8.5" Dog Dish Flywheel and Ring Gear

Varilux

Well-known member
I recently had the clutch replaced, and the shop noted "the flywheel really needs replaced."

I explained the part just isn't available, to which the mechanic bet me he could find one- next day he admitted defeat.

Modern Driveline told me they are "working on a prototype" and hope to have a flywheel and gear available by May of this year. However, I continue to search eBay in the hopes of one day seeing the proper flywheel for my '65 inline 200.

Anyone know the part number I'm looking for on the ring gear and flywheel? As I recall, there are 132 teeth on the gear. I've been looking for over a year off and on, but have never seen a NOS flywheel out there.
 
drag-200stang":1eclqk0s said:
Do you have a duel bolt pattern block?

How would I check to see? IIRC, the articles I've read indicate the bellhousing for a 9" has bolts that are at the very "top" of the engine block (vs. the 8.5" bellhousing, which has the bolts slightly below). Without removing the bellhousing, is there a way to check?

I'm assuming the potential solution would be to convert to a 9" flywheel (but then I'm wondering if I would need a new starter)?

Sorry, I know just enough to be confused.
 
Check the casting code on the block located on the exhaust side below the freeze plugs. If the code starts with C5, it has the smaller bellhousing bolt pattern only; if it starts with C6, it has the dual bolt pattern.
 
rocklord":37e5kurz said:
Check the casting code on the block located on the exhaust side below the freeze plugs. If the code starts with C5, it has the smaller bellhousing bolt pattern only; if it starts with C6, it has the dual bolt pattern.
I am not sure that C5 cannot also be duel, I am pretty sure on here I recently saw a duel block that was C5 , I was surprised, but I could be wrong.
You should be able to feel the bolt holes just above the bell . Feel around and let us know.
Not sure about starter, If not a good mini can save 10 lbs, your shoulder will thank you...The adapter may need mods or changed or not.
Ford up graded the clutch because it was not up to the job, It worked ok on the 144 and 170 and the early dog log.
 
The number on the block is "C5DE..." Which I'm guessing means I'm out of luck for being able to convert to a 9" flywheel. Looking at the bellhousing, it doens't appear as if there could be two alternative bolt locations along the top of the block.

I'm hoping Modern Driveline comes through with the 8.5" flywheel they are developing, because mine seems to be about shot. Even with a brand new clutch, I get shuddering in reverse and they had to adjust the play the whole way to the end of the threaded rod just to get the clutch to disengage when I hit the pedal.
 
Darryl,
Many thanks! Considering both the flywheel and ring seem to be made of unobtanium...

Just let me know if you find them, and I'll be delighted to send a check or PayPal your way!

Pete

PS- I didn't realize Ford was still using the inline 6 in the Mustang in 1980! I had a 1976 Mustang II with a V6 (had a 1980 Mustang as well, but it had the non-turbo 4 cyl).
 
Talk to Matt Cox at Inline Performance

http://www.ebay.com/usr/moderndriveline ... 7675.l2559
If you are looking for a 132 tooth Step 8.5" flywheel that is impossible to find, Modern Driveline will have a new one at the end of the year.



Meantime, you can reuse your 8.5. Never throw away a pre 1966 model year flywheel.


See /viewtopic.php?f=76&t=14250&start=0


All Ford flywheels are around the 1" thick at birth depth, with a factory allowance for a nominal 90 thou reface, for which Ford puts 90 thou witness divits on the face for those in the "know".

You can uniformly reface to 150 thou depth, about 0.850" minimum. You then use the Sachs Alfa Romeo or Mercedes Benz 215 mm Clutch. Also used in, IIRC, the 70's Lamborghini Urraco 2.5 and 3.0 liters.

So its plenty strong.

Ring gear is around. The basic part was a common patern. Kanter automotive. But Ford made the ring gear off common early I6 patterns. For 1966, they progressed to the bigger 136 ring gear and 9" clutch right till the last B-code 1981 T4 manual 3.3 Capris and Mustangs.


nope, http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/searc ... &make=Ford

Good fortune, F code auto 132 teeth ring gear is a weld on, you need to check what changes are required to make it work on your 8.5" flywheel.


The clutch change is a great swap, and ensures the 8.5 flywheel is usefull for ever. .


http://www.rickwrench.com/index79.htm
Update - The correct stock depth of the Alfa flywheel cup is .878". Mercedes flywheel cup depth is .885".

Update - After 90-100k miles of trouble free Alfa pressure plate use, the Squire needed a cluth job. I replaced the Alfa pressure plate with a Mercedes 190E plate (SACHS Part # 3082164031), MUCH cheaper.

Below is an excerpt from a flywheel resurfacing bulletin, showing correct stock cup depths. Trim your flywheel accordingly.

FLYWHEEL SPECIFICATIONS

The AERA Technical Committee suggests referring to the following
flywheel specification chart when re-surfacing flywheels.

Manufacturer Dia., Flywheel Specs Comments

_________________________________________________________________

69-74 Alfa Romeo 215mm, Cup .878" 1750, 2000

60-65 Ford, Falcon 8.5", Cup 1.00" 6 Cylinder engines

85 Mercedes, 240D 215mm, Cup .885" 2.4l Diesel engine


85 Mercedes, 190E 215mm, Cup .885" 2.0l, 2.3 SOHC engine (not DOHC)


(excerpted from) The AERA Technical Committee - June 1992 - TB 677R



Saturday afternoon I dropped out the T5 and pulled the flywheel/pressure plate/clutch disk off. I took the flywheel down to the machine shop and had .15" turned off the plate mounting face (see above chart for correct measurements - I took off slightly more than stock due to clutch disc thick/thin differences). I picked up a new Sachs 215mm Alfa Romeo pressure plate, modified a new S10 throw-out bearing (I'm using a stock S10 T5 tranny), bought a new clutch disk, and I was in business. Everything went back together smooth, just like a regular old clutch job.

During reassembly, I relocated the Z-bar rod pivot up a few inches (top picture) to reduce pedal travel. The diaphragm pressure plate setup, in addition to the relocated pivot point, made a huge difference in the pedal effort and travel. With the old long style plate, working the clutch was like having a one leg nautilus machine in the car. Now pedal effort is very light, almost new car light.


See https://herbelgarage.wordpress.com/2016/06/

ring-gear.jpg
 
Back
Top