Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

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1strodeo
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Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #1 by 1strodeo » Sat Jan 14, 2017 10:05 pm

Acquired an Offy 5205 Intake with linkage and 3 Motorcraft carbs. I took a 200 cylinder head to my machine shop for a rebuild and they basically said they would not mill the intake log to accomodate the Offy because it "wasn't their cup of tea" So my plan is to modify my existing 170 head to mount the Offy while getting the 200 head redone (my 170 bottom end has good compression).

I already had 2 rebuilt carbs and another from the 200 (with auto choke), but I can't understand why the Motorcraft carbs look so much larger than them? (See first pic)

So I may use the Motorcrafts down the road, but for now it makes more sense to use the 3 carbs i already had. Can I just remove the automatic choke from the one? My understanding is that only one carb needs a choke for cold start.
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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #2 by Econoline » Sun Jan 15, 2017 6:21 am

Nice work.

Someone makes an aluminum ring w/ a set screw to go from ford to the common chevy size air cleaner mouth, it's a lot nicer than the plastic ring adapters or otherwise if you need to find 3 that match


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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #3 by CZLN6 » Sun Jan 15, 2017 2:35 pm

Howdy 1st Rodeo:

Good get on the adapter. They are very cool. FYI- on the machinist I'd be looking for another. If you can look for a new machinist with a little gray in his thinning hair and a willingness to appreciate your project. If you can find one that gets a little gleam in his eyes at the thought of a tri-carb project.

Your adapter is for the early style, smaller log heads from 1960 to some '69 heads. You didn't say which castings you are working with. you'll find the casting numbers on top of the log just behind the carb hole. Anything C9xx and earlier will work with this adaptor.

On the carbs you have, I think the top three are Service Replacement Holley #1940s. It looks like the fuel lines are made to match these carbs. Check to make sure they all have the same inner venturi size. I can't tell for sure from the photo but they appear to be NON-SCV carbs.

In general, you will only need a choke system on the middle carb. What distributor are you using.

The polishing is really brings out the bling on this project. My preference on carbs for this setup are a team of glass bowled Holley #1904s. So Cool!

Keep it coming.

Adios, David
Last edited by CZLN6 on Tue Jan 17, 2017 1:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #4 by woodbutcher » Sun Jan 15, 2017 3:03 pm

:shock: I will second the find another "machinist".Your current one seems to be rather closed minded.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #5 by rbohm » Sun Jan 15, 2017 5:13 pm

i third finding a new machinst.
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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #6 by xctasy » Sun Jan 15, 2017 9:29 pm

I 4th finding a new machinist.

But be proactive and non judgemental.


Might I suggest, give him an email with this link...

https://i.imgflip.com/69usd.jpg

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With Luv from xctasy....
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FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
X-Flow Engine Components Ltd http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #7 by 1strodeo » Sun Jan 15, 2017 11:55 pm

Hey thanks everyone, both heads I have are '66, so the intake will work with either one. Think i'll take your advice (x4!!) and call around to other machine shops. I've used 3 shops in the Dayton area for various projects...I'm sure one will show a willingness to assist.

As for the carbs, I used my telescoping gauges and measured the narrowest part of the venturis (I believe that's where you measure) and 2 of the three Motorcraft carbs measured 1.2 (didn't measure the third) and one of the smaller carbs is even 1.2. The other smaller carb with the auto choke, which came off a 66 Mustang, measures 1.1.

Just thinking out loud, it seems that you wouldn't necessarily want the higher cfm carbs when spread across the cylinders? Just crossed my mind.

I'm still wanting to modify my existing 170 head for the Offy...if nothing else to get the setup functional and ready for the new head, assuming it's rebuildable.

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #8 by 1strodeo » Mon Jan 16, 2017 12:05 am

...by the way the three Motorcraft carbs are indeed non SCV, and I'm running a Duraspark ignition system, graciously donated by a '78 Fairmont or two.

