What size turbo do I need?

Dantheman67

New member
I did a complete engine overhaul for my 67. It's a 1978 200 block with a 250 head. The internals are all new but not forged. I'm running a 264-110 camshaft and a Weber 38 carb. Long story short, this build was no where near the horsepower rating I was expecting. It sounds like a v8 and drinks gas like one. I'm done fighting with the NA build and giving the I6 one last shot before swapping to an 8. I was curious on thoughts of what size turbo I could run on my build. I want to try and run around 15 lbs max and not struggle to hit that. It has to be big enough so it won't put to much stress on the internals and small enough so I'm not starting to build boost at 5k rpm. Any recommendations? I'll be going with the on3 brand.

P.s. I know what all goes into turbocharging the engine so please don't lecture me on how to do it. I just want to know the size I should run on my particular set up. Thanks everybody!
 
Dantheman67":119hwec9 said:
I did a complete engine overhaul for my 67. It's a 1978 200 block with a 250 head. The internals are all new but not forged. I'm running a 264-110 camshaft and a Weber 38 carb. Long story short, this build was no where near the horsepower rating I was expecting. It sounds like a v8 and drinks gas like one. I'm done fighting with the NA build and giving the I6 one last shot before swapping to an 8. I was curious on thoughts of what size turbo I could run on my build. I want to try and run around 15 lbs max and not struggle to hit that. It has to be big enough so it won't put to much stress on the internals and small enough so I'm not starting to build boost at 5k rpm. Any recommendations? I'll be going with the on3 brand.

P.s. I know what all goes into turbocharging the engine so please don't lecture me on how to do it. I just want to know the size I should run on my particular set up. Thanks everybody!

turbo sizing is not a one size fits all sorta thing, so many factors, how you will drive it, etc... And 15 psi on stock pistons will end badly... Also, your cam has an awful lot of overlap for turbo (for reference, I am running a 256-114 Schneider in my turbo build, using a T3 turbo from an old Saab, hoping for 5-7 psi on my stock pistons)

So tell us more about what you want to achieve...
 
welcome!

have U been 2 da ex-spirts on our turbo forum?
Look @ the home page, click on that listing...
 
turbo sizing is not a one size fits all sorta thing, so many factors, how you will drive it, etc... And 15 psi on stock pistons will end badly... Also, your cam has an awful lot of overlap for turbo (for reference, I am running a 256-114 Schneider in my turbo build, using a T3 turbo from an old Saab, hoping for 5-7 psi on my stock pistons)

So tell us more about what you want to achieve...[/quote]


I just want to make a measly 300hp. I didn't think it would be that hard to achieve since I built it so much. I'm barely making over 100hp with all of the mods I have. So can I not turbo with this cam? I didn't know that mattered. I know it's not a one size fits all, that's why I'm asking. I was thinking an on3 60mm.
 
Dantheman67":3rp8g03j said:
How much boost can you run on stock pistons? And is my camshaft too big to turbo?
Not nearly that much! I am hoping to get 180HP and am worried I should have bought forged...

As for the cam, it is not that it is "too big", turbo cams have a much wider LSA then a NA cam, (114vs110 in this case) and really that cam would not work that well for a turbo application, however, you could get an equally "big" cam with a wider LSA (talk to Schneider, they will grind whatever you need, and can give much better cam advice then I)...
 
Basically, lobe center is largly irrelevant, as all Fords turbos used a less than ideal 109 lobe center.

The main issues are making one carb supply even fuel air mix to all six cylinders.

You always get incipient detonation, and that goes undetected, giving rise to this


detonationdamagecrop.jpg


You do need at least a bigger than T03 60 Series turbo if your 15 pounding it. See Lincs' 200's sizing chart.
/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=24859
Linc's 200":dsl7wjr5 said:
Turbo is a Garrett brand (AiResearch) that is an ACTUAL Garrett brand turbo that I bought on ebay, not some Chinese "Super T-70" junk that ssautochrome sells. It is S-3 Trim compressor, with "O" trim exhaust and .68 A/R turbine housing.

