144 Progress

adamscm

Well-known member
Well, I FINALLY got my short block back--Today, my son and I painted the block, added water pump, fuel pump, generator, flywheel, and clutch. I decided to put in new motor mounts, so I'm picking them up this evening, and we're ready to install. I'm putting the head on after installation--trying that this time to see if it's easier.
 

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not sure Y you'd put the head on after (plenty room).
I'd carb clean (on a rag) the deck'n ducktape it till ready,
but U didn't ask
:oops:
 
I always install the head later. It saves a lot of time installing starter, headers if clearance is an issue. Makes it a lot easier.
You can get to the bell housing a lot easier with out the head in the way. Plus you don't have to hoist the engine so high to clear the radiator cross bar.
 
It looks like progress is being made! Good luck on the install. Did you go with a new cam as well or just pistons/rings and bearings?
 
Yes, the reason I'm going "headless" is that I think it will make it easier to drop in and stab the transmission. Plus, it's nicely level using the head bolt holes for the chains. With head on, and chains on the block sides (and no leveler) it can get unruly--I have experience! And yes, I've covered the deck/cylinders until I'm ready for it. I ended up going .030 over and a new cam came with the kit. I might be pushing 100 hp!
 
wsa111":9cvo50uj said:
I always install the head later. It saves a lot of time installing starter, headers if clearance is an issue. Makes it a lot easier.
You can get to the bell housing a lot easier with out the head in the way. Plus you don't have to hoist the engine so high to clear the radiator cross bar.
"...Yes, the reason I'm going "headless" is that I think it will make it easier to drop in and stab the transmission. Plus, it's nicely level using the head bolt holes for the chains. With head on, and chains on the block sides (and no leveler) it can get unruly--I have experience! And yes, I've covered the deck/cylinders until I'm ready for it. I ended up going .030 over and a new cam came with the kit. I might be pushing 100 hp!…"
Kouwell!
Not 2 ol 2 learn frm U guys (ford6)!

BTW: what's the cam specs?
 
Ok, Here's where we are as of Monday, 12:30 pm Central:
Engine is in, bolted to bell, motor mounts. After lunch, the head
 

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Glad im not the only weirdo that installed the motor without the head on :LOL: just a mention those heads are ridiculously heavy i hope your sons got some extra muscle i about threw out my back putting my head on, also if you don't have studs to help guide the head and gasket in place, make some it makes life much much easier

With regards,
Darrian
 
It's looking good! I agree with cutting the heads off of a couple of old head bolts to use as guide studs when installing the cylinder head. I used two of the ones from your old 200 when putting the head on Garrett's car. I am guessing that you are using a modern composite gasket instead of the steel shim so no copper coat spray will be necessary.

It might be making smoke by this evening. Be sure to allow for the cooling system to purge all of the air out before going for a real shakedown drive. I was too quick to assume that all of the air was out when working on mine. You might want to drill a small hole in the body of the thermostat to help with the coolant refill.

Thank You for keeping us posted!

Kevin
 
Well, I'm not making smoke yet, but the block, head valve train, and some other parts are installed. I quit for the day to take care of some other chores. Yes, I thought about guide studs...had a little trouble getting the gasket to stay lined up, but I was able to lower the head almost to the block, slide the gasket between, and drop the bolts through and start them before lowering the head the whole way. Studs would have been easier, though. I'll work on it in bits after work each night this week and probably fire up on the weekend. For you Ford guys, yes, yellow and black is correct for Mercury.
 

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Thnx 4 da pic!
8) :cool:
interesting fuel pump, will U can the 'water choke' ? got the cam specs 4 us?
 
Chad, just leaving everything original, even the cam is supposed to be original specs--rocker arm/valve stem clearance is almost the same as before, even before adjusting, maybe a bit tighter, so cam must be similar. The outlets on top of the fuel pump are for the vacuum wipers. The only differences that might make this motor a little stronger are:
1). Larger, newer exhaust manifold and pipe
2). .030 over bore
3). Holley 1940 carb. I'll keep the updates coming
 
adamscm":2yt2kk14 said:
...everything original, even the cam is supposed to be original specs--... The outlets on top of the fuel pump are for the vacuum wipers...I'll keep the updates coming
Kouwell, I'm subscribed! interested, & patient!
(y)
Thanks, esp 4 pic~
 
I find it odd that our fuel pumps operates as a fuel pump and vacuum pump but the falcons dont, how are they running their wipers? Also where did you find the info on the original engine paint scheme?

