Which weber?

66BroncoDD

New member
Good day all,
I am in the process of a frame off resto-mod of a 66 Bronco. I am fortunate enough to have an extended family member who builds race engines for a living offer to do my little build for the cost of parts. At the moment he has my early 70's 200 (out of a Maverick if I recall correctly) in the shop pulling it apart and cleaning it up. The block has been bored .030 over and he is moving on the the head work. I purchased the 2V conversion adapter from classic inlines for the Weber 32/36. Fairly soon I need to buy the actual carb. There are tons of options for where to steal this carb. Should I take it from a Suzuki Samurai, Mazda B2200, Heep, or something else? Does it really matter?
 
The Carter Weber is Holley 5740 carb, a very good quality remake of the European Escorts Weber DFT 32.


Its too small, but I cannot speak highly enough of this carb. Its an improvement for sure, but WAY to small. Two or three of them might be a good start... :devilish: :eek:



Any Weber 32/36 will be okay as long as the throttle trunions aren't out of round and it hasn't been cracked or in a smash, but many have casting slag in the economiser section, and there were about seven different kinds. So buy one, and post the pictures.

I'd buy on low use, and then set asside some money for good spare parts. Floats and needle valves need to be good, and a rekit requires the right secondary squirter and there are a few different countries that made them too.
 
If you want to keep the throttle on the passenger side, you'll want the mirror-image version called Weber DFV, DFAV, or Holley-Weber 5200.

I got mine from Tom Langdon for a great deal, but found out that mine happened to have an ENORMOUS idle air bleed, which made it lean as hell and isn't available (it's a pressed in part). I don't blame Tom, there's no way anybody could have known without opening it up, but be aware that there are zillions of different calibrations out there, and you might have to do some redneck-jetting like I did.

That said, I like it.
 
On the Weber version of the Holley Weber 5200, its in handed in reverse form.


WeberDGV32_36_G180_2of2_78910_Missing_123456and%201112131415.jpg



In context of the other parts, the power valve itself is item 4

WeberDGV32_36_G180_1of2_12345611121314_Missing_78910.jpg


The big problem is that the US 5200/5210/6500/6510/6520 carbs are is in reverse order to these pictures...its a mirrored carb, has its primary, secondary, and choke control in the opposite positions.

That oughta get you started tho'.


First, Apply a new needle and seat, and re-adjust the float level to spec. You never, ever even start tuning a Weber or Holley Weber unless the fuel float level and fuel control equipment are in triple AAA+ spec.


Then recheck idle corrector.

HolleyWeber5200AirCorrector.jpg


Everyone else who puts a HW 5200 in a six cylinder engine richens the idle.
 
Thanks for the replies! I should clarify. My goal is to buy a remanufactured carb. I see plenty on the web, but I didn't (and still don't) know if there is a significant difference in the jetting/linkage/etc. of say a 32/36 remanufactured for a Cherokee vs one for a B2200. I'll have to look at the DGEV vs. the mirrored versions. My gut is that I want the throttle on the driver's side, but I'm not 100% certain.
 
if the weber goes in a bronk they'll B problems w/off camber situations when leaving the road.
There R mods (a drill & sm bit) 2B done.
Jamers had some suggestions (watch jets) & X is THE man on webers…
I am not but know the bronk (33 yrs ownership, just a few months on mods).

66WarPoney (I think e's on this site) has a link 2 a vid or other source 4 modin the carb 4 fuel starvation prevention.
 
Its an Admirals hat of choices here.


Read this first BA Mustangs post

http://themustangsource.com/forums/f633 ... es-497648/

IMG_20110315_114950.jpg

106_6974.jpg

106_6996.jpg


http://www.rainierfalcons.com/forums/sh ... php?t=2608
http://www.rainierfalcons.com/forums/sh ... php?t=1826

:banghead: The linkage defines the carb (Rod, Intermediated 1969 Mustang interchange, or Maverick/Fairmont cable).
:banghead: The adaptor defines the carb linkage(Classic in lines doesn't Rasie and Swing the carb and linakge to suit the rod system like the Stovebolt adaptor does)
:banghead: the carb defines what adaptor and linkage options you ca have work for you.


You can do anything, but not without make a
1 linkage
2. height, orientation, or
3. Carb

change


You can use anything with the Fairmont linkage, but you have to decide how your going to package it.

