Father Son 67

mojo67

Active member
Hi!
We are new to the mustang world as well as forum's. We recently purchased a 1967 IL6 3 spd. coupe. My son loves mustang's and we got him a project car for Christmas (he is 16). Of course it has drum brakes on all 4 wheels and 4 lug steel rims. He doesn't like any of the 4 lug rims so we want to change it to 5 lug and disc brakes and drum on the rear. I'm new to the restoring world as well. From what we have been reading the 67 6 cyl. and V8 front wheel spindles are the same from the factory, 4 or 5 lug so converting fronts to disc looks like just deciding on the right package to purchase.
The rear is where my questions are for the most part.
What is the best way that's not going to cost his entire savings?
We plan on keeping the 6 cyl for quite sometime until he can afford to put a V8 in it and change the rear.
Wheel adapters are probably the cheapest way but are they safe?
If I was to change the rear. What makes and years of Ford cars would fit our 67 Coupe?
We've also heard a good machine shop can take our existing 6 cyl axles and convert them from 4 to 5 lug?

We look forward to any advice given from anybody.
thank you in advance!
 
Welcome aboard.
The front spindles are the same for a six or V-8.
The eight inch rear that will fit are the 67-70 V-8 applications. On a stick shift it may require a different rear U-joint to mate up to the 8" rear.
Some of the other forum members have this deal nailed down, so I will bow out.
 
I'm not a stang guy either, plenty here, (1 or more along soon), but I am new to resto-mod.
I learned that buying straight from the well known model specific innumerable after mrkt co.s can get expensive (just go to their sites: mustangs unltd may B the name of 1).
Folks here can tell U bout model match-ups that U can go to the regular suppliers (NAPA is a good'un nationally) to buy more direct brake and suspension upgrades. (I think the 'scarebird' method is the 1 4 frnt discs). The 'junk yard' seems to B the best for an axle upgrade.
U came to the right place for engine mods, they're the best here for the six, it's just our interest is more on the six!

* Tell us a lill more on what U want for final application of the car. Will it B a "show car"? mall crawler? performance oriented? Do U wanna restore it together yourselves? How'd ja settle on the bent8?

As a newbie I found the "Performance Handbook" (Matt at vintage inlines.com) a great help in understanding my bronk (see signature below). Also the Classic Inlines archive listed on each forum's Index page is an incredible resource, click on that (it's more stang oriented). Example: '67 is last yr. for the SCV/LOM feedback system on carb/dizzy. Depending on ur answer to above Qs we can guide U on addressing that/it's on the handbook & CI archive.
Keep talkin - congrats on the project/choice of web assist
AND
W E L C O M E !!!
 
Howdy Mojo:

And welcome. I love the Father/son project. It reminds me of a 1930 Model A project that my Dad and his very eager and very young sons enjoyed for several years. And that led to a lifelong passion for fixing up the old beauties.

I would suggest that you start your project by discussing what the end goal will be as well as steps along the way. That should include a budget. Is it going to be a daily driver as in necessary transportation? Or a project that can sit on jacks for long periods? Is this a Do It Yourself project or will you be investing in professional help. Step one should be a safe, reliable car. While brakes are very important finding the right 5 lug wheel should go on the "want" side of the list, as opposed to the "need" side.

I'd also suggest that you buy a Service Manual for your project and start by getting familiar with what you have.

Anyway, Welcome to The Forum.

Adios, David
 
Welcome Aboard,

As wsa111 stated the spindles are the same on a 67-68 6 cylinder and 8 cylinder. If it were mine I would do a direct swap on the rear differential assembly from a 67 or 68 mustang. I would also do the front disc conversion using parts intended for a 67-68 mustang. The reason behind this is you know that they will fit and there will be no confusion further down the road on exactly what you did when its time to repair or maintain the car.

The 65 Mustang that is in my signature is a Father/Son project that my son used as a daily driver until he went away to college. The key to making it enjoyable for the both of you will be to have some early successes on simple projects. Not having to cobble together a bunch of parts that may or may not be intended to work together can not only be no fun, but it can also be dangerous.

If your son is anything like mine he was all about cruising around town in a cool old car and didn't think about all the work that goes along with driving a classic. I initially failed to realize that his patience level was on a different plane than mine. He was eager and wanted to learn and the project gave us lots of time together. The down side was his level of expectation on how easy things would be caused him to be discouraged at times. A few quick wins in the repair department gave him the confidence to tackle larger projects as they arose.

One of the first safety items that we did was upgrade the headlamps with the 12 volt relay conversion and install LED high visibility tail lamps and turn signal/parking lamps so people could see what his intentions were behind the wheel.

Enjoy the journey and your time with your son. It is irreplaceable.

Kevin
 
I appreciate all the quotes and advice.
Our goals
-We want to Keep it a 6 for quite a while until he can afford to upgrade if he wants to. Which will be quite a few years.  Our other goals are to make it 5 lug with disc brakes at least in the front. 
-It will be a driver in the spring, summer and fall.  no winters of course. My son is not yet into speed and loves old things and keeping
  them as original as possible.
-my stepfather owns a body shop so painting it will be a big savings with him even though he is aging.
- of course we don't want to get to far ahead of ourselves and not be able to finish. 
-I settled on this car cause it was pretty solid and met our needs of not being a car that was too fast for my son as well as being a standard to teach him how to drive one.
- It runs and drives as of now and is pretty solid except for the usual passenger side floor pan, drivers side floor, and right rear outer wheel housing and rear qtr panel.
-We just want to cruise around on the weekends and sometimes during the weeknights. but most of all be a safe and cool looking car 
-
 
more questions???
- If I upgrade to a v8 rear end/axle. Will the 6 cyl leaf springs that I purchased be ok to use to get the old saggy ones out of there, or do I have to use v8 leaf  springs with a v8 rear end???
 