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #9 by CZLN6 » Mon Jan 16, 2017 1:36 am

Howdy Back:

FYI- 1.1" venturi gives approximately 150 cfm. 1.2" = approximately 185 cfm. Many have used a center carb with a choke

Getting matching carbs will facilitate linkage. The Offy progressive linkage was designed with Holley #1904 in mind. The #1904 were used on 144 engines with a cfm of130. The 170 Holleys were rated at 150 cfm. Three carbs with 150 cfm will give you a thrill when all three are at full throttle and 450 cfm are roaring through that screaming 170.

What exhaust are you planning to use?

The DuraSpark is a great ignition system but you will have to experiment with which vacuum advance works best for your situation. Are you planning on using the stock cam?

The Autolite 1100 with the electric choke will likely not fit with three-in-a-row due to space.

Adios, David
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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #10 by xctasy » Mon Jan 16, 2017 4:09 am

Basically, the 1.10 Venturi(150 CFM) is ex 170 ThriftPower Six, 1.4375 Throttle,105 or 101 hp gross, and then on some then derated 67- 68-69 200's
The 1.20 Venturi(185 CFM) is normal 200 and some 250 Six, 1.4375 Throttle, downgraded from 120 to 115 gross some years.
The 1.29 venturi is 210 CFM 240 and some 250 sixes,1.6875 throttle, 145 to 155 gross.

Now its imperitive that igntion timing is pegged first, and that lifter preload, cam chain and cam degreeing are correct. The wide open throttle settings need to be varified. Sometimes the results of this swap are disapointing if thriple 1100's are used. datac had some issues a few years back, we think it was lifter preload and maybee peakthrottle opening, as he changed to a 1970 Mustang and Lokar cable set up.

viewtopic.php?f=101&t=70151&p=538337#p538337
Anyway,

5 articles blended answer your carb questions.

1. Horsing Around with the Mustang Six -
http://www.cometcentral.com/tech/hm6/index.html
http://www.cometcentral.com/tech/hm6/page2.html
http://www.cometcentral.com/tech/hm6/page3.html
http://www.cometcentral.com/tech/hm6/page4.html
http://www.cometcentral.com/tech/h2/index.html

2. Jan 1970 Hot Rods PDF. http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/members/ ... Up_1-3.pdf
3. The 1970 Hot Rod Yearbook artical above posted by unklechop
4. The board member Invectivus 1989 reposts of Jay Storers articals

HRM's mustang magazine number 3
http://www.invectivus.com/hrm_mustang3/Cover.jpg
http://www.invectivus.com/hrm_mustang3/Page%2090%20copy.jpg
http://www.invectivus.com/hrm_mustang3/Page%2091%20copy.jpg
http://www.invectivus.com/hrm_mustang3/Page%2092%20copy.jpg
http://www.invectivus.com/hrm_mustang3/Page%2093%20copy.jpg
http://www.invectivus.com/hrm_mustang3/Page%2094%20copy.jpg

5. Que unklechop's three piece Ak Millers article from HAMB's jalopy journal...
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/thre ... 452/page-2

Image

These articles offer two center carb choices by Replacement Carb number, not exactly the Original year part number code...it was a reorder number.

Choice A.The approx 193 to 200 cfm Carter YFA DOZZ 9510-F (They state 156cfm for the 200 and 146cfm for the 170 with there YFA's for 1970)
Choice B.The 200 tripower was listed with the D0TF 9510-G or F Autolite 1101 in the middle. Similar result from the 210 CFM carb.
A potential Choice C. C7AZ-9510-AA, the 240 cubic inch six cylinder Ford engine. This carburetor gave us a throttle bore diameter of 1.687 with a venturi of 1.290. The standard 1967 200 California Thermocator unit was the Autolite 1100 with a throttle bore of 1.437 and a venturi of 1.100.

The outers have Original Part numbers of those tiny little C2DZ 9510-A, what I think was an 1909 which were actually 170 Falcon carbs with 1" holes under them on the log

From other sources, the small early 1904/1908/1909 Holleys that were on the small sixes kinda sucked.
130,
150
or 170cfm for the 1904,

135
or 150cfm for the 1908,

125
or 150cfm for the other 1909's,

One kind of 1962 Holley 1909 is rated at 170 CFM and I think that was C2DZ 9510-4.

