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Autolite 1100 question

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65 Mustang
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Autolite 1100 question

Post #1 by 65 Mustang » Wed Nov 16, 2016 4:46 pm

Hi. Curious about autolite 1100 differences before and after 1968. I understand this is the year they changed the advance on the distributor. Am I correct in saying that autolites prior to '68 had the spark control valve and those after did not, or am I way off? Also, I notice from looking at photos of 1100's online that the ones without the SVC seem to be missing the vent rod that runs across the body. Is there any connection here? Just wondering. Thanks

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #2 by 65 Mustang » Wed Nov 16, 2016 5:21 pm

Another thought. What is the story with the diaphragms on these carbs? I'm currently running an 1100 with one diaphragm on drivers side. I have an automatic transmission. Someone told me that I should have the one with two diaphragms for an automatic, the second diaphragm acting as another accelerator pump. My car is a '65 200 ci. Did they even make 2 diaphragm 1100's on the '63-67 models or were they only present on the post '67 carbs? Puzzled. Thanks.

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #3 by CZLN6 » Wed Nov 16, 2016 6:19 pm

Howdy Back:

The two changes in the pre/post '68 1100s are no SCV after and the cfm was downsized to 1.1 from 1.2. The CFM in a '69 200 went down from 185 prior to 156. And no, the new distributor cannot make up the difference.

On the diaphragms you mentioned, one on standard transmission rigs and a second on carbs in an engine with an auto trans. The second is a dash pot designed to slow deceleration for the auto trans. If you don't have one it's not a big problem. If your engine kill on slowing for a stop you can remedy it by; 1. increasing the idle speed or 2. slip the trans into neutral.

On the bowl vents their design and function varied considerably over the years with different systems within the same year. The rod doubles as a backup. The brass vent pipe in the carb throat is the main vent. The rod vent stop does help the gas in the bowl from evaporating when sitting for a long time.

Hope that helps. Keep the questions coming.

Adios, David
Last edited by CZLN6 on Thu Nov 17, 2016 10:52 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #4 by bubba22349 » Wed Nov 16, 2016 7:31 pm

X2 only thing I can add is that on the California emissions cars they made those changes a year earlier on the Autolites. Good luck :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #5 by chad » Thu Nov 17, 2016 7:19 am

congrats on keepin it stock, nice to see a real piece of history movin down the road w/the rest…
8)
Last edited by chad on Sat Nov 19, 2016 8:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #6 by 65 Mustang » Thu Nov 17, 2016 9:09 am

Hello. Thanks for info everyone. David, it's funny you mentioned increasing he idle speed. When I first got the car I was having stalling issues when I came to a stop. This caused me to increase idle speed. At the time I did it because it stopped the car from stalling. I had no idea I was compensating for a missing accelerator pump in carb. Eventually I want to switch over to manual transmission (I've been gathering up the parts) so it will be the right carb for that application.

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #7 by CZLN6 » Thu Nov 17, 2016 10:56 am

HOwdy Back:

Hey '65 Mustang, are your sure that this is the original OEM carb for your car? Just a thought.

Adios, David
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http://www.falcon6handbook.com/

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #8 by 65 Mustang » Thu Nov 17, 2016 1:32 pm

Well, since the car has most likely changed hands many times before I got it, I can't say for sure. It is definitely an autolite 1100 with an svc and one diaphragm. The car used to be manual but somewhere along the line an auto trans was put in. It seems likely that they just left the original carb not realizing you needed a slightly different carb for auto trans. I was just puzzled by the slight differences I was seeing in various pics of carb, especially the vent rod. Some have them, some don't. Didn't know if that was intentional or did the rod just get lost over time and people ran the carb without it with no noticeable difference.

