Fouling plugs on new engine

millerliteliker

New member
I built a 200 6 for my 61 Falcon Ranchero back in 2008. It was a total restoration of this little truck - no expense spared.

I had the short block rebuilt at the local machine shop - they also did the valve job on the head. I assembled everything from that - a complete short block and an assembled head (valves installed after valve job). To be honest, I cannot remember what rings I told them to install.

I assembled the engine and it has run great ever since. One big problem though - the plugs (all 6 of them) continue to get oil fouled very quickly. Now, I have barely driven this car since I finished it. It has probably less than 1,000 miles on the engine since I built it in 2008. My hobby is building cars not driving them. They tend to sit unused after I finish with them.

Still, I have not had this problem with other engines I have built. Does anyone have any idea what the problem might be? Is there a chance that the rings are still not seated and maybe at some point they will be? I have thought about the valve seals too.

Any ideas?

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Its either valve guide clearance & seals or you will have to rehone the cylinder walls to the type of rings you are using.
Also too rich an A/F is washing the cylinder walls???
 
Bill's got some good diagnostic skill:
I like the VG idea, did the valve guide seals match the machining process?
sometimes the machinist makes a pass to eliminate the ol 'umbrella' style guides and the assembler uses the ol style when the newer vintons should B used…?
How many mi (hrs) on the motor. Molly rings "...the cylinder walls to the type of rings…" would require a different machining process but break in quicker…?
 
Hi, there are too many unknowns here. It could be mechanical, but for all 12 valve stem seals or guides to be bad seems unlikely. A leakdown or compresion test will give you more information. One thing I see is Pertronix ignition. Are you sure you have the correct spark plugs, and did you open the gap to .045 ? I would try a hotter plug. I would go with the original resistor style plugs, no modern platinum or multi tip stuff. Does your coil have 12 volts going to it like it should or is it still on the resistor wire at only 6 or so volts. Are you using a Pertronix coil or stock, and is it wired correctly, + from key, and - to distributor. I might try a new Pertronix coil just to see. As off the wall as it sounds, it may have something to do with your road draft. They really only work at higher speeds because the airflow past the tube draws out crankcase vapor. If you do not take it for a nice drive you do not ventilate the crankcase. I would have gone to a PCV system from the 200. Good luck
 
B RON CO":19dv752x said:
Hi, there are too many unknowns here. It could be mechanical, but for all 12 valve stem seals or guides to be bad seems unlikely. A leakdown or compresion test will give you more information. One thing I see is Pertronix ignition. Are you sure you have the correct spark plugs, and did you open the gap to .045 ? I would try a hotter plug. I would go with the original resistor style plugs, no modern platinum or multi tip stuff. Does your coil have 12 volts going to it like it should or is it still on the resistor wire at only 6 or so volts. Are you using a Pertronix coil or stock, and is it wired correctly, + from key, and - to distributor. I might try a new Pertronix coil just to see. As off the wall as it sounds, it may have something to do with your road draft. They really only work at higher speeds because the airflow past the tube draws out crankcase vapor. If you do not take it for a nice drive you do not ventilate the crankcase. I would have gone to a PCV system from the 200. Good luck

I AM using the Pertronix coil. I checked the voltage at the coil with the engine running at idle and got 11.87 volts. In regard to spark plugs, I am just running the stock plug (at least what is called for a 200 6 cylinder). I may try one a little hotter and check that gap.

thanks.
 
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