Head bolt questions

ags290

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I searched the forum and didn't see exactly what I was looking for, but I'm sure it's been asked and answered a thousand times, so please accept my appology in advance. The Ford shop manual that I have says to apply thread sealer to the number one and number six head bolts on the right side of the engine. These obviously don't correspond to the torque sequence so I am guessing it's just the bolt order from front to back on the passenger side of the car. Is this correct?

The right front bolt had some type of plumbers putty on the threads when I removed it. The sixth bolt had nothing. What is the proper thread sealant to use? I have hardware store plumbers putty, grey GM form a gasket and blue RTV on hand. Which one should I use?

I chased the block threads with a bottoming tap and have purchased hardened head bolt washers to go on during the reassembly. I know to grease the threads of the non sealed bolts along with the underside of the heads of the bolts. What else am I missing?

The rebuilt cylinder head is currently sitting on the block on two stds to locate it, but not bolted down.

Thanks and as always all help is appreciated,

Kevin
 
You definitely need to seal the one up front that goes into the water passage. I forgot and had all kinds of coolant boil out. I was not a happy camper. Pretty sure I used Permatex PTFE.
 
Howdy ags:

Is this head going on your 170? How much did you have it milled? What gasket did you use?

The back drivers side head bolt is also an oil transfer passage. In the old days we used to flatten on side of the threads to increase oil up to the rocker shaft. Later 200s, post 1978, have a a tapered shaft that does the same thing.

Keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
Yes the head is going on the 170. I had it milled .030 and ended up with 50cc combustion chambers. I am using a Ford upper end gasket kit, C90Z-6079-A.
 
I suggest purchase ARP head bolt studs. Use ARP thread sealant or Grey RTV on the right front stud or head bolt. That is the only one exposed to coolant. When assembling use moly grease on the head bolts & washers so the proper torque is applied to the fastener.
Make sure the rf head bolt stud does not hit the water pump impeller upon assembly.
 
The passenger side front and rear is where the guide studs go, the holes in the gasket and head are smaller at those two spots for best alignment.
RTV is fine as long as every thing is clean and you wait till is is cured before filling it and running it.
Yes on the threads.
Bill may have a different opinion,but that is what I do.
 
The head is back on she fired right up. There is a intermittent "skip" at idle that I need to figure out but hopefully the heavy lifting is over for a while. I ran it for about 30 minutes, made sure the coolant burped and we didnt have any leaks and quit for the day. I will go back and retouque the exhaust tomorrow ant double check for vacuum leaks for the skip. Verify the timing and make a run through the neighborhood. I'm excited for tomorrow.

Thanks for all of the help!

Kevin
 
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