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #9 by chad » Thu Nov 17, 2016 5:47 pm

mighta been what my garage buddies of the time named the carb "pull off" item ...
:lol:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #10 by Econoline » Thu Nov 17, 2016 10:27 pm

Any dead spots running the 1100? Does it run better on some day's when the air pressure is higher? I know ppl seem to push these carbs, and if you want to keep it all oem I understand that. But I'd be remiss if I didn't tell you what I thought. I think the scv 1100 is a pos and you'd be hard pressed to find a replacement that's worse than what you already have. The thing it's got going for it is that it's got to be one of the simplest carburetors ever made. But responsiveness is paramount with any carburetor imo. Some people have seem to have good luck with them
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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #11 by chad » Thu Nov 17, 2016 11:00 pm

Glad 2 hear some 1 (U bro!) say that BUT don't 4get to add that the 2100 might also B da best ever made…
8)
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #12 by CZLN6 » Fri Nov 18, 2016 4:27 pm

Howdy Back All:

I have to give my opinion about the scat libiled lowly 1100. First it was designed to be cheaply made[FoMoCo problem], second it has a relatively weak accelerator pump. Other than that it is very similar to other one barrels in durability and reliability, but cheaper and easier to rebuild, and somewhat more tuner friendly than Carter YF and RBS, Holley 1940 and #1946 and Weber one barrel carbs.

My experience is that many of the so-called carb problems are more than likely ignition problems. The connection between the 1100 carb and the Load-O-Matic distributor is a source of many of the carb problems- from sticking or broken advance springs springs, a leaking or ruptured diaphragm and vacuum leaks, to bad OEM plug wires, to spark plugs. So, any time you might be assessing any carb start by making sure that the ignition system is in good shape and working as it should and that there are no vacuum leaks.

Back to the 1100 the most frequent problems are related to dirt and crud. A clean air and inline gas filters are a start to remedying those problems. But, in addition, remember that the choke is sucking unfiltered air through the exhaust manifold to the choke coil and into the carb. This happened with all one barrels until the advent of electric chokes. A regular and thorough cleaning, on the inside and outside of the carb goes a long ways to keep the carb happy.

The accelerator pump is probably the weakest part of the 1100s. It is relatively easy to diagnose and a standard part of any rebuild.

Lastly, the 1100 is an easy carb to rebuild. Caution, Do not over tighten any of the screws going into the soft metal of the carb body. Stripped screw holes is not an uncommon problem. That goes for the fuel inlet as well. Given that I'd have to say that another problem with the 1100 is human caused. I apologize, in advance.

Adios, David
Last edited by CZLN6 on Sat Nov 19, 2016 12:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #13 by 65 Mustang » Fri Nov 18, 2016 6:29 pm

Excellent info. Had no idea unfiltered air was coming in through the choke. Can the later model autolites (68-on) work with the load-o-matic distributer?

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #14 by CZLN6 » Sat Nov 19, 2016 12:59 am

Howdy Back:

No. The LoM needs the modified vacuum signal from the SCV to function properly. Some have run manifold vacuum to the distributor, but that does not allow the LoM to function properly; and a '68 non-SCV 1100 would be down on CFM also. Not what you want.

Adios, David
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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #15 by 65 Mustang » Sat Nov 19, 2016 8:15 am

That's what I figured. Since the bore size on these carbs are all the same and the Venturi size is determined by adjustable inserts, can you simply place a 1.20 v insert into an autolite meant for a 170 ci with a a 1.10 v insert? I ask this because I do have another autolite around but I suspect it came from a 170. It does have a SCV. Do they even sell the inserts anywhere? If I can't get them, I guess my question is pointless.

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #16 by CZLN6 » Sat Nov 19, 2016 11:38 am

Howdy:

Q-"can you simply place a 1.20 v insert into an autolite meant for a 170 ci with a a 1.10 v insert?"
A- Theoritically, yes. The plastic inserts are attached some way that makes removing them intact and undamaged is next to impossible. And I have yet to find a source for replacement venturi inserts. A few years ago Pony Carburetors offered a "new" 1100 with a 1.29 venture insert. I inquired as to where they got their parts but never got an answer. They are out of business now.