I used this guide:

113_0312_turbo_15_z.jpg


from this article:



and was LUCKY to find just that on ebay, for $275, brand new in the Garret box.

You need to read the forums on this site for THREE MONTHS before posting any questions:



There is so much info there, it is staggering. A lot of it is hardcore, so stay in the shadows - - look, watch, listen, and learn - and SEARCH before posting new questions.



Also, a long time ago I bought the "Turbochargers" book from Hugh MacInnes.

[/img]

Knowledge is power...and doing your homework ahead of time will help tremendously. An ounce of prevention is wrth a pound of cure.

Boost creates a psychotic air fuel response, and Weber 2-bbl carbs feeding six cylinders from one 22 inch long 1.6 inch diameter log with six 90 degree bends are the worst known to man system to tune. Weber carbs are also air calibrated more than just about any other carb system, the Variable Venturi 2700 and 7200 from Ford 1977 to 1991 were too. Boy are they AKWARD!,


Specific to Webers, they require step wise idle, progression/transition and, lastly main system calibrations. Like this.
DCOEchart.jpg



Unlike triple Weber DCOE 45's, they also have power valves because they are not port on port, independent runner systems. And that means the power valve spikes fuel delivery as well

And you don't even start calibration until you do six thingsl



Firstly, the ignition settings for the planned power out put are cast is stone. A turbo will have a flat advance curve, with static idel at as much as 16 degrees, somtimes 20. A Durspark II has a 5 degree cranking advance that then drops back if you wire it right. Then look for 25 degrees total at about 2800 rpm to avoi the Big Bang.

Secondly, the needle and seats are uniformly unreliable and normally undersupply, creating the major starvation issue which people think is a carb calibration jet size matter. You have to frequently assure yourself that its not the main neelde and seat by keeping a really good one, as a checker. Renew them with a 2.5 needle of name brand quality if the checking needle and seat runs better than the inservice one. Pierces are likely to be the best quality.

Third, the float set up is real finicity, and you have to know the differences between the five types of 38 DG series floats and bleed back systems. Often the economiser boss has incorrectly machined slots, whic ensures the carb becoems and irratic pile of dog doo doo to tune.

Fourth, the fuel pressure was controlled by bleed back on all post 1973 to 1992 2-bbl Weber European, British and Australian Fords, but not so in US Holley Weber Fords. Bleed back as a means of maintaining fuel flow but reducing pressure to 2.5 to 4.2 psi is not understood at all in the USA. I've tried to educate on it. Actually, Ford USA used bleed back in the air controlled Variable Venturi 2700 and 7200 carbs, and it works via the Trip Minder Vapor valve, which has a bleed back drilling in the 1986 Areostar's, and the part is still around. No matter, most 38 DG Webers come with a bleed back line, and the Jeep guys hook it up to the common 232 cubic inch in line 1 or 2-bbl six cylinder fuel filter.


You can use Mr Gasket, Aerometive, or another kind of Hobbs switch, but you have to control fuel pressure without flow restriction, and on a turbo, you have to spike the fuel pressure at no more than 4.2 psi per pound of boost. There are a number of ways of boost referencing the float bowl by

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... -Fantastic

Post #8

HPIM4188.jpg


http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=121925

Using carbs because i have them, No mod rings, look at the picture of my carbs that turbobaja posted, from that an fitting a 3/8" hardline goes into my boost stream to catch a good flow of pressurized air.


Fifth, the air correctors and jets and needle and seats always ingest crud, and create irregular running.