FalconSedanDelivery (Faron) got 14.39's with the 1909 outer and Autolite 1100 (not 1101) inner set up. His cam duration was about the same as Aks Mavi GT 250, and his lift figures on his Crane Solid Cam were 460 thou inlet and 480 thou exhaust.

FalconSedanDelivery wrote:.......250 .040, 1100 center, Little Holleys on ends , Crane Solid Cam .460int, .480exh Duraspark ign with GM 4 pin Module , 12-1 compression ( head was milled .120 , Deck .100 , Clifford Headers twin outlet ( open exh Drag car only ) car is a 1965 Mustang 3.50 gears C-4 with 10 inch converter ,( out of my 68 Blown 390 car ) 26.5 Slicks , Moroso Electric Water pump drive , adjustable Rockers , port divider in head , shift at 5000 , 4300 thru the traps.....



The he got a 14.39 sec for the 1/4 mile...

Ak used a stock aftermarket Hydraulic cam no smaller than 260 degrees as per his 1967 Hot Rod article on Classic Inlines, (Article 1 above)


and ( from Article 5 above) no bigger than 290 degrees, with no less than 430 thou and no more than 470 thou lift at the valve, 48 to 70 degrees overlap and used 9.7:1 compression with a 170 head with its stock 51.5 cc.

This was more than Ed Iskys 260° duration, .408 lift, 42° overlap, in-take opens 21° BTDC, intake opens 21° ATDC, exhaust opens 59° BBDC, exhaust closes 21° ATDC cam listed in that 1967 artical.

On the 250, its stock 59.4 cc chamber could take Jahns pop tops on that bigger cam without interferance. That's about 9.5:1, seeing as the 250 has the 103 thou or more short fall.

The 2 door 250 would have weighed in at 2600 pounds with its TopLoader and heavier six, and to pass 15's, it would need a Ford SedanDelivery Faron Rhoads style cam.
Image
XEC Ltd ICBE's Inter Continental Ballistic Engines-
FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
X-Flow Engine Components Ltd http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #11 by Varilux » Mon Jan 16, 2017 1:26 pm

I use three Autolite 1100s on my set-up, which seems to work well. A previous poster was correct- there is no room for the choke housing when all three carbs are installed. I originally planned to install a manual choke, but have never hooked it up (because rarely gets all that cold in Dallas- and I don't drive it on those days anyway).

One suggestion- switch to a cable throttle! I think the most time I spent on my 3x1 setup was fiddling with the stupid linkages. At least on my car there was just no way to get that accelerator rod to work (at least not with my header in the way). The cable throttle was an easy install and has made all the difference in getting the linkages to work.

I documented the conversion on my tumblr site (link in my sig). Good luck!
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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #12 by powerband » Mon Jan 16, 2017 8:00 pm

I'm not surprised the machinist declined the Offy mod on the head. Finding a capable machinist with an interest and enough time away from more typical work is a challenge.

Does the early Offy' TriPower use the same carb port size for each carb and C-clamps around intake log to secure intake runner ?, later Offy' triples use the larger center port for higher cfm 1Bbl's and four studs into top of runner.

Image . Image .

The Offy linkage can be set (and re-set), from synchronous operation of the three carbs variable to having the Outer carbs open at any degree of primary-Center carb. The outers' throttle opening rate also can change from gradual to snap-open at any point. (enabling hours and hours of tuning fun). A 'kick in the pants' secondaries open @ 2/3 throttle for street and full synchro' carbs at the track can be done.


My simple Tri-Power 'start-up' is to get engine running great with center carb only and outers' blocked off. Once engine runs great, then Tri-Power tuning fun starts. I swap each outer carb on center position and get each carb to work well alone before trying to get to work together. Each carb (especially vintage) has different characteristics to blend into Tri-Power optimization. I don't mess with any chokes as I never drive it in crappy weather and a few Tri- carb accel pumps' and it's plenty rich/primed.