The linkage you can use is the swing Langdon adaptor, but since your using the Classic Inlines, you've got to use the Holey Weber 5200, or change the linkage to run a 32/36.

The issue is what kind of Rod linkage do you have now, and what kind of carb linkage are you gonna need to get a 32/36 Weber working with That Adaptor? I'd say you won't get a result unless you forget the Classic Inlines adaptor, and swing the carb and use the Langdon Stovebolt.



Offroading is different, and Jeeps all have bleed back fuel filters, which drops fuel pressure, and improves the Weber 32/36 offroad ability out of sight. So does the correct set up of the float, and that needle valve. They are okay if you do that. People really make it hard on themselves when they don't want to run a return line, and I get tired of telling the same old part line because its really simple...Ford did bleed back lines on Europen Webers in 1971 because of these matters. So its about follwing Past Precendent, and I trust Ford. Ford USA didn't use blead back lines, because every 2-bbl Weber was a Holley Weber with a different fuel pump and a lot of other changes. When people go to a non US standard production carb, they have problems.


The Canadian and US market lhd Ford Cortina for 1971 was a awfull car made is a strike ridden factory, and the Weber 32/36 carb on it was a dawg. The Europeans did a crap load of development work. The 2liter Mercury Capri was the result, and it used a Pinto Holley Weber 5200 carb, and had no problems. So if you go back to a Weber 32/36, then you have to use specfic American advice, not swing from the hip "I dont want no stinkin return line" stuff. You gotta follow through the problems, and knock em on the head with some science, not a range of could be should be drivel. Nuff said...


And the Jeep forums DO go into the float setting and specfically use bleed back, and don't have any issues. All there crap is because of the Prsolite small cap Duraspark cross fire that Ford fixed in 1974,but AMC screwd up for the next 15 years in using the 1973 small Ford Duraspark cap by Prseolite.


Anyway, Swatson454 is da man on Webers, I just copied and read his stuff, and have had a bunch of Pinto 2000 engined cars with this carb. But a Chinese copy Carter YFA carb is about 175 dollars.


Fords FiatX1/9 based 34ADM is the best carb they ever made, a bigger, better Carter Weber really. But it was only used on the 1982 to 1992 Australian Ford Falcon 3.3 and 4.1's, and, although you can get them, there are a bunch of cheap and totally useless other carb knockoffs made by the Chinese that don't have the specfic blead back resitrictions and all the good crud the Ocker Falcons had. So its again requires a whole show and tell education, and that noramlly takes about 12 years for people to cotton on to. Heck, overdrive auto trans adaptors were discussed in 2001 here, and it only took Cranfield and Stinger 5 years to make them in the US, so by 2020, there might be an EMPI Weber ADM 34 you can buy for, say, 145 bucks and slap on your 200 or 250.





Wait for it, fellas!


All the car circumstances alter cases. I'd just get a remade 32/36 with the rod operated linkage, and it'll bolt right up.

For a Bronc, you gotta go through a whole 20 questions rigmarole, and include a lot of SPECIFIC other stuff to make a 32/36 work. I'd just as soon use some US 1-bbl Carter, the Jeep carb or passenger, and be done with all that.

32/36's are too small, and the adaptors cause flow ghoasting, where the turn radius is seriously compromised, and this is why, unless you do some mods, a direct fit 2-bbl is so much better. But hey, this its all just Boulderdash and hot air...once you got the carb you like, I'll tell you how to tune it.All the work arounds have been done, and discussed, and the information is Out There...not on the X files....

images




Option 1

Powerbands.
1. Fairmont/Maverick over rocker cover to drivers side cable
2. Langdon adaptor
3. Holley Weber 5200 from 1974 Mercury Capr 2600

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/thre ... ci.447791/

Option 2

1.'61 linkage (note very similar to the '65)

2. The adaptor: Ariberts special adaptor, a Langdon kind of adaptor, but with a spacial casting he made. He has offered to hand some of the info to another party if they wish to, but this is a specfic 32/36 adaptor

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=56967


IMHO, with the 32/36 carb, the Classic Inline adaptor won't help you any...

3. 32-36DGV


32-36DGVSV.jpg


from http://66mustang.tumblr.com/
tumblr_o25gw6yw7C1qmn0m3o1_1280.jpg
 
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