Sixth, emulsion tubes (well tubes) control the transition spike delivery. You can select other ones to control air fuel ratio to get the right kind of flat or flat fuel curve. David Vizard describes it here:-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pkFSA_rRFI

Seventh, withall 38 Webers, but even more so turbo Webers, the Positive Crank case Ventilation system has to replicate the factory Cologne V6; the Wagner adjustable PCV valve is a pretty good imitator of the German Cologne baffled and balanced system. Get it wrong, and a Weber 38 with a Hybrid T04 Sierra Coworth RS 500 turbo will surge and require detuning, and suck in a lot of octane killing oil which will have you needing Hi Test with an octane booster.

http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/95321?page=2
Being doing some more research into the engine set up etc and found a few simple thing's i didn't know.
The pipe from the air filter feeds straight into the head cover and then into the turbo, why would that be?

The top hat thgat we are talking about has a mesh inside, like so and then found that it has a tiny dump valve fitted inside the left hand tube, so quiet i never hear it!



I haven't managed to get it up in the air yet so no pics of the manifolds but i will put some up!

Been looking at charge coolers compared to an intercooler, from what i have read a charge cooler would be best but for cost reason's i'm going to go for an intercooler and try and get a box for the carb made up.




The cam duration of the BroadSpeed Essex 218 to 230 hp net V6 2994 cc engine was 256 degrees lift at lash and 363 thou lift on a 1.47:1 rocker with solid lifters. 109 lobe center on an 7.5:1 compression ratio engine with one 1.07 Weber 38 mm carb. Stock engines were about 138 hp net. Totally stock engine with a carb box, electronic igntion, and IIRC, 9 pounds of boost. Holset 3LD turbo. Compression down from 8.9:1 stock. Known as a very poorly matched engine stock, with poor castings, Heron type pistons which were heavy and hit the valves on high lift cams, rocker valve stud stability problems, crank pin and big end oiling problems that actually went away when the engine was absolutely thrashed. A turbo Essex V6 in a TVR 3000 or Capri Bullet was an exceptional package, as subtle as an Uzzi at an Italian Wedding...but with pure 302/351 style GRUNT.

The cam duration of the Cologne 188 hp net 2794 cc engine was 276 degrees lift at lash and about 388 thou lift on a stock 9.2:1 compression ratio engine with one 1.07 Solex 38 mm carb ( a French Weber DGAS 38 in essence). 109 lobe center. Stock engines were 135 hp net. Totally stock engine with mild compresion drop, and carb, MAN air filter, and 5.5 pounds of boost. The boost was lImited so the compression ratio could stay the same.

It was a sustained 2.8 Aftermarket Cologne V6 option from 1981 to 1987, via Zaksped, Janspeed, Tickford, and Turbo Tecnics, but was Mechancial, or EFI from 1985 onwards.


This Cologne Turbo engine was a real screamer too, and in two continents (the British Isle and Europe) where gasoline was always three times the price of a US gallon, they didn't sell very well, but were exceptional engines with a turbo on them.





FordCapri28Turbo188hp206lb-ftCologneV6_zps47c37db3.jpg


Both had seamigly over sized Garret T4 size turbos (the Broadspeed Holset 3LD is just as large) and had pretty much the same cylinder head 110 cfm CFM at 363 to 388 lift 28" H20 cfm figures for both the 183 cube 3.0 Litre and 171 cube 2.8 Litreengines.

Not a patch on the cubic inches of a 200 Ford, and no where near the cfm of the better large log heads, and way below the 165 cfm plus of a good 2V or Classic inlines head.

So basically, conventional theortical cam duration lobe center information is all rubbish on an airflow starved Ford six cylinder engine, as it is on any OLD overhead valve Ford V6.


As long as the intake manifold doesn't starve like Lincs200 did under almost 20 pounds of boost, and you use good quality pistons with the right ring gap, you can run any cam you like. That rules out Sivolite HSC 2.3 pistons.

IIRC, on the Ford Tickford Capri 2800 turbo, the upraed Cologne 205 hp Tickford V6s, some of the aftermarket cams used the later Electronic Fuel Injection version which had 114 lobe centers, but they didn't need it unless they had the later EECIV fuel injection.