It may be possible to carefully hone out the inner diameter of the venturi insert. I have not tried that. The best option is to find a 1969 1101 from a Mustang with a 250 engine. they are scarce but a great upgrade. If you need an 1101 with a SCV, find a 1963-64 Ford car with a 223 six. these carbs are rated at 210 cfm.

Adios, David
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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #17 by 65 Mustang » Sat Nov 19, 2016 12:17 pm

Alright. Thanks for all the great info David. The first thing I'll do is measure the Venturi size on the old carb that I have. Maybe I'll get lucky and it's a 1.20v. Now I have to go find my vernier calipers.

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #18 by Humpbackshooter » Thu Nov 24, 2016 7:03 pm

CZLN6.......I too, have a 200 with the 1100 on it. In reading all the post that I can, I have to ask why in some of your post that you say that the "exhaust tube" for the auto choke is unfilter air? Is that not air that's been pulled in through the carb breather and into the chambers , mixed with gas, compressed, etc, and is being exhausted out the "log"? In thinking....I guess your saying that because its been down the path of the mixture of gas and stuff. Would this be correct? Hope your think that there is no stupid questions.....only stupid mistakes :beer:
Thanks,
Hump

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #19 by chad » Thu Nov 24, 2016 10:49 pm

Humpster:
not 2 answ 4 him but (actually I guess I really am)…
there is a sm alu tube that extents upward frm the exh manifold to the choke housing (round black bakelite at back - external to carb) in oe situations. The tube was originally covered w/"white cloth" (asbestose) to keep hands frm getting burnt. This is NOT part of the atomization of fuel to combust in the chambers. It is a channel for hot air to drift up into the coil like 'flat strip' choke spring & heat it to draw open the choke as the engine warms up. Abt $10 bought as a replacement kit it interested. I use an ele 1 wired to my alternater's stator lug. This keeps the drawn up air clean cuz none is needed/used or even present. It's use is complicated (in a minor way) but the use of headers - so, gonzo! on mine...

Alternatively some models have a 'hot water' (rather than 'hot air') choke. Those have rubber hose which brings the same H2O as radiator/heater core use to underneath the carb. & back 2 maintain a 'closed system'.

HTH
Keep talkin...
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #20 by Humpbackshooter » Fri Nov 25, 2016 9:50 am

Thanks Chad for your response. Check that on the tube to the choke. Mine was also a aluminum tube but over the yrs, it had broke off right at the exhaust manifold. So I took a piece 1/4" copper and redid it. As far as the warm air that travels through this tube, its exhaust gases. Correct? That being said....this is air that has traveled in from the carb, ( through the breather ) and when through the atomization process.
I guess what I'm thinking is that......this is air that started off as "filtered air", but becomes dirty as it goes through the combustion process. CZLN6 said that its unfiltered air....True to a point. It is unfiltered air as it travels "back" through the carb again after going through the choke.
Please don't think that I'm trying to stir anything up. Its just a play on words I guess.
Thanks,
Hump

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #21 by bubba22349 » Fri Nov 25, 2016 11:12 am

Humpbackshooter wrote:Thanks Chad for your response. Check that on the tube to the choke. Mine was also a aluminum tube but over the yrs, it had broke off right at the exhaust manifold. So I took a piece 1/4" copper and redid it. As far as the warm air that travels through this tube, its exhaust gases. Correct? That being said....this is air that has traveled in from the carb, ( through the breather ) and when through the atomization process.
I guess what I'm thinking is that......this is air that started off as "filtered air", but becomes dirty as it goes through the combustion process. CZLN6 said that its unfiltered air....True to a point. It is unfiltered air as it travels "back" through the carb again after going through the choke.
Please don't think that I'm trying to stir anything up. Its just a play on words I guess.
Thanks,
Hump


