ledslinger29
Well-known member
Anybody using s synthetic blend in their little six? I live in Florida and plan on using a 10w30 synthetic on mine when I'm done with the rebuild.
Oil
- Thread starter ledslinger29
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RichCreations
Well-known member
don't break it in on synthetic... can use it after if you really want...ledslinger29":1sfcdo1d said:
My plan is to run break-in 5-30w to 500, around 200 now, then mineral 10-40w and then synthetic 10-40w @ 2500-3000. I'm using Joe Gibbs Driven oil. I dumped the cam break in oil and filter though. It hurt @ ~$50 w/ the filter, but I figure it's cheap insurance
Y the heavier @ break-in?
Do U have a magnet plug /or/ did U just trust ur eyes on that 1st change (when out w/the JG's)?
Will U ck the oil again on 2nd change?
How bout on the 3rd?
What should I look 4 besides small metal flakes (on 1st. If too many is this when I open the filter)?
How can I tell if it's too much (or is it possible for "too little"?)?
:
Thnx ~
Do U have a magnet plug /or/ did U just trust ur eyes on that 1st change (when out w/the JG's)?
Will U ck the oil again on 2nd change?
How bout on the 3rd?
What should I look 4 besides small metal flakes (on 1st. If too many is this when I open the filter)?
How can I tell if it's too much (or is it possible for "too little"?)?
:Thnx ~
ledslinger29
Well-known member
For break in I'm gonna use the Schneider break in oil, its got the extra zinc and phosphorus, with whatever suggestions I get from someone who has done it before. I might start with the heavier oil, that logic seems sound.
RichCreations
Well-known member
Econoline":54cttgcb said:
I did my break in with rotella 15w40 and break in additives, and straight rotella 15w40 ever since. (also in an econoline)
ledslinger29
Well-known member
The handbook calls for break in with a 5 or 10w30, I noted last night.
ledslinger29
Well-known member
Im planning on using a regular 5w30 with the Schneider breakin additive that has zinc and phosphorous
Old school thought afaik was to use a straight 30 weight, non detergent oil w/ adequate zddp for the cam break in. Chad, the oil I used for the break in and I'm still using until after the first 500 miles is Gibbs BR30, which is 5w30, specific for break in, oil. Probably very similar to Schneiders break in oil. I bought a case and dumped the first fill after the cam break in and then refilled w/ the BR30 and a new filter. I still have a couple qts, I'll throw those in with 3 qts of the 10w40 HR oil. Run it for 2000 miles and then switch to synthetic. I wasn't clear enough earlier about what was what. And I have no idea if this is a good idea other than research, general consensus and my own internal mutterings. I have broken in several engines, mostly diesels, but several chevy ohv engines as well, mostly Mercruiser's. We use mineral Delo for the diesels, per instructions. The Chevy's get break in oil that comes with the engines. We do a cam break in with the Chevy engines per instructions, but the oil doesn't get swapped out until 50 hrs iirc, per instructions. I'm sorry ledslinger, I'm not trying to hijack this thead, I just keep finding the need to clarify for Chad lol I love ya Chad
lol I love ya Chad
thesameguy
Famous Member
Zinc needed is a function of pressure on the contact parts - unless you're running serious valve springs and a big-lift cam, you don't anything special in terms of oil. Joe Gibbs themselves have articles on this on their website:
http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro ... the-myths/
http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro ... motor-oil/
Any API oil is plenty to break in or run an inline six unless you have a crazy valve train.
http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro ... the-myths/
http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro ... motor-oil/
Any API oil is plenty to break in or run an inline six unless you have a crazy valve train.
I've read those previously and they are great article on the subject. But I still wouldn't recommend using straight off the shelf oil for break in based upon this excerpt from the 2nd article:
"A perfect example of proper balance can be seen is an API SN motor oil. While this spec oil is limited to 800 ppm of a catalytic converter friendly ZDDP, an API SN oil can break in a flat tappet camshaft. The flat tappet cam in question has less than .400 valve lift and no more than 215 psi valve spring pressure. So an API SN oil will protect a flat tappet cam, but you won’t see success trying to break in a Big Block Chevy cam with over .500 valve lift and over 300 psi valve spring pressure with an API SN oil. It is the different demands of the valve train loads that dictate what balance is required to protect. "
Unless you are using a stock cam with stock springs, you will be beyond both of these parameters. And often higher than stock compression.
I'm going to stick with using Gibbs HR oil and assume it will be properly 'balanced' as they say and I'll be covered.
"A perfect example of proper balance can be seen is an API SN motor oil. While this spec oil is limited to 800 ppm of a catalytic converter friendly ZDDP, an API SN oil can break in a flat tappet camshaft. The flat tappet cam in question has less than .400 valve lift and no more than 215 psi valve spring pressure. So an API SN oil will protect a flat tappet cam, but you won’t see success trying to break in a Big Block Chevy cam with over .500 valve lift and over 300 psi valve spring pressure with an API SN oil. It is the different demands of the valve train loads that dictate what balance is required to protect. "
Unless you are using a stock cam with stock springs, you will be beyond both of these parameters. And often higher than stock compression.
I'm going to stick with using Gibbs HR oil and assume it will be properly 'balanced' as they say and I'll be covered.
RichCreations
Well-known member
Yeah, my "mild" cam has .430" lift, and more spring then that...Econoline":3n86t98e said: