm)or from a ford pickup with a 300 engine (Rated at 210 cfm). This carb will require some additional adapting, such as mounting and linkage.

When your searching your local recycle yards for a DuraSpark II system and carb, be on the look-out for a '78 and later cylinder head to start prepping for when it is time to do a valve job. That next head is where the fun begins.

That should get you started thinking and planning. Keep searching and reading here and keep us posted on your progress.

FYI, my brother is working on a '78 Zephyr with similar goals and intended uses as your project. Stay tuned.

Adios, David

I've heard good things about the Daytona carbs if you don't mind switching to throttle cable setup.

68 Mustang is a nice one to have. That MSD box and coil is good from what I hear, a friend of mine has that in his Fairlane. Having the DSII has been a blessing for me, no more points to worry about just set it and go on your way and improved performance as well.
You know you might enjoy reading the Falcon Performance Handbook it is packed with valuable information and is a good planning guide for changes that you may make down the road as things wear out. Like as mentioned when it gets to be valve job time. It is a great reference tool I pick mine up often.

UR doin some reading. Good on Ya, bro. U will B back in the saddle soon.

"...Performance Handbook…"
available from Matt at VintageInlines for bout $20 bucks.

While U wait for the 'handbook' delivery catch up some more (for free) with "Classic Inlines" archive on any Index page to any forum here on this site. These sources helped me know the right Qs to ask here (shed light on basics 1st). You've kept the car awhile & the '77+ head (if aquired now) will B there 4 U when ready (time & money).

Thanks for the replies! It does look like those 1101's are hens teeth unless I can find one in a junk yard. Most of our yards are really picked over though. Might have to work the Carter YF angle. Was honestly hoping to take the easy road and just find the carb and distributor online to buy and have shipped in but dang are these little carbs spendy come to find out. Think I found a Duraspark II here on this site to buy. I'll start reading up on what it takes to plug and play with the Duraspark. Is it port matching for the butterfly to make the Carter work or are we talking drilling and tapping new mounting holes?

Howdy Back Sefus:

The plus of going to the recycle yard is that you can remove the ignition system as a complete unit; distributor, module, coil, plug wires and wiring harness. All the parts new can get a bit pricy. Getting the wiring harness will simplify your install. Check the shaft of the distributor for excess side to side movement. If no excess side movement it is good to go. Clean all parts and install. Getting a distributor mechanical advance recurved to your situation is a good investment too.

On the Carter YF, the bolt spacing should be the same at 2 5/8". The throttle bore measures 1 9/16". So your stock 1100 T-bore of 1 7/16" will not allow the Carter butterfly to open. Flaring out the top of the adapter is the quick and easy fix. The larger issue will be adapting the linkage. The YF uses a pull from across the valve cover and a different auto trans kick down linkage system. Do a search on this forum to see how others have done it. A Maverick donor, or later Fairmont, Granada is a good source for gas pedal and cable. Take a look at a late model valve cover which had mounting brackets already attached for various linkages.

Doing the parts search on line may be easier, but there is something very nostalgic and adventuresome about a junk yard hunt and finding that special treasure. When/if you do go looking for a late model head, 1978 and later, check out that donor for all of these items and more. Once you do get a core head for rebuilding check back. Better yet, start planning the head build anytime.

The new/old/rebuilt head can be done at your leisure. When it's time, when the original head is leaking valves, blowing oil, your new head will be ready. The upgrade will give you more compression, better flow, more intake tract volume, and more durability. Possibly linkage solutions for your new carb, depending on what you find. Not to mention the pride and joy. And minimized down time.

PS: Where in Washington are you located?

Keep the questions coming and keep us up to date on your progress.

Adios, David

Im up towards Spokane. Problem with the pick and pull yards up here is besides being scrounged over the minute an old car pulls in, they are mud pits this time of year. I might have a line on a Carter YF itself, will start the research on getting the linkages working.

PM sent on distributor.

250 Carter RBS would be a good option as well

$100 on net -
low profile 60s/70s ford hoods
(may B lower than the autolite)

heres where my ignorance will shine, but if I can, let me ask you, besides the DurasparkII distributor, and whichever carb that can run the vacuum advance, what else do I need to pick up to make this work? From what I'm gathering, there is a control module that plugs into the distributor, so what Im trying to determine from the wiring diagrams Im looking at without reading any directions whatsoever, does the MSD 6A Ignition box take the place of that "control module"?

The more how-to threads I read, the more things change between what I thought I needed. Ugg.