Source:

Ford of Britians English Dagenam Essex built 60 Degree V4/V6 cams:

http://camshaftsuppliers.com/fordessexcamshafts.html

Ford of Germany's Cologne built 60 degree V4/V6 cams:

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... an-changes

Stock Cologne V6 of the 1.8/2.0/2.3 and later 1985 2.4 EFI were 264 to 268 duration and 380 thou lift cam engines, while the Saab V4 had 283 degrees duration and 380 thou lift. The 2.8 was halfway in between, but its a LOT of duration.

1972-1974 2.6 and 1974-1989 2.8 and 2.9 EFI's were 276 degrees intake /278 degrees exhaust with 388 thou intake lift and 382 thou exhaust lift

http://www.cosworth.hu/content/hasznos/V6 Engines/v6 engines.pdf


Camshaft specs were a lot like the Cologne Pinto 2000 and 280E Mercedes Benz engines:

Solid lifters, huge duration, low lift with low rocker ratios, and they worked just horriably with Standard gas with an 8.2:1 compression ratio when designed for Super gasoline and 9.2:1 compression.


An example. The US 280E lost 38 to 52% of its power just by the compression ratio drop required to run 87 Octane and pass the NOx requirements verses the European engines. Exactly the same with the 2.0 Pinto and 2.8 Cologne. That's a HUGE loss.

Aftermarket US cams had rip off Small Block Ford 255/302/351 intake lobe profiles of 244, 256, 264, 266, and 270 duration on the intakes, and gave better results than the stock 2.8 cams.

http://www.compcams.com/catalog/144_145.html


260 and 264 Racer Walsh cams were similar to Isky F4 260 degree/425 lift and F66 264/ 448 grinds. Better results with lesss duration, but more lift and 50 thou intensity.

http://www.racerwalsh.zoovy.com/product/RWA6411/2628-V6-stage-1-Camshaft-RWA-6411.html
http://www.racerwalsh.zoovy.com/product/RWA6412/2628-V6-stage-2-Camshaft-RWA-6412.html

The last Eight (8) aftermarket cams cams don't go up on stock duration very much because Cologne cams are solid lifter, and need more lift and compression and lobe center to improve power, but low end torque is always missing

http://www.kentcams.com/images/manf-images/camshaft-12.jpg


From ages ago...

Lasly, http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=69602
xctasy":dsl7wjr5 said:
Yeah, the Motorcraft 5200 or 2150 will love a nice turbo.

The advantage is that a return line carb can be boost referenced, and you'll not have to modify it at all except put good gaskets into it.

The Holley Weber branded Motorcraft 5200 series has a return line, also found on the 38DGAS used on the 2.8 Colonge engines.

You just need to follow the Essex 60 degree Broadspeed, via a sealed box
http://www.capripower.co.uk/boardold/lofiversion/index.php?t4032.html

or the Cologne 60 degree Zakspeed/Janspeed turbo set ups.
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums...bo188hp206lb-ftCologneV6VIEW3_zps48a1b624.jpg

See also http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=readersrides&action=print&thread=95321


A fuel regulator on the return line can ensure the carb is under differential boost. Does10's describes how to boost reference the ppower valve.

Have a go...

In the words of others

http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=11371

If you are planning to use the Weber 32/62, in a blow through application,, you will need to use a pressure regulator with boost compensation on it for sure, fuel must stay 3.5 PSI ahead of boost. Fuel pump MUST have good volume also, as do supply lines. You will need to run a return line to the tank, with a restriction in it. Start now to track down a NITROFIL float for the Weber! It came on the 5200 series carb used on Pinto's, Capris, etc, licenced to Ford. This will not collapse under boost.

I modded my stock vacuum advance to be boost retarded, and, re worked the advance curve.

Methanol injection as a supplemental charge cooling is good, as is a good size oil cooler and better radiator. My system is self pressurizing, using a Hobbs switch for triggering it.

IF>>>you are going to do a blow through, you will need a box built for the carb to be sealed into. If you are going to do a suck through, that has it's own set of parameters to be delt with.