Sorry Hump, that's not entirely correct, the stock Ford exhaust manifold is suppose to have a steel sleeve tube that air is pulled through, then the stock (also steel) heat stove pipe is pressed into it to connect it up to the carb's choke cover. So unfiltered air is drawn from below the exhaust manafold by a controlled vaccum leak up into the choke cover. So now if the exhaust manifold's inter tube is in good condition this is a totally separate system of external or outside air warmed by the heat of the exhaust for the carb's choke. And working as it was designed to you also don't want any exhaust gases to be going into the carb's choke assembly. Good luck :nod: Edited
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #22 by Humpbackshooter » Fri Nov 25, 2016 11:27 am

Bubbba.....are you saying that there not suppose to be a pipe that is stuck into the exhaust manifold? That there is a steel tube/sleeve connected to the side (under) of the exhaust and the 2nd pipe is stuck into it and goes to the choke. I was thinking that the hole that's in the exhaust ( a 1/4" ) was where the stove pipe was suppose to fit. I have mine wrong then. :oopsie:

Hump

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #23 by bubba22349 » Fri Nov 25, 2016 11:39 am

Hump, yes there is suppose to be a seperate tube running through the inside of the exhaust manifold from the top and out the bottom. Without seeing a picture of how yours is hooked up it still could be right, depending if you have the stove pipe that's connected to the choke Is pressed into that orginal internal tube. If your exhaust manifolds internal tube is missing or its damaged by rot caused by the exhaust gases (this is a common problem with these decades old parts) and could be allowing exhaust gases into your choke stove pipe. Then you could make a new one to install in the manafold, use an aftermarket choke stove kit, or coil it around the outside of the exhaust manifold and then plugging the old manafold hole. Or in the case of a set of headers coil the choke stove pipe around one of the tubes. Be sure to use the insulation sleeve over the tube too as this helps keep the stove tube from cooling off too quickly (especially in the colder weather) which could cause the carb's choke blade to be partially closed instead of fully open. Good luck :nod: Edited
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #24 by Humpbackshooter » Fri Nov 25, 2016 1:14 pm

Thanks Bubba. I'll have to check that out and see. The hole is right under the carb. In the middle of the log. I bet its like you said. Damaged or not there. I was thinking that exhaust gases was used to heat up the choke. That being said...CZLN is right that its not filtered. MY Bad. You can lean a lot of stuff here. :thanks: :beer:

Hump

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #25 by chad » Fri Nov 25, 2016 1:48 pm

"...You can lean a lot of stuff here…."
Even more here:
Performance Handbook from Matt at Vintage Inlines .com ($20?)
/AND/
the "Classic Inlines archive" on the Index page of any forum of this site. After a purchase of the Handbook, while waiting for delivery, Y not not peruse the ford6 archive (of it's original sponsor) for free? Some day U may B outta Qs if U f/u w/these 2!
:twisted:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #26 by CZLN6 » Fri Nov 25, 2016 5:56 pm

HOwdy:

Whoa! Hold on. The hot air comes from a tube like hole cast into/thru the exhaust manifold. The tube to the carb is inserted into the top of the cast-in hole, The bottom of the hole is open to the underside, and the air down there. NOT exhaust gas. Air is drawn in through the hole, passes through the hot exhaust manifold cast in tube and into the choke bi-metal coil bakelite housing by engine vacuum. It is unfiltered air. So, depending on circumstances that air can be somewhat dirty or very dirty unfiltered. Not one of FoMoCos better ideas.

If someone could post a photo of an exhaust manifold that would be helpful.

Some, tuners have attached a copper tube to the underside of the cast hole and run it to the underside of the air cleaner housing, so as to draw filtered air from there. I personally have never had much luck getting a tube to stay in the bottom side hole. Like Hump, I preferred to switch to an electric choke and eliminate the hot air tube.

The hot water tube passing hot water thru the plate under the carb has nothing to do with the choke. It is there to add heat to the carb to prevent carb icing, but that's another story.

I hope that helps.