$.02: IF you can, test all those carbs and use best running for center and nexts' for outer even if don't match. Pretty good running rebuilt early carbs often still have worn shafts with minor vacuum leaks that can make for unsolvable idle problems when needing to 'shut' outer tri-carbs. Cable throttle allows swapping different carbs fairly easily.


have fun


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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #13 by vssman » Mon Jan 16, 2017 9:40 pm

I fiddled around with mine for hours of fun as POWERBAND has mentioned can happen. A wideband AFR gage really helped with tuning. Once you get it right it's N-I-C-E. Not to mention anytime the hood is up, people just flock around it to look.
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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #14 by 1strodeo » Tue Jan 17, 2017 8:34 am

Wow! Thanks for all the input, a lot to digest.

First and foremost I probably should've mentioned this is going in a 66 Bronco, not a car. But I love the six and I want to make it the best (and coolest) six I can.

To answer some of the questions posted, I have a dual outlet header from VI, but it needs a slight modification on the front-3 outlet for the connecting pipe to clear the frame. In my past experiences with headers I could've just rotated the flange, but these flanges are welded in place. I haven't decided on mufflers yet...how do the Flowmasters sound? My pipes will exit either in front of or behind the rear wheels, not straight out the back (if that matters).

Because my current 1100 carb is SCV, I have the vacuum plugged off at the distributor and carb as my understanding is that the Duraspark doesn't work with SCV (loadamatic) carbs. Also being a Bronco it already has a cable throttle and a cable (manual) choke, the latter which I was planning to keep connected to the middle carb.

My plan was in fact to mount each carb individually and tune first, and I figured the third 1100 that I have will not fit with the electric choke, that's why I asked if I could just remove the choke mechanism, or better off just finding another 1100?

I will use the stock cam for now, but when I install the 200 head I will likely upgrade the cam at that time.

Looking forward to reading your build thread Varilux, but cant go to that link at work :nono: I guess I should be grateful I can get on Fordsix!

Thanks again,
Jeff

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #15 by 1strodeo » Tue Jan 17, 2017 8:40 am

powerband I'm not sure about the port size on the intake, but now that you mention it the center port did appear larger to me over the weekend...I guess I should've measured that too. Will do tonight.

Jeff

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #16 by 1strodeo » Fri Jan 27, 2017 10:23 am

Informed by machine shop the 200 head is cracked in the usual place (between 3/4 exhaust ports I think) so not quite so eager to go cutting on my 170 head any more...but I'm still gonna do it!

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #17 by chad » Fri Jan 27, 2017 5:43 pm

Some expierenced w/'forge welding' have done a more than adiquite job of saving.
The better jobs on the 200/250 have chosen specific heads and added materiel B4
machining 4 direct mounts.
The middle carb is "the master' carb (start, run, idle) while the other 2 R more 2ndary
(pour it on when giving it more peddle).
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #18 by 1strodeo » Wed Feb 15, 2017 12:35 pm

Here is the crack between 3-4 exhaust on the 200 head...can this be fixed? Would welding in the Clifford wedge fix (part of) the crack at the same time? Of course this same machine shop said "we don't fix cracks" :!:
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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #19 by ludwig » Wed Feb 15, 2017 1:25 pm

That crack will close up when it's hot. I know that's not what you want, but it's still true.
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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #20 by powerband » Wed Feb 15, 2017 3:19 pm

Here is the crack between 3-4 exhaust on the 200 head...can this be fixed? Would welding in the Clifford wedge fix (part of) the crack at the same time? Of course this same machine shop said "we don't fix cracks" :!:

... interesting idea but doubtful to undo-able
Image

Try to look around a little and find another head locally, they aren't that rare yet thankfully. Depending on your location, regional CL's often post 'Mustang' sixes swapped for V8's . Car cruise or show discussions can be helpful for swap parts.

Here in rust belt NE my Small Block Ford Six projects are mostly sourced from Mavericks'. The Maverick bodies seem even less survivable than the early cars. I use the engines, drivetrain, suspension from three dissolved Maverick's in '61 and 63' Falcon/Comets.

have fun
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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #21 by 1strodeo » Mon Feb 27, 2017 9:31 pm

Ordered 3 rebuild kits and 3 brass floats for the Holley 1940 carbs. I know they're not your favorite David but makes the most sense for my situation. I will watch Mikes Carburetor videos before rebuilding. I've successfully rebuilt a handful of carbs over the years; I can only think of one that didn't work (an 1100 with a float needle that would stick) so any tips on the 1940 rebuild would be most welcome.