Stay small with your turbo choice, as you will have a much more drivable and resposive car overall.

Plan for a wastegate and compressor blow off valve also. You should be able to find a nice blow off at the wreckers, off a Talon, they are more than adequate for our needs.

And lastly, the 5200 is a 32/36 Weber, and see this kit

http://www.turbogemini.com/Blow Through Carby Kit.htm

and finally

http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forced-induction-7/blow-through-carburetor-turbo-setup-95522/
 
Oh, 256 and 264 degress and 435 thou lift hydraulic cam with 1.73 rockers and 109 degree lobe centers. 217, 255 hp net.

Mike Vine used a stock 256 carb or X flow EFI cam reground to 270 degrees, still on a 109 lobe center for up to 348 hp net.

There is a metric laden article festooned in this lot beneath...probably why no one bothers to do proper research. Metrics really stand in the way of common six cylinder turbo knowledge...


Divide by 11, Multiply by 7 to make km/h proper mph.

Divide by 10, Multiply by 15 to make Killer Watts proper US NET Horsepower.

For fuel consumption...Liters per 100 km to US mpg http://calculator-converter.com/l_100km ... 100_km.php



US mpg to km/l http://www.vangeyn.net/mpg/

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=75514

xctasy":1xkr4lnl said:
Gila-Lad to see you!

My 7.8 liter 475 cubic inch 2011 Isuzu FSR 700 bread delivery truck puts out 240 hp and 528 lb-ft with about 9 pounds of boost. 15 tons helps eliminate its ability to do 15 second 1/4 miles...

In your case, even with a sqwiff of boost, torque skyrockets in those engines any time you do head, cam, induction and header work. Glad its got solid mounts, an 8.8" axle and 4w70 auto...it'll freeken need it all!

Get a load of how Ford Australia responded when the aftermarket made turbo X-flow 4.1 kits like this...


aitturboxe1984.jpg



From 1983 to 1988, CDT, Hall Turbocharging, HKS, Advanced Induction Systems and Mike Vine added 4.1 turbo X-flow versions with carbs or EFI with anywhere from 217, 255 or up to 348 hp. At $3000 to $4000 a kit, verses the old $750 RPO tick at your friendly Ford dealer for a 188 hp 4.9 or 200 hp 5.8 Cleveland V8 option, there were few takers. The 4.9 put out 255 lb-ft, the 5.8, 306 lb-ft. The new 149hp optional EFI cost a huge 1030 bucks over the 131 hp X-flow 4.1 with 2-bbl Weber. Performance for I-6 Fords became a costly option for sure. The 1983 Falcon GL EFI had trouble breaking the 17 second quarter mile barrier. The old auto 4.9 could do it easily. The manula 5.8 could drop high15's, low 16's. The turbo 4.1's were able to do 16s in automatic LTD's, and high 14's in four speed Falcons.

http://mikevineturbochargers.com.au/pdf ... rticle.pdf

IMGP9659.jpg


According to Fords warranty claims and engineering people, the 250 X-flow after market turbo conversions made peak power and torque that could potentially destroy any production gearbox and axle combination when towing a braked 3500 pound trailer combination.. The Australian aftermarket had trouble locking X-flow 250 engine torque below 400 lb-ft. In 1986, Phil Scott from Wheels magazine announced that Ford Australia refused to cover waranties on T-5 and even AIT's Borg Warner 35 with Torington roller upgrade. What was now exported to the US as the GM F-car Chev Camaro/Firebird/TA G52 spec 9 bolt axles, and used behind 248, 275, and 295 hp Improved Performance 304 and 308 Holdens wasn't covered either. The T5 gearboxes, okay for Mustangs and the Borg Warner type 35 and 42, okay for 1969-1972 304 and 345 AMC V8'Ss, weren't strong enough behind turbo 4.1 engines.

