Engine upgrade for 1960 falcon.

http://rs1376.pbsrc.com/albums/ah7/oldg ... 0&fit=clip http://rs1376.pbsrc.com/albums/ah7/oldg ... 0&fit=clip http://rs1376.pbsrc.com/albums/ah7/oldg ... 0&fit=clip

Here's the pictures of the car the day my son bought the car it has been painted as their is over spray on
the door handle gaskets, but other than that I think it's mostly original. We're the third owners.

oldgriz":1v51ciwy said:

Here's the pictures of the car the day my son bought the car it has been painted as their is over spray on
the door handle gaskets, but other than that I think it's mostly original. We're the third owners.

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Nice....


gb500 said that in 1964 to 1965, there was a common conversion bellhousing plate to merge the latter planned Big Aussie gearboxes with the stock early Ford small six.

gb500":1v51ciwy said:

thanks -
not that i am an expert - but i didnt think they made 5 welsh plugs with only 4 mains cranks.allways a learning experience

if you have the 2 speed auto then you will have a narrow block six. the 3 speeds and later (ie XR onwards) have a wide block . this refers
to the gearbox /auto mounting lugs.

i have a narrow block 200 at sitting at home that has a 1/4" adapter plate to go from narrow block to 3 speed auto.

it has the 5 welsh plugs - havent taken the sump off to see if its 4 bearings or 7 bearings.


i would take with a pinch of salt the US book re change of bearings as i this may only apply to american production- not real sure though.



i think the 4 mains are sturdy enough for a 40 year old car to cruise in- unless you are wanting to go every where at 6000rpm.....

the best /easiest swap is to look for a 221 engine- extra power + 7 bearings and 'generally' accepted as being within the +10% eng capacity increase allowed by the rego authorities for engine rebuilds.



there was on ebay a month or so ago a bellhousing to go from ford six to C4.

search australian ebay in completed items for item number:

320210243973.

for a picture - probably by dellow

have alook at this link - bloke putting a 3 speed ( ie BW35) into an XM - which has pics of his hump panel beating.- but its not a C4

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread ... ge=3&pp=25


Brett
melb.

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MustangSix":1v51ciwy said:

In terms of manufacturing these, it would be a lot easier to setup a mill or CNC punch to do this type of work if the centerlines of each hole is described in terms of an X:Y coordinate from a baseline. Crank centerline could be 0:0 for example, the rest could be assigned a distance from there.

Anything above the centerline would be +Y, anything below would be -Y. Left of center is -X and right of center is +x. It eliminates the need to index an angle and a distance from a set center point.

PM sent.

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viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67416&p=516591#p516591

gb500":1v51ciwy said:

heres some pics of what i was talking about :
200ci
5 welch (core) plugs: C4 casting

4 mains:

and adapter plate to take the 'narrow' block out to wide block to fit a wide block Bw35 bellhousing:

also spaces out the starter motor as the aust wide block motors have larger dia flex plate (and flywheels)

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So its easy to go in reverse, puely by shear good fotune of EAO/Lima to 250 US bellhousing bolt and iron footprints.
People drag race Turbo 2.3's off that clutch type. It'll be eassy for a 250 to use the same part.


So I know your planned 250 Falcon is easy to do without brutilising the chassis.

Hi everyone the last time I posted was a while ago and a lot of you gave us lots of info to digest .We picked up the book as suggested and digested the info in the book. Originally we were going g to drop a 250 i6 witch we have but have changed course as we have decided to keep the car as original as possible.

I also have a 1971 200 i6 with small bellhouseing C4 automatic transmission that we have decided to use. As it will fit in easier with less modifications. The goal is to fit this engine and trans replace the steering column with after market tilt auto shift one and get rid of the death spear column. The rear end will eventually be up graded to a four lug maverick grabber rear we have.

It has been a tough year financially for me (two types of cancer) but things are looking up and getting back to normal. My son is in college to, so funds are scarce. so we are going to do what we can in our own shop to keep costs down. we will spend money if it makes sense to do so. That being said we have a pretty well equipped shop, 3.5 horse power variable speed milling machine with 10 x 54 inch table and digital readout in x,y and z axis. Have a lot of tooling to go with it. Also have a small 12 x24 atlas lathe also well tooled. But more importantly the knowledge to use it. If you folks are interested I will post our journey with pictures
And updates as we go along. Comments,suggestions and advice will be most welcome. We have never rebuilt an engine before but know how read and have been a mechanic of some sort for over fourth years. I am currently a refrigeration engineer/tech.

We did get the engine up on a engine stand and torn down. The head was removed.
The number 4 cylinder was filled with water and rusted. I drained the oil pan and about one and a half gallons of water came out followed by Brown sludge and then about 4 quarts of very black oil. I then carefully pulled the pan off, it had another couple of quarts of brown sludge in it. The engine was never laid over as I pulled the engine out of the parts car my self. The bottom end was pretty clean. only the oil pump pick up screen had crud on it this car sat in the desert of eastern new mexico for over twenty years with the hood off the car.