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #22 by cr_bobcat » Mon Feb 27, 2017 10:07 pm

I've only ever rebuilt 1 carb and it was a 1940 that I did by watching those exact videos. Everything worked out perfect. I used a harbor freight ultrasonic jewelry cleaner to clean up all the bits and pieces. If I can do it you should be fine! Just be mindful of the check ball(s) and weight!

Good luck! :beer:
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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #23 by Hot 6t Falcon » Tue Feb 28, 2017 12:00 am

Here's a thought for you. when you get to tuning the multiple carbs. I learned it from my mechanic uncle 56 years ago. He taught me to be a greasy knuckle mechanic.

Take a piece of small dia. tubing, Or a toy stethoscope, And stick the tube down each throttle bore and listen to the "hiss". When they are all the same, the carbs are "balanced".
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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #24 by chad » Tue Feb 28, 2017 7:00 am

frm the post "1 carb per cyl"
"...Tuning (syncronising) them is no big deal with a hose, but there is a gadget called the Unisyn that takes all the guesswork out of the job…."
8)
Thnx, yet again Dennis!
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #25 by 1strodeo » Wed Mar 01, 2017 3:11 pm

Thanks fellas, I should have the carb rebuild kits from Mike's by tomorrow.

Meanwhile, my 'wedge' I calls it, arrived today. If nothing else, I hope it resolves my exhaust gasket issues. They seem to blow out at 3-4 ports regardless if manifold or headers are installed. I'll also obtain a higher quality gasket to go with the wedge.

Thanks,
Jeff
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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #26 by chad » Thu Mar 02, 2017 7:08 am

yup, dat's it. The thin edge goes in 1st...
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #27 by 1strodeo » Fri Mar 03, 2017 8:59 pm

Disassembled the first Holley 1940, gaskets are pretty stuck on, turned the bowl upside down and dumped this out in my hand...how long does it take gas to turn to complete DUST?? Also has a smell I can't quite identify, but I know I've smelled it before. Im thinking it must be at least 10 years beyond the lacquer smell!
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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #28 by chad » Fri Mar 03, 2017 11:13 pm

need 2 sip on that frosty bev 2 wash away all that 'dust'.
Just think how nice ur bronk ill B with the 'trips', wont B long now...
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #29 by 1strodeo » Fri Mar 03, 2017 11:29 pm

Never learned how to sip, thats the problem :beer:

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #30 by chad » Sat Mar 04, 2017 8:04 am

Ahhhha
("Which end of this screw driver to hold?")

Hey,
I'm assuming this will be mainly an 'on rd' vehicle?
Any off rd trips?
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #31 by 1strodeo » Sat Mar 04, 2017 11:56 pm

Hey Chad no off-road, maybe if I hooked up with some locals I would, but by July I'll have the type of money in this thing that it will not only be strictly street, but seasonal as well! (These dumbasses like salt around here)

Anyway made a little progress today, got one of the carbs cleaned up (bowl gaskets were a HUGE pain, like someone used gasket sealer!!!) and started assembly. Great thing about rebuilding 3 carbs is you don't have to take a bunch of pics cuz you always got a model to look at!

If I get it put together tomorrow I hope to also bolt it to my 170 and test it...gotta figure out the vacuum stuff though because it's non SCV
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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #32 by chad » Sun Mar 05, 2017 8:06 am

thanks for the tip on the frame/forward header tube interference. Today I couldn't settle the flange up to the head (sitting off the motor on the bench) until clearencing a bolt hole. They fit fine. The 'wedge' is well located after lota grinding w/a burr. Do U know if the packaged gasket (silver w/the 2 donuts) is the better -or- is it the grey one Matt shipped that's the "special"?

have you checked the "hood room" on the additional hight the 1940s/offy adds?
Some 1 put a car 170 in my bronk pre-1983 B4 I got it & the hood scrapes there (the thumb screw on ac has dimpled the metal :shock:
They kept the bronk pan so no 'introductions' between the D44 & it but
I DO have TWO dipsticks ('pan located' on pass side, 'car 170' on drivers side)!
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #33 by 1strodeo » Sun Mar 05, 2017 2:52 pm

Well the guy (Mike I believe) from Classic Inlines had stated that the special gasket worked better for him, so I'd go with that. I believe that I'll just keep blowing them out until I get the 'wedge' installed.