The reason GM USA used the common proprietry Aussie Ford/Chrysler made BTR M78 axles in Camaros from 1986-93, Firebirds from 1985-93, and Trans-Ams from 1983-93 was as an updgrade for the 5.7 liter V8's which were too tough for the aftermarket Dana 34 and 36 and 10 bolt corporate axles. Valiants down here even had the axles behind 318, 340 and 360 LA V8's.

Since Ford had used it for 16 years behind the 4.7 or 4.9 Fairlane and for three years behind the 5.8 LTD, it was good enough for GM USA. In so doing, GM exhibited more faith in a standard Ford spec axle behind a 350 TPi than Ford Austrlia did with an aftermarket 4.1 Turbo.

Perhaps that's a clue to what a turbo X-flow 4.1 torque can do to the driveline.

Ford was okay with having the 306 lb-ft of a 4-bbl 200 hp 351c flowing through a 7.625 or 7.875" 9 bolt axle, but not a turbo 250!

Logistically, it took Ford Australia another 20 years to get tougher Tremec, BTR/Ion gearboxes and Dana M86 axles in place for a potential 432 lb-ft of 10 psi overboost from the 2008 model year , but the first factory 4.0 turbo had only 6 psi of boost, and the torque was modulated downwards for 3 years to 330 lb-ft, and for another 3 years untill 2008 when it was modulated to 393 lb-ft., with an extra 39 lb-ft possiable in favorable circumstances.
 
If you figure an engine volumetric Efficiency of 75% (probably too generous) at 5000 rpm with an intercooler efficiency at 50%
you may get around 260 hp with 15lbs of boost with an airflow of 28lbs/min.
That equates to a turbo with a 47mm compressor inducer at best.
 
In the 70s AK Miller was at the forefront of turbocharging..For a large log 200 he used a to4b-S trim that is 1.904" about 48mm on the compressor inducer on stock unmodified engines..Same size that Linc used on his stock engine....For my 266 cam, larger 1.470 exhaust valve, cleaned up bowl, head, weekend engine, he sold me the 300 stock engine turbo which was a V trim 2.180" about 55mm..That cam was shifted at 6500 and went thru the traps at 6800.
New build I am stepping up to a 66mm turbo and cammed to be shifted at 7000.
 
Ak Miller, MacInnes and most early pioneers were using Draw-Thru Turbo and Carb' setups with available/usable Turbos with Carbs/mechanical FI (like in Xstasy's pic). Current variety of available-affordable turbos, retail EFI and Blow-Thru Carbs' help get closer to the numbers you want.

Buick, Olds and Pontiac developed Draw-Thru carbd' turbos through the 60's. 231cid V6 used a Garrett TBO3 with special/odd turbo-specific Quadrajet 4Bbl. Carbon sealed turbo and modified PV circuit carb approached consumer reliability but the Blow-Thru EFI Grand National's/GNX reign in race history.

Buick Draw-Thru Turbo/Quadrajet setup on small block 250 ran great until fun ended at @ 20 pounds of boost.

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=75598




... do the math then build what you can afford.
 
We'll talk turbo sizing in a minute, but
The main issues are making one carb supply even fuel air mix to all six cylinders.

You always get incipient detonation, and that goes undetected, giving rise to this


90% of people who use the Weber 38 on a log head don't get the results they expect because two double whammy things

1. ....the 22 inch long, 1.6" diameter intake has six compounding 90 degree bends that ruins fuel air ratio. The cylinder to cylinder efficeny is unbalanced, the cfm flow to each cylinder isn't the same, and the air fuel ratio as measured by a six pyrometers off the six ports is totally uneven from off idle to wide open throttle.


2. Because the Weber tuning issues haven't been addressed, just running a Holley 350 or 500 cfm 2-bbl or any of the Autolite 2100 or Motrcraft 2150' 2-bbls is a huge step up. They are fat fueled, non air calibrated carbs that don't rely on emusified air like Webers. Adress the seven Weber tuning issues above, and it works just as well.


