Hello All, I'm continuing the thread started as Water Pump Noise, which turned out to be more serious and elusive. I finally pulled the motor today, and pulled the main caps. All bearings looks good except number 3, the thrust bearing. It looks worn, almost like rotating dry. This could be the source of the screech...I could not find any other source...oil pump looked good. Any thoughts? Where you see the smooth areas, it really is smooth, not a reflection.
144 Problems, Heinous Screech
- Thread starter adamscm
- Start date
Was there any oil on it when you took it out?
I see where you are going with that, but it seemed to have a little, not as much as the other bearings though, so I don't know how much I could determine there. I did run a wire through the crank oiling hole there, and it was unobstructed. The whole lower end is very clean. To me, from its looks, seems like it might be running dry, or oil just not getting to parts of it. The other bearings were very smooth compared to this one.
Crank surfaces look and feel really good, no visual flaws. I did not look at any rod bearings yet. Seems like most rod noise would be banging or knocking. This sound is a "rotating screech" for lack of a better term, again, like a really loud, bad fan belt, but more harsh. Of course, when I say only the #3 bearing looks bad, I haven't seen the top halves of any of them yet. Maybe the soft-metal bearings have just given up the ghost after 55 years. I'm sure the whopping 4 main bearings doesn't help...it would just be nice to be certain what the cause of the noise is.
Keep looking and let us know. That doesn't seem like the smoking gun you're after, whether it is the cause or not. You might as well replace all the main and rod bearings and the oil pump while you're in there. Did you find anything suspicious in the timing cover area?
Hey Guys, I'd like to hear from someone who has removed a six from a Falcon/Comet/Mustang. Specifically, I've always separated the motor from bell housing, but when I get my block back from the shop, I'd like to install the engine/Trans as one unit. Any tips for doing this, like where did you attach the chains, and did you use a leveler somehow? Thanks!
If you reinstall the engine and tranny together, you have to raise the front end up at least 8 or 10 inches to get the tail of the transmission to clear the ground. Also, you have to remove the chassis stiffening bracket. It's the 1.5" pipe that connects both sides of the chassis just in front or behind the transmission. (I forgot which.) I used two bolts, one on the front right and one on the rear left. I think they were 1/4". Maybe 3/8". I used one of the intake manifold bolt holes in front and a fuel pump bolt hole toward the rear. Worked just fine.
Thanks for the reply, especially the point about the crossmember. I can't visualize what would hit that while putting the motor/Trans in. I've just had so much trouble getting the Trans jabbed back in the motor when putting them in separately. For all following my drama, I did drop off the short block for a rebuild today. None of the main bearings are good, some worse than others. Could mean that rod bearings are in the same shape. Might as well bite the bullet, and have something I can depend on. I had the head done about 200 miles ago, so it's good. One possible option when I put the motor back in is to do it with the head OFF....That way, I can use the head bolt holes to have the block much more level while installing--and the lessened weight might make it easier to handle.
turbo2256b
Well-known member
I may have a rebuild kit for a 144 / 170 from long ago guessing its all std size bearings and such would have to look
I'm sorry you are having so much trouble. Your Comet is too cool of a car not to get back on the road before spring weather gets away from you. Reach out if you need any hard parts. I have a couple of 170 parts motors, and some miscellaneous gaskets. Good Luck!
Kevin
Kevin