Never checked the clearance, would probably be wise to do so, but if I had and foresaw an issue I may not have gone forward with the plan. Guess I'd rather cross that bridge when I come to it.

I hate everything about the pan style dipstick!

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #34 by chad » Sun Mar 05, 2017 5:49 pm

1strodeo wrote:Well the guy (Mike I believe) from Classic Inlines had stated that the special gasket worked better for him...
I hate everything about the pan style dipstick!

1) Yeah, but is it the 'grey' or funky silver ? (U only get one?)

2) Don't worry, the C4 specific to the bronk may B the only 'pan fill' & pan style dipstick! in a C4…
another issue…

3) I have a list of 'raise the hood' work-arounds (7 or 8?) if needed for all 60's/70s fords (many gotit) if U need it later.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #35 by 1strodeo » Mon Mar 06, 2017 9:26 am

As I recall they are basically the same gasket, but the special had a (gray?) coating over the funky silver. It was probably the one that wasn't packaged, just thrown in the box by Matt.

The dipstick I was referring to was the engine dipstick that goes into the side of the pan, leaks like heck!

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #36 by chad » Mon Mar 06, 2017 9:39 am

1strodeo wrote:As I recall they are basically the same gasket, but the special had a (gray?) coating over the funky silver. It was probably the one that wasn't packaged, just thrown in the box by Matt.
The dipstick I was referring to was the engine dipstick that goes into the side of the pan, leaks like heck!


OK, I'll go wid da grey, thnx.

"...leaks like heck!…"
and falls out!

Any mods U guys can lend…I'd appreciate it.
(don't wanna braze a patch, ie just make a new 'correct sized' hole as 1 guy did…
isn't there a better design there like Lokar or another does?)
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #37 by woodbutcher » Mon Mar 06, 2017 10:36 am

:hmmm: Hi 1strodeo.One way to fix the leak is to remove the dipstick tube.Make make a gasket to fit the shape.Very lightly coat the gasket with #2 Permatex and re attach it with screws and nylock type nuts.Won`t come loose or leak again.I have generally used allen head type screws for the job.Course,I`m sort of a "belt and suspenders"type of guy.I also use lock washers with the nylocks. :rolflmao: :rolflmao:
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
"People never lie so much as after a hunt,during a war,or before an election".

Otto von Bismarck

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #38 by 1strodeo » Mon Mar 06, 2017 11:24 am

Thanks Leo, so I assume you must remove the pan to do this since you also use the nyloc nuts?

There's so much crud around mine I cant even tell how its attached to the pan (4 screws? rivets?) :(

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #39 by woodbutcher » Mon Mar 06, 2017 12:35 pm

:D Yes,the pan must be removed.That will give you a chance to clean out any crud in the pan.Rivets are the way that I have found the tube to be attached.With a couple of exceptions where the pan had been removed before.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
"People never lie so much as after a hunt,during a war,or before an election".

Otto von Bismarck

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #40 by 1strodeo » Wed Mar 08, 2017 9:52 pm

Got the first 1940 built and installed, good news is it actually works (never doubted my carb rebuild skills til that last 1100) though haven't road tested yet. Also haven't really tuned it as i spent most of my limited time working on the linkage because the 1940 throttle connection (to the cable linkage) sits lower than the 1100 did. Got the bracket that holds the cable positioned but in the process cut the coolant hose that runs under the carb, which will go away anyway with the Offy setup. Baby steps...
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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #41 by Econoline » Wed Mar 08, 2017 11:37 pm

That's the way to do it, you've got a good plan
It ain't gonna fix itself

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #42 by bubba22349 » Thu Mar 09, 2017 6:39 am

:beer: congrats that carb cleaned up nice! :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #43 by 1strodeo » Thu Mar 09, 2017 7:39 am

That chem-dip is some powerful stuff! Don't do much for gasket removal though :cry:

Once I get them all tuned in I'll polish them up like David said, or try to at least with Brasso or something...there I go again stick with the plan thanks Seth!