I did make some preliminary measurements on some of the cleaner cylinders.
Number 2 ridge at top was 3.687 about half inch down measuring from front to back of engine,3.678 and across the block 3.680
Number 5 cylinder ridge was 3.693 front to back 3.678, across block 3.680.

Info I have found on the Wed says 10 to 12.000 miles per 1.000 thousand of cylinder wear as a rule of thumb. So taking the measurements of the #2 cylinder
3.687 - 3.680= 0.007 so engine might have between 70 to 80 thousand miles on it?

Well it's getting late. I will post pictures of the engine tomorrow.

Nice choices, I gotta say, but Geeze, oldgriz. The rest of the year will have to be better for you. Good fortune.

double post

http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/oldgr ... slideshow/
I could not embed the pics I have off of my tablet so here's a link to them.

Thanks ecstasy for the good wishes. There is a lot more to it but I'm thankful to be alive. I do want to say that all men over 50 get a yearly prostate cancer blood test done. it saved my life not once but twice, they did a C.T. scan to see if it spread. It did not but they found a rare cancer growing on my small intestine called GIST or gastrointestinal stromal tumor. So they removed 3 feet of my intestine. It was caught so early that no farther action required, just a C.T. scan every 6 months for 3 years. Thankfully I have very good insurance. Anyway enough old man problems I'm finally getting back out to the shop and enjoying life.

Chad the final application is going to be putting this 200 acid C4 transmission in to my son's 1960 four door falcon. The goal for us since we are poor is to do all the work we can ourselves. We are looking to hop up the engine and blueprint it. we want a 200 thousand mile engine that gets great gas mileage and is reliable. this car is going to be a cruiser. Car has original 144 acid engine and three speed trans.
It is on its last legs. future plans are to changing the steering column to a tilt automatic shift one. When I upgrade my 1970 Maverick grabber from four lug to five it will get that axle, we will go thru it and add positrack and disc brakes. we are also going to change out the master cylinder from single to double reservoir. Also upgrading all instruments killer stereo system and because I do HVAC refrigeration for a living ,air conditioning.

So the next thing to do is get the rotating assembly out of the block. I'm thinking of

1, pull all rod and main bearing caps off and oil the bearings with 5x30 oil. this
Engine is bone dry.
2, put the rod and main cap back on . Put the oil pan back on
3, flip engine over and liberally pour oil into all cylinders and let soak
4, build a tent over engine and stand and put electric heater under it.
5, I may have to take some abrasives to cylinder #4
6, try and get the rotating assembly to move with large breaker bar.

If the above doesn't work ill have to get medieval on it. I'll remove the crankshaft and punch them out with a wood block and heavy hammer.
I'm not trying to save the rings or pistols but I do want to minimize the damage to the cylinders if I can.

If anyone has an improvement or better way please chime in.

Step 2 will be to hot tank at home. thinking electrolysis to clean the block
Once the block and head are cleaned, pressure test them with air and soap bubbles or I do have a hydrostatic pump and could use water.

If anyone has any ideas on this I'd like to hear them. If we have to we'll take to be magnafluxed.

we had a regular on here when I joined. A goal of his was "MPGs" too - may wanna look up his wrk/documentation here.
Thank you for your reply!

Luv the 200/C4 plan. What carb is planned? I like the H/W progressive but wondered what yer research has turned up.

The "hop up" mentioned, I'm not sure yer intent. This was my 'application' question. I have heard that performance
and MPGs go hand in hand when considering specific components (unless U got yer foot in it all the time of course).

"Blue print" would go with the performance and "durability" ("200K mi engine").

"Cruiser" to me means a DD & some longer interstate excursions.

I used the Lincoln Mark XIIIII (bein silly here w/number,
not sure the yr, but U get it) MC for a '70
conversion to discs. It didn't need a
redrilling to the fire wall
4 mounting, had more
capacity &
2 reservoirs.

The tilt column came from an '78 F series, econoline (shorter) or bronco for the tilt function and ign switch still on the dash. Love to C pic of yer process, esp the dash changes when done.

Yes it will be a daily driver and we want to be able hop in and go on a road trip when ever the mood strikes. I also have a lot of maverick part from cars I have bought to save them from going to the crusher. As I also have a 1969.5/70 maverick grabber with 250 i6, 1972 comet G.T. and a 1971 vs square back wagon with Bosch fuel injection.

Hi Chad for a carb I'm going to have the one that was on it rebuilt just so we can get it going .but we have been looking at the three deuce mod. I plan on buying the tooling to do complete valve jobs on My milling machine. I'd rather spend money on tools and tooling and do it myself if I can. Once we get it running I'll find another head and mod it then slap it on.