-Are there still plenty of 67-70 v8 axles to choose from out there? or are they getting more rare??? I've searched craigslist and eBay but only have found a few.???

-So you think staying away from Mustangs ulimited and CJpony is a good idea when upgrading and converting the drum to disc brakes?
- I believe I looked at Napa site but maybe i'm not looking at the right spot for the disc brake kit????
 
- If I upgrade to a v8 rear end/axle. Will the 6 cyl leaf springs that I purchased be ok to use to get the old saggy ones out of there, or do I have to use v8 leaf springs with a v8 rear end???

It depends on which springs you bought. There isn't really a six cylinder leaf spring from what I can tell. Did you buy a 4 or 5 leaf spring?

-Are there still plenty of 67-70 v8 axles to choose from out there? or are they getting more rare??? I've searched craigslist and eBay but only have found a few.???

In North Texas they a pretty plentiful. Since you posted that there would not be winter driving I am guessing that you are a little further North than I am .

-So you think staying away from Mustangs ulimited and CJpony is a good idea when upgrading and converting the drum to disc brakes?
- I believe I looked at Napa site but maybe i'm not looking at the right spot for the disc brake kit????

The SBBC kits are nice at either vendor are nice. What I was making reference to were the kits where they sell you a caliper mounting bracket and you mix and match a bunch of parts off of the shelf to come up with a system. Scarebird is the kit that comes to mind that I would stay away from. I would also stay away from the Granada swap because it changes the steering geometry.

I debated on disc brakes for my son's car and decided against them. We did go through his drum brakes and replaced all of the hardware, shoes, wheel cylinders, hoses, drums, bearings and seals and set them up properly. It was important for me at least, for him to have a healthy respect about drum brakes and brake fade in his mind when driving the car. The hope was for him being extra cautious and aware of not just himself but the other cars around him.

I understand the limit on 4 lug wheels out there but there are a lot of other modifications that I would look at before a suspension swap or disc brakes for safety and reliability. The collapsible 68 and up steering column would top the list along with 3 point seat belts if you don't already have them. Some form of electronic ignition would certainly help in the area of reliability.

That's just my 2 cents.

Kevin
 
"...staying away from Mustangs ulimited and CJpony is a good idea…"
no, just that a 'preassembled package" can B more expensive & also not the components U need for ur specific application (which brings me to my usual rant):

It's important (esp when wrking w/"systems" even mechanical ones, but humans, plants, & living systems) to figure, plan, research 1st- and come up wih ur end goal. Do that well & then "go 4 it" w/o change till completion. I've seen too much waisted time & other resources - hack jobs - due to changes, more info, changed budgets, lack of time/interest - resulting in unsatisfactory end results to owners. Use Classic Inlines archive (@ out Index pages - page 1 to each forum on this site) to become familiar w/the vehicle. Order the "Performance Handbook" and come to know the vehicle, motor, suspension, etc. The latter has a great guide to a staged build (drive it now, wrk toward a goal as U go).

Hope that's not too much of a side track…
Stay in touch (over the long term of this build) lotta great guys here, lotta excellent info~
 
what's the difference between seam seal and 100% silicone?

It would be mostly used for the interior where are welder friend is putting in the passenger side floor pan and the driver side floor to firewall piece.
 
mojo67":3616ibkh said:
what's the difference between seam seal and 100% silicone?

It would be mostly used for the interior where are welder friend is putting in the passenger side floor pan and the driver side floor to firewall piece.
seam sealer is polyurethane, and is a lot tougher and adheres better, plus paint will stick to it ;-)
 
Thx Rich.

I guess it pays to use seam sealer then instead of silicone.
I'm guessing it should be primed before it's seam sealed???
 
mojo67":20huz4tm said:
Thx Rich.

I guess it pays to use seam sealer then instead of silicone.
I'm guessing it should be primed before it's seam sealed???

X2 no silicone on the bodywork! Yes the best practice is for the seam sealer going on after its primed. If you plan to use any of the spray on under coating use that too after priming, then paint to seal it up good. (y) :nod:
 
:D
Does anyone know of where we could find a good diagram on line of the clutch, brake and gas pedal assembly of a 67 manual trans. 3spd IL6..We had to remove them so the welder could get up far enough with the floor to firewall piece, didn't have to remove the column. Just wondering about the shaft that goes from the clutch through the brake it was welded on the clutch side. Is this from factory or maybe someone cobbed something up..
Found some diagrams online but nothing great. Any help would be great :help:
 
Next problem.
Recently drove the IL6 home from welder, got pedals back together. It was a warm day in upstate NY 70 degrees. Only about a 6-7 mile drive. I saw the temp guage getting warmer and warmer about 3/4 of the way between cold and hot . When I backed in driveway and shut off noticed anti-freeze leaking. I figured the old radiator gave out but what had happened is a/f was coming out from under the cap, I quickly got a rag and wanted to see if cap was tight and it was, fizzled a little when I tried to tighten. (knowing not to loosen or bad things would happen). The overflow tube is not clogged. Rubber and spring on cap
Anybody got any great advice???? :help:
 
Have the Cap tested to see if it holds pressure or replace it with a new one also make sure that the radiators neck where the cap seats is clean of any dirt or debris. Good luck :nod:
 
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