Hood Clearance w/ Edelbrock

For those who don't know... I have a 250 in my 65 mustang. I am using Ron Beyer's motor mounts, and my mechanic (God bless him) re-drilled them to lower the engine as much as possible.

Here is the clearance I currently have... Even with a Shelby hood retrofitted for a '65, I don't think I will have clearance... Short of getting different mounts... Does anyone have any other ideas? I can't lower the carb any further.

As always, thanks in advance!

I'm not familiar with those towers/mounts but you're not alone wid da problem.
I can't tell from the pic (looks like no fenders -besides inners) but in the 1st pic it looks as if the cowl (under the windshield) shows the only problem might B the A/C clearance (the carb'll fit under?)?
I have a bronk (see avatar) so some of the below MAY not work (first 2) but ur welcome to'em:

To Lower a Hood:
Body Lift;
Suspension Lift (yes, wrks on some);
Slot mounts or other custom work (U kinds done the 1st);
Late Maverick Mounts;
Remote A/C, drop base a/c, etc;
Hood Scoop;
Autolite or RBS (other 'low rise') carb;
Mill head for direct mount carb;
A combo of these or all 8 of them?

Some use the hunka clay after the hood is replaces to squish down on the carb to C what's up (protect the boar from the need to clean it out later). I used a spare hood w/ hole to gauge remaining distance. Post more Qs if desired...

Thanks Chad... I did a quick google and I didn't find much on those low-rise carbs... Can you elaborate on those a little?

schaferstephen":1v39l383 said:

Thanks Chad... I did a quick google and I didn't find much on those low-rise carbs... Can you elaborate on those a little?

Click to expand...

Sure, but I may not B the best to do so.
They R 1v carbs so don't 'put out' like ur Eagleb. (210/15 cfm).

They seem 2 B less than 4 inches, I'm not sure how much, hafta go measure (some 1 on here may know).

* The Carter RBS came on several motors (AMC/Ford) & U must ID to assure their for a Ford 250 but '70/4 ford 250 hadem.
* There's alot more varability to the Autolite 1100/1001 (the second is a lill better) but both R still 1v, 215 cfm.
I believe many go with the Autolite 2100 which is a 2V and oneada best made carbs and 'direct mount' them for alot more pep than the 1Vs.

ALSO: hang awhile - some 1 will B along soon w/ideas for your Eagleb. & hood space. U worded the thread title well to attract attention (may B add the '250' as it's got a higher deck).

@Chad,

If I'm not mistaken, Stephen has the CI aluminum head and intake manifold - so one BBL carbs are not an option.

@Stephen,

I didn't have this issue because I made my own custom motor mounts, which I suspect lowered my engine compared to your installation. I know that neither my crossmember (under the oil pan) or sway bar would fit after my engine was mounted, as both interfered with the oil pan as much as the engine was lowered.

If you don't want to go to custom-made motor mounts, then you may have to get a hood with a cowl induction scoop (like the hood on a '67-'69 Ch3vy ... yes, those are made for Fords).

http://www.mustangsplus.com/1965-1966-Mustang-3-Cowl-Induction-Hood.html

That plate your Edelbrock is on looks pretty thick - wonder if that could be machined down?

Thanks
Bob

Hi, is your engine tilting back, lower in the rear, or is that an optical illusion? do you have to raise the tranny mount or lower the front? I would get the angle set and see where your at. Good luck

I have 68 style hood from Mustangs to Fear on my 65. It gives about an inch or so of clearance. Not sure if that is an option for you. I will be using the 72 Maverick engine mounts or making my own if need be.