Regards,
Darrian
 
super4ord":3ohgynof said:
Maybe I just can't see it in the pics you posted, but do you not have a steel block plate behind the flywheel to go between the block and bell housing? Usually they are there to ensure correct alignment of the starter for engaging the flywheel teeth. I know that some are one piece and some are two piece. Just wondering???

Darrell

Hi Darrell, The very early Falons and Comets engines like this 144 & the first 170's (1960 to 61) didn't use a steel / tin block plate. The bell housing is made differently (its cast iron I think) to provide the correct alignment. Good luck :nod:
 
Yep, No plate on back of block. Don't know about Falcon wipers...the line eventually goes to manifold vacuum, but the theory is that the fuel pump diaphragm creates some extra vacuum. Doesn't work well, though--when you step on the gas and lose vacuum, your wipers stop! As far as paint, it had some original color on it, then I researched online and and in some literature--even found the Ditzler paint code. The pic you see is very close, although my other valve cover (with pcv valve that I had been using) is brighter and prettier, but not as accurate. Haven't decided if I want to use a pcv or not (it isn't original, but it gets rid of fumes)
 
62Cometman":3toh6hcs said:
I find it odd that our fuel pumps operates as a fuel pump and vacuum pump but the falcons dont, how are they running their wipers? Also where did you find the info on the original engine paint scheme?

Regards,
Darrian

Hi 62Cometman, As far as I remember both the early Comets and Falcons would have used those same fuel pumps (vacuum pump on top). Info is a little harder to find on factory correct engine colors for these Comets and early Mercury's but here goes. Back in the day Fords and Mercurys of the 1940's 50's and up until the end of the 1965 model year. They had the engines painted different colors according to the model brand they were installed in, one reason was so that the service techs could quickly ID the engines by the their color.

Factory Engine Colors for those Restoring a 1960 Comet and the 1961 to 65 Mercury Comets Inline Sixes
All the 144, 170, and 200 engines built for the model years 1960 to 1965 where as follows. The assembled long blocks are painted in Semi Gloss Black this includes the block, head, oil pan, timing cover, water pump, ect. The Valve Cover and Air Cleaner were painted separately in these colors 1960 to 63 144 Sixes were Yellow, the 1961 to 1965 170 Sixes was Argent (Silver), and the 200's 1964 to 65 were painted Ivory (White). The valve cover Breather Cap was painted Semi Gloss Black the Valve Cover Bolts were not painted left a (Natural Metal).

Factory Engine Colors for those Restoring a 1960 to 1965 Falcon or a 1964 !/2 to 1965 Mustang
For the Falcons the long blocks were also painted in the same Semi Gloss Black and the detailing was the same with these exceptions, the 1960 to 63 the 144 Valve Cover and Air Cleaner was painted Medium Ford Blue, the 1961 to 65 170 Valve Cover and Air Cleaner was Red / Orange, the 1964 to 65 200 Valve Cover and Air Cleaner combo was a dark Red.

Factory Engine Colors for those Restoring the latter cars 1966 to 1968 the engines were painted Medium Ford Blue. In 1969 up the color changed again to a Dark Corperate Ford Blue.
Good luck :nod:
 
adamscm":foqpm4l1 said:
Well, I'm not making smoke yet, but the block, head valve train, and some other parts are installed. I quit for the day to take care of some other chores. Yes, I thought about guide studs...had a little trouble getting the gasket to stay lined up, but I was able to lower the head almost to the block, slide the gasket between, and drop the bolts through and start them before lowering the head the whole way. Studs would have been easier, though. I'll work on it in bits after work each night this week and probably fire up on the weekend. For you Ford guys, yes, yellow and black is correct for Mercury.

:beer: That's some very nice detailing on your 144 engine adamscm, (y)
 
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