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #44 by 1strodeo » Sat Mar 11, 2017 9:48 pm

Road test complete, seems more responsive but top end on highway is still less than before I installed headers (kinda juggling 2 threads here) so it dawned on me that since it was maxing out 60-65 mph at high RPM I should run the vacuum advance and sure enough I could tell an improvement, got up to 70 probably could've gotten a couple more mph.

HOWEVER while tearing down the other two 1940's I broke one of the idle mix screws, so now I'll either go with my 1100 as my third carb or find another throttle body for the 1940 (I made a mess trying to extract the rest of the screw).

I could put the 1100(SCV) as the center carb but I'd rather keep the vacuum advance on the middle carb...or does it matter? The outer carbs won't kick in until high RPM so does it matter which carb feeds the vacuum to the dizzy?
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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #45 by bubba22349 » Sun Mar 12, 2017 12:07 pm

Most tri power setups use the center carb as the distributors ported vacuum hook up and some also use a choke on the center carb too, the out'er carb's don't need the chokes. As far as if it matters were you tap in for the ported Distribitor vacuum I would lean towards the center as being the best location though I am also sure it could work on any of the carb's. I have also seen some early multi carb systems were they hooked all the ported vacuum ports using hard lines soldered together into a log and then T'ed into it near the center for the Distribitor. With progressive throdle linkage using the Autolite 1100 carb in the center will work fine however its SCV sure isn't ideal for the best performance when used with your DuraSpark II Distributor but in a pinch you could also go with straight Manifold vacuum hookup. You should be able to find another 1940 easy enough though so all the carb's match. Good luck :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #46 by gb500 » Sun Mar 12, 2017 6:22 pm

1strodeo wrote:Road test complete, seems more responsive but top end on highway is still less than before I installed headers (kinda juggling 2 threads here) so it dawned on me that since it was maxing out 60-65 mph at high RPM I should run the vacuum advance and sure enough I could tell an improvement, got up to 70 probably could've gotten a couple more mph.

HOWEVER while tearing down the other two 1940's I broke one of the idle mix screws, so now I'll either go with my 1100 as my third carb or find another throttle body for the 1940 (I made a mess trying to extract the rest of the screw).

I could put the 1100(SCV) as the center carb but I'd rather keep the vacuum advance on the middle carb...or does it matter? The outer carbs won't kick in until high RPM so does it matter which carb feeds the vacuum to the dizzy?



you can convert the scv carb to ported vacuum with 3 grub screws

. is a thread on it here somewhere , but also here:
http://www.63fordfalcon.com/articles/au ... matic.html

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #47 by bubba22349 » Sun Mar 12, 2017 10:04 pm

If you want to renew the carbs exterior finish to like new then Eastmans has a paint for that, see below link. Good luck :nod:

http://www.eastwood.com/carb-renew-2-br ... -5-oz.html
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #48 by 1strodeo » Mon Mar 13, 2017 9:44 am

Thanks for the tip gb500, may look into that, I should probably check the fitment of the 1100 on the Offy adapter before I do anything else. I know the middle hole is a bit larger than the outers

Bubba i'll see how they look cleaned up and polished first. Besides, if I paint the carbs, then ill have to paint the engine!! :lol:

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #49 by 1strodeo » Thu Apr 06, 2017 12:47 pm

This project is on hold for a few months while the body is being removed, blasted, patched and painted.

Hopefully I wont look back on this thread in a year with no progress!

Jeff

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Re: Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread

Post #50 by chad » Thu Apr 06, 2017 3:53 pm

U Go, Jeff!
"few months while the body is…"
'never' is a time to rest, if U got energy, interest, $…
U can stay ahead of it if continuing while they're doin their thing.
:thumbup:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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