After a proper Holley or Autolite/Motocraft upgrade, you cut off the log, and weld up a Hogan style sheet metal intake. or get a Classic Inlines head and intake.


A Weber 38 will work on a log head, you just have to make sure its not running out of fuel due to the things I mentioned, and you have to rework the intake to the log to esure its not creating a fuel standoff situation. With every Weber 38, 32/36 or Holley Weber 5200/6500, it will have a fuel standoff problem with a log head. They atomise fuel finer than the 350's and 500 cfm Holleys and 0.98 to 1.33 Autolite 2-bbls.

The air fuel mixture needs room to bend and flow into each six cylinders, and any thing you can do, either direct mounting with a taller carb adaptor, or bolt on adaptor with a 2" hole instead of the stock 1.3, 1.5 or 1.75" inch hole, that will help.

A Weber will 9 times out of 10 give instant fuel delivery problems which you won't cure unless you fix the common problems. There are only a few ways to do it, and I've listed them above.


On a turbo 200 six, your biggest turbo compatability risk is actually having


1. too little cam

2. too big AR ratio turbo in situations where you are also

3. running absolute boost levels of 60 to 90 pounds Hg (15 to 30 psi indicated turbo boost).

Since having a well sized turbo is important, camming the engine upwards is a very important solution to avoid low turbo impellor speed induced surge.


Small turbos are the T03 60 series turbos. Common 1978- 1995 Volvo/Saab/Lotus Esprit/ MG Metro Turbo/Carb 1979-1981 2300 Fox Body Turbo unit used on 1.275 to 2.174 /2.301 and 2.316 liter engines. They are 9 to 12 psi turbos. It can be used in much bigger engines, such as


the 200 hp RB30ET Holden 3 liter 1985-1987 Commodore/Calais Turbo,
and the 255 hp 1983-1987 4.1 liter Falcon Turbo,

It is limited to about 265 hp, with 360 hp possiable if cam, intercooling and capacity avoid a surge period. Normally, not a problem. Another was the Ford and Mazda/Merkur T03 60 replacement, the Japanese IHI RB6 which Ford used in 2.2 Probes and 2.3 Limas. Both are small turbos which might not make the 15 psi boost you'd like.

The bigger TO4 needs to run a bigger engine over 120 cubes with good sized cam to avoid surge at higher boost levels.


A Turbo Surge example is a stock 1969-1974 Pinto 2000 Block/Head engine with a 600 cfm 4-bbl Holley, draw through T04 V1 turbo, and approx 20 psi turbo 2.0 pinto making 255 hp at 7000 rpm. It runs into a dangerous, engine destroying surge zone at or near 7000 rpm, and destroys the turbo at a 20 psi boost level (A numerical boost ratio of 2.35 on the chart is 20 psi actual boost pressure+14.7/14.7).

To fix it, adding a higher lift cam still makes that 20 pounds of boost, but with another 51 hp for 306 hp at 7000 rpm, without surge ever occuring. Its not lobe center, but cam duration which helps add exhaust cfm to drive the turbo faster.


From page 133, Chapter 11 Turbocharging & Supercharging

How to Modify Fords OHC Engines by David Vizard

https://www.scribd.com/doc/26804743/How ... ard#scribd

in 1977, David Vizard exclusively used Ak Miilers TO4 V1 Turbo kits on most of his Doug Sommerville sponsered Turbo 2.0 SOHC Pinto dyno tests. Sometmes, they got downgraded to an older kind of E1 trim TO4, but that shouldn't concern us here.



DV_chapter_11_page_133_fig 11_1a_FLOW_MAP_FOR_ AIRESEARCH_ TO4_v1_TURBO

See point A and B

DV_chapter_11_page_133_fig%2011_1a_FLOW_MAP_FOR_%20AIRESEARCH_%20TO4_v1_TURBO.jpg



On a 250-300 hp plus turbo 2.0 Ford engine, reving to 6500 or as much as 7000 rpm, a 320 degree, 284 degree at 50 thou, 560 tho lift Crane 322 B (now FOR 320-10 these days on 2300 Lima engines http://www.cranecams.com/186-187.pdf) cam verses the stock 264 cam was used on the TO4 V1 trim turbo.


