200 issue

I finally got around to checking out my 200, with some not so good news. did a few leak down tests with poor results, 80 percent leakage on 1st and last cylinder which seems to be rings...with the rest at 20 to 40percent. debating my options at this time.

any suggestions please throw my way
it is a 68 block with 65 3.03 3 speed

Pull head only, do rings, replace head bolts w/APR studs, gasket, tighten down, redo compression test???
If still not up to snuff - onto bigger and more extensive stuff??

Y did U do the compression test initially?
Do U have funds or another head? Great time for an upgrade...

Hi, where is the most leakage? Dipstick and oil filler means rings, carb or exhaust means valves. Fluctuating vacuum means valves. Do a compression test. it sounds like rebuild time. Good luck

well heres the deal, bought this engine initially after i blew my 170 . this was roughly year and a half ago, it has been sitting since then. i dont know how long it was sitting beforehand, i was told it ran good when pulled. well i was going to just go ahead and istall without testing but i recently picked up a leakdown tester to check it out. engine has not been run, will this effect results? probably, but having 2 cylinders show that poor has me thinking on to do for sure

i will be taking head off for sure for further investigation test a bit more if i did something wrong initially

would i be better off to hook up a bh and starter to crank it and test compression?

If I remember correctly, aren't 1 and 6 companion cylinders? If so, the pistons in these two cylinders would be at the same point in their travel in the bore always due to the offset of the crank. Are you sure that you had the crank in the correct position with the valves completely closed when you did your leak down test on these two cylinders? I am just asking because of your results.

Kevin

Howdy Back Falconero and all:

You are at a bit of a handicap trying to diagnosis with the engine not running. And being that it has sat for a time and not run is another disadvantage. Was it stored upright or laying at some angle while stored. Anyway trying to get accurate leak down test results will be unlikely and not very reliable.

What year is the head? What is your intended use? If this is a low bucks driver, I'd be inclined to get it going first. It will take some running to get it thoroughly loosened up. It will take some crankcase cleaners- high detergent to unstick rings and lifter. Once it is running clean and good is the time for leak down test as well as a vacuum gauge assessment.

There is a chance it will never completely loosen up. That's when a tear down assessment is necessary. Low bucks just went out the window.

Anyway, that's my two cents, for what it's worth. Keep us posted on you progress.

Adios, David

ags290":d46434x5 said:

If I remember correctly, aren't 1 and 6 companion cylinders? If so, the pistons in these two cylinders would be at the same point in their travel in the bore always due to the offset of the crank. Are you sure that you had the crank in the correct position with the valves completely closed when you did your leak down test on these two cylinders? I am just asking because of your results.

Kevin

Click to expand...

yes i believe they are on the same, although they were tested seperatly, came up with comparable results on three seperate tests per cylinder.

CZLN6":2wkjnrvu said:

Howdy Back Falconero and all:

You are at a bit of a handicap trying to diagnosis with the engine not running. And being that it has sat for a time and not run is another disadvantage. Was it stored upright or laying at some angle while stored. Anyway trying to get accurate leak down test results will be unlikely and not very reliable.

What year is the head? What is your intended use? If this is a low bucks driver, I'd be inclined to get it going first. It will take some running to get it thoroughly loosened up. It will take some crankcase cleaners- high detergent to unstick rings and lifter. Once it is running clean and good is the time for leak down test as well as a vacuum gauge assessment.

There is a chance it will never completely loosen up. That's when a tear down assessment is necessary. Low bucks just went out the window.

Anyway, that's my two cents, for what it's worth. Keep us posted on you progress.

Adios, David

Click to expand...

yes i see what you mean for bon running engine.

it was stored upright, head is a 67.
my intentions were/are get it reliable /cheap enough to drive for the time to just putz around town, max round trip being around 100 miles or so.

some of this is new to me, i have helped and had help on previous engine work in the past, ford, chevy v8, honda, saturn and a few others

thanks for the comments folks, next step will probably be to atleast get it runningsee what it does from there

X 2 it's also my opion a leak down tester isn't going to give you very good results when testing an engine that's not been in running condistion. If you can crank the engine over then try a regular compression tester first dry and then with a little oil in each cylinder to compare. Good luck

Been awhile since I've swapped an engine but if your feeling energetic and have some friends there to help and was told it ran ok it may be worth just doing it and see how it runs. What do the plugs look like?
Also consider getting a copy of the Falcon Performance Handbook it is very inexpensive and is a valuable resource. You'll see.

I've had the valves stick open on engines that have sat for extended periods. The best thing to do is get it running and then do an assessment.

got a starter hooked up, compression is as follows
1st- 130
2nd- 140
3rd- 140
4th- 150
5th- 130
6th- 120

ignition set up next

on a side not e, innards are a little red

Did you do your compression test wet or dry? I still think you should try to get it running before tearing anything down. A wet compression test will help you at least see if your culprit is rings or valves on your low cylinders.

falconero":3stimn0r said:

got a starter hooked up, compression is as follows
1st- 130
2nd- 140
3rd- 140
4th- 150
5th- 130
6th- 120

ignition set up next

on a side not e, innards are a little red

Click to expand...

That's good enough compression that it should start and be able to get it running. Later on after some use do another compression test. Good luck

ags and bubba , compression test was done after a bit of oil added to cylinders

did a quick connect with a bit of gas, she's purring along with no timing adjustment took off right of way.

i have not looked into it to much but can anyone identify what carb is currently connected?
i also have the one of my 170 head isnt quite as complicated and is a holley, wondering whats a better option?
i do not have any throttle linkages hooked up, they are a bit disassembled at this time.

thanks for the help

Howdy back Falconero:

For an engine that's been sitting those compression numbers look pretty good. If it were mine I'd installed and run some more. Chances are good that Cylinder leak down tests would improve more. Running it could loosen the rings and work a tighter seat on the valves. It's sure worth a try.

From that limited angle the carb looks like a a rebuilt Autolite 1100. Parts are missing. What distributor is in the engine? Stock specs call for 5 degrees initial advance. Check to make sure the vacuum line is hooked up and that the vacuum advance is not sticking.

How do the plugs look? They will be oily from what you added for the compression check but under the recent oil coating. The red color on the springs looks like someone went wild with a red can of Krylon and missed the valve cover. Any other signs of red
spray paint?

Are you running it with the valve cover removed? If so, how long did it take for oil to reach the #1 rocker arms?

Adios, David

Hey Falconero:

Where in North Dakota are you located? My Brother is in Grand Forks and I have a Sister in Minot. We're wintering in St. George, UT so you have my sympathy. I've weathered my share of North Dakota winters. Idaho winters arn't much better. Anyway, keep it coming.

Adios, David

The carb looks like an 1100 for a manual transmission. It is missing a piece of linkage to the dash pot.

congrats on getting it running, yes X3 Autolite carb. Good luck that should make a nice driver.

Get a tank of fresh fuel in the tank & get it rolling. You might be surprised that you have a gem.
While you have the valve cover off check the valve guide umbrella seals to see if they are still intact. Good luck.