'boots'n slicks'
a poster just one or two threads above (or below U on this forum's Index page, click on the last 3rd of the 3rd horrizontal line from the top above » 144-250 "Small Block" Six Performance) this one is going thru the same process. There's an after mrkt wiring harness supplier's schematics (Painless Co.) on his thread.
I'd do as he, get the correct coil to leave out the ballast resisted. Mine all ways went out back in the day w/the slant sixes (Mopar) .

Alright, got my DSII from Bill (thanks again man!) but before I start changing out the distributor and ignition system, Im wanting to get make sure the car runs as is so Im not a dog chasing two cars after changing stuff and not knowing whats causing what if there are any problems. I finally got the timing set to 15 degrees, although I had to turn the idle screw way in to get it to idle high enough to stay running on its own. IN the course of this, I found a vacuum line coming out of the intake and running in a hard tube, then back to rubber, over the valve cover and kind of just sitting in open space (I'll attach a pic). It had a bunch of suction to it, and when I capped it, that was when I finally got the car to idle.

Now I am having a bit of an issue in that when I put the car in gear, it dies. Its a new tranny and converter, built by a shop and installed by me... which means I definitely could have missed something. Easing it into Reverse from park or R or D from Neutral (who needs a neutral safety switch) it just immediately shuts down and this vacuum line has me thinking its part of the problem. The thing is, the line ends and doesnt look like it used to reach anywhere. I havent jacked it up in the air and crawled under yet, but can anyone identify this line and where it should be going? Ive googled the heck out of it with no joy. Thanks!

Pic is a little darker than it should be. I laid the far unconnected end up on the shock tower brace withe a bolt in it. Its the line coming over top the valve cover from the intake and not going to the distributor.
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I C that (I think) in ur 2nd & 3rd pic above.
Not familiar w/that multi port fitting on a log, seen em on a spacer plate under a carb, tho.

Is it the PCV system? By length & bends - does it seem like it'd go to the back VC 'hole'?

Does the C4 (or whatever ur auto transmis) have a TV cable up to the carb?
(don't think it's a vacuum 2 there).

you know, I was poking around in there and almost thought that looked like a carb spacer too. This was my grandfathers car and he was very maintenance meticulous, but also used stuff like an old pickle jar for a radiator overflow catch tank. the car was worked on obviously (different carb than factory from what we determined in this thread) but Id be dang surprised if anything was ever 'upgraded' using parts like a carb spacer.

The C4 should have a vacuum modulator on it and again, I need to crawl under and double check, but Im pretty sure its hooked up under there, although I couldnt tell you where its pulling its vacuum from. Its manual brakes, after the weird vacuum wipers or heaters were done away with, I just dont know where that line would go.

sefus":38px0f6l said:

... that looked like a carb spacer too… but Id be dang surprised if anything was ever 'upgraded' using parts like a carb spacer.
The C4 should have a vacuum modulator on it and again, I need to crawl under and double check, but Im pretty sure its hooked up under there, although I couldnt tell you where its pulling its vacuum from...I just dont know where that line would go.

Click to expand...

OK, we got guys much more familure w/these differences than me. Let C if they show up.

I'll hafta read ur thread some more…

U peruse the "Classic Inlines 'archive' on here, C the "Handbook" ? Some real help there. U No the LOM/SCV break @ '68, port v manefold vacuum differences?...

" LOM/SCV break @ '68, port v manefold vacuum differences?"

Nope. Will start checking that out too.

this vacuum line mystery should be so simple and is just kicking my butt.

Howdy Back Sefus:

The vacuum advance hose/line goes from the ported vacuum source on the non-engine side of the carb. I think it is the brass fitting with the rubber hose attached. You can disconnect and plug the vacuum advance retard hose from the distributor side of the diaphragm and plug the hose. The vacuum retard function of this distributor went away with the original '68 1100 carb.

The vacuum for the auto trans should be a manifold/full vacuum source. I see a metal pipe and a rubber tube leaving from under the carb. One of them is likely the auto trans vacuum source.

Good luck and hang in there.

Adios, David

huh, so that line that goes over the valve cover is the one to go to the tranny. It had me confused because first, I forgot about the tranny needing a vacuum line, and second, because the line goes left and the tranny module is on the right, my idiot brain didnt make the correlation that yeah, maybe a rubber vacuum line would not want to be routed near the exhaust...

so goign to get some line and get that thing plugged in, then wire up the tach to see just how high my "high idle" is that I've had to set it at to get it to idle. First though is the brakes. I did a new master cylinder and all new drums and hardware, but the pedal is going to the floor. Google tells me about bench bleeding the master cylinder. Yep, another thing I didnt know about.