This is probably the only case where a surge zone may occur.


On a 200 to 250 Ford six, the same Lincs 200 style turbo will work really good.


afcd9cf0.jpg


Garrett TO4 S3 with o trim exhaust

The rev range, boost ratios and curves suit any thing from a Stock duration 256 degrees, 370 thou lift, single 1946 carb, same turbo.

To a full house, 274 degrees and duration at 0.050 of 224 degrees with 0.450-inch lift using 1.65 Australian Yella Terra roller rockers, at 15 psi plus 250 like Does10s

Kelly_and_Will_1963_250_t04_57mm.jpg


Garrett TO4 with a 57mm inducer

and fast64ranchero./viewtopic.php?f=22&t=52695
AK Miller knew what he was doing just think what he could have done with one of Mikes heads

hailey07012.jpg


e2a7bef9.jpg


Turbonetics turbo 62-1 P trim 0.81 A/R, 269 cubic inch 30 thou over 250 block with 4-1/8" stroker crank, Clay Smith 292 duration 240 @50 .528 intake .498 Exh. 112 lobe centers to be set up at 108

JGTurbo S3 trim T04 viewtopic.php?t=54242#p414208

JGTurbo Video of engine in 68 Mustang http://vid857.photobucket.com/albums/ab ... 5C4228.mp4

IMG_0515.jpg
 
drag-200stang":fv3gvgk6 said:
In the 70s AK Miller was at the forefront of turbocharging..For a large log 200 he used a to4b-S trim that is 1.904" about 48mm on the compressor inducer on stock unmodified engines..Same size that Linc used on his stock engine....For my 266 cam, larger 1.470 exhaust valve, cleaned up bowl, head, weekend engine, he sold me the 300 stock engine turbo which was a V trim 2.180" about 55mm..That cam was shifted at 6500 and went thru the traps at 6800.
New build I am stepping up to a 66mm turbo and cammed to be shifted at 7000.

I messed up the intent of this post had X's carb size on brain,.. S inducer is 1.9'' or 48mm not 38mm :oops: It is now correct.
 
drag-200stang":1hk6yamm said:
I messed up the intent of this post had X's carb size on brain,.. S inducer is 1.9'' or 48mm not 38mm :oops: It is now correct.

It looks like we are both recommending a turbo around 47-48 mm providing the head is stock and considering the 264-110 cam.
I'm thinking the turbine housing A/R should be 0.86 rather than 0.64 to help with upper rpm power unless the interest is in faster spooling and low end torque.
 
pmuller9":q907w1u2 said:
drag-200stang":q907w1u2 said:
I messed up the intent of this post had X's carb size on brain,.. S inducer is 1.9'' or 48mm not 38mm :oops: It is now correct.

It looks like we are both recommending a turbo around 47-48 mm providing the head is stock and considering the 264-110 cam.
I'm thinking the turbine housing A/R should be 0.86 rather than 0.64 to help with upper rpm power unless the interest is in faster spooling and low end torque.
Yes I agree, ...I prefer tangential turbine housings when packaging permits...68 should be good spooling .81 would be good in the upper rpm range.. .96 will not provide good boost until high load , high heat and high rpm's...Hence my sig...at least on 200 ci. took till 4th gear to get to 15 -16 lbs. with a P trim. and 55mm comp.
I could not control boost over 5500 with a .68..81 was on forever backorder... :banghead: .
 
"...unless the interest is in faster spooling and low end torque…."
THAT's all it's about in my 250 bronk (inc. ability to use current build.
Only change is COULD go to another cam if necessary. THIS is set up for 250/4.1,
with 9.1 CR. NOT initially interested in turbo, but U guys R gettin me interested).
 
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