Adios, David
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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #27 by Econoline » Fri Nov 25, 2016 8:32 pm

David, I seem to remember reading about stuffing a bit of brass wool in the bottom of the hole in the manifold. Have you heard of this and do you think it's a good idea? The last thing I'd want to do it suck burnt brass into a vacuum hole but steel wool seems like a worse idea.
It ain't gonna fix itself

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #28 by Humpbackshooter » Sat Nov 26, 2016 6:42 am

Thanks David for that response. That is where mine is connected but I believe I have exhaust gases coming out of it too. ( IF that is true....then I have a busted/broken small log.) I thought that was the correct place for it. I'll have to check it out and see. I'll try and post a pic too.
Thanks,
Phil

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #29 by Humpbackshooter » Sat Nov 26, 2016 6:49 am

Chad......got the handbook bout the time AZcoupe passed. I tried to get it from the web site, but thinks were kinda in a mess. Ended up getting from someone else. And yes there's a lot of info in it. Just got to try and get it all straight. Not put the cart before the horse. :D

Thanks,
Hump/Phil

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #30 by chad » Sat Nov 26, 2016 11:04 am

"...the cart before the horse…"
either way, U can still go down the rd.
Hope U found Matt 4 the "Handbook".

Don't C any reference 2 da 'choke stove tube" in it but the pic, sketches & verbage will let U know
"no connection there". Now the PVC system has a" sorta connection there".

Don't 4get to ck the Classic Inlines archive on any Index page 4 this site. Find that, go to appropreate
pages (carb, exhaust) absorbe all U can & U to will move up to "Official Shade Tree Mechanic I" certification.
I'm hopin to achieve the #II rating but have so lill $ 4 parts it will take along time to achieve!

Keep talkin, we'll keep watchin...
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #31 by CZLN6 » Sat Nov 26, 2016 11:32 am

Howdy All:

Hump- yes, if you are getting exhaust gas from the hot air tube to the choke your exhaust manifolds hot air transfer tube is defective- broken, worn away or ?. Exhaust manifolds are prone to cracking. For safety, plug the top and bottom holes to prevent CO2 from getting into the interior of the car. Bubba described several other ways to get hot air to the choke.

The hot air transfer tube is cast iron and is cast into the exhaust manifold log.

Econoline- I've never tried using steel or brass wool as a filter element in the bottom of the hot air transfer tube so I can't give a difinitive answer, but strange things do happen. Like you, I'd be concerned about drawing small pieces of the material into the carb.

This has been a great "roam around" thread. It started out about the 1100, went to LoM and SCVs, Cleaning the carb, then to hot air chokes, all part of the lowly Autolite 1100. Several of the issues would have been good threads all by them selves. Anyway, it's been a fun ride and got this old noggin remembering and recalling stuff from way back at the beginning. And, going forward, a reference to the hot air transfer tube in the stock OEM cast iron exhaust manifold may appear in a future issue of the Handbook.

Adios, David
co-author of the Falcon Performance Handbook
http://www.falcon6handbook.com/

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chad
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Location: Lawrence Swamp, S. Amherst, MA

Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #32 by chad » Sat Nov 26, 2016 7:41 pm

Yazzz zir.
My take away is "use the ele choke".
(in most carb apps).
Yours?
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

jimlj66
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Location: Evanston Wy

Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #33 by jimlj66 » Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:15 pm

I'll throw in my two cents here, although it may not be worth that much.
Things I've learned on the 1100.

As David stated, often the "problem" with the carburetor is ignition related.

These carburetors need to be cleaned, rebuilt and properly adjusted to work right.

The linkage running the accelerator pump must be properly adjusted/bent so it will start the fuel squirt as soon as the throttle plate starts to open or you will have stall problems.

The choke must be working properly or your car will never run right. In my case I found the tube running from the exhaust manifold plugged with crud. It could never pass hot air to the bi-metal coil so the choke would never open/close properly no matter how it was adjusted.

My '66 Mustang w/California emissions came with a non SCV carburetor and duel advance distributor.

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chad
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Re: Autolite 1100 question

Post #34 by chad » Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:43 pm

Hey Jimij!
How's dat bronk runnin?
Sno in ur per of WY yet?
:twisted:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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