Planning a 1967 200ci Project Performance Build, Help needed

ABrescia

New member
1965 Mustang Coupe with original 200ci engine 8.5" clutch 3 spd.

Replacing the 3 spd with 5 speed and have a 67 200ci engine with 9" clutch to replace the original engine.
This car is a weekend / daily driver but since I am rebuilding the 67 I want to increase the performance.

The 1st step is to send the block off to my machine shop. Without know if I am going to order an aluminum head (waiting list) or find a large log or machine the existing head , can I decide on what I need done on the block?

.30 over bore Cam - 264 to 274 degree hydraulic aftermarket cam Cast pistons (flat ?)

I'm thinking something on Level three style build ci/HopUpYourSix.html

The other part of planning I'm confused with is the gains of the Aluminum head (expensive) compared to finding a 1969 or newer large log head. I'm eager to get started but want to be sure that I have planned the best path to give the marching orders to the machine shop for the block work.

Andy B.
 
Howdy Andy:

And, If I haven't said it before, Welcome to The Forum. It sounds like you are in the planning stages of this project. So, as usual, I have a couple of questions and some advice. Do you have a more specific CR goal than 9 to 9.5:1, as recommended on the CI site? Knowing your goal CR will help us be more specific in recommends. What is you elevation where you will be doing most of your driving of this engine? What octane gasoline is available to you.

In general, the Aluminium head is getting very scarce and expensive. It is a performer. It real asset is an intake that gets a much better distribution of intake fuel. It really shines at rpm levels well above what is available from a log head. The trade off is dollars (lots of dollars). A well done log head from D8xx and later, can get pretty impressive performance compared to stock. The level III mods to the head gets it all- except for CR. Typically, head milling and/or chamber shaping is the last piece to your goal CR. So, first, select what piston dish you desire. Next determine deck height. This is reference to decking, or milling the top of the block to true and/or improving Quench effect. GIven this information, do the math to guesstimate the mill cut to achieve your goal CR.

Lots to consider, but most important, enjoy the trip. Take your time and be realistic. Oh, and keep us posted on your plan and your progress.

Adios, David
 
Yes, what is the final application?
Go 4 that from the begining, stay true thru out da build, that produces best results (so plenty research 1st).
/OR/
a staged build as laid out in 'the Handbook".
U DO have it. no?
 
the combination is good for the street, but unless you are willing to put up with some compromises, not a good daily driver. some people dont mind a bit of a lumpy idle, and soft low end power. be sure to get the rear end gear right, at least a 3.55 - 3.73 gear. you dont want too much rear gear otherwise first gear tends to be a bit useless, but you need enough to get the vehicle rolling along with traffic. the overdrive will be nice on the highway though.

just remember any questions you have, ask them, regardless of how stupid they might sound. better to ask a stupid question than make a stupid and costly mistake.
 
It is good to see more Mustangs showing up on the forum and you have one of my favorites the 65. If it was my project I would have every part on hand before any machine work. And the final plan. Start looking for a large log head right now though as they are getting hard to come buy and the first one you buy might fail when sonic tested. These are old parts. I like the t5 plan the od gives you good legs on the highway. It is a sports car trans suited for the Mustang. Consider getting a copy of the Falcon Performance Handbook it is a valuable resource, if I haven't mentioned it already.
 
Thanks for all the replies, lots of info to help my planning.

1. Connecticut is 500 elevation and we have access to 87 - 9X octane. I have not determined my CR yet.
2. After seeing what I need to look at, I am reading my Ford Falcon Performance handbook with a better understanding !
3. It looks like my best route is to look for a 250ci head and spend my money on other parts of the rebuild instead of the aluminum head.

From the book it looks like I should be looking for this head >>>
Ford inline straight 6 250ci cylinder head 1977-1980 The 250ci head would have the 4 bolt water pump on it excluding heads with D8BE 6015-GE casting ?

4. Flat pistons for higher compression.
After I get the head and pick the pistons and cam then I should be ready to machine the block, sounds right ?

Andy B.
 
Any of the largish log heads can be just as good, starting with the '69 M heads...
Waterpump bolts to the block, not head, there is no difference between a 200 and 250 head...

ABrescia":mj8ic3q2 said:
Thanks for all the replies, lots of info to help my planning.

1. Connecticut is 500 elevation and we have access to 87 - 9X octane. I have not determined my CR yet.
2. After seeing what I need to look at, I am reading my Ford Falcon Performance handbook with a better understanding !
3. It looks like my best route is to look for a 250ci head and spend my money on other parts of the rebuild instead of the aluminum head.

From the book it looks like I should be looking for this head >>>
Ford inline straight 6 250ci cylinder head 1977-1980 The 250ci head would have the 4 bolt water pump on it excluding heads with D8BE 6015-GE casting ?

4. Flat pistons for higher compression.
After I get the head and pick the pistons and cam then I should be ready to machine the block, sounds right ?

Andy B.
 
Hi, I am getting ready to install a late head which has been modified to accept a Ford or Holley 2 barrel carb. There are pictures of it on here somewhere from last fall. The post is Goodbye old head, hello new. Something you can consider. Good luck
 
Howdy Back Andy:

To clarify- the water pump goes on the block- not the head. The 4 bolt water pump is one of several differences between a 200 and a 250 block.

Look for a D7xx (1977 model year) and later. These heads will have the biggest valves, a 1.75" carb hole, a stock chamber of 62 ccs, induction hardened valve seats and good intake tract volume. All heads, post D0xx will have 62 cc chambers.

Starting with the 1970 model year 200 and 250 heads are identical. THe '69 "M" castings were unique, but have smaller intake valves than later heads. At that time, the 'M' heads were the deal because of the flat-topped log, making them easier to modify for a 2 barrel carb.

Be sure to price compare on the flat-topped and small dished piston. If there is a big price difference go with the less expensive. You will be able to attain any CR you want by decking the block to zero and milling the head up to .075". AND- dished pistons are more knock resistant, milling drops the valves deeper into the chambers and decking the block to zero will improve the quench effect. Check it out.

With the cam spec range you've selected you will want as much CR as possible to offset the loss of low rpm power. When selecting a cam for a street engine more is NOT always better. IIWIYS, I'd be looking at one of the dual pattern cams in the 264 intake/274 exhaust duration with about .450" lift. A cam like this will lower cylinder pressure allowing a little more CR.

GIven you elevation and available gas octane I'd recommend a CR goal of about 9.25:1. With a properly recurved distributor centrifugal advance, close attention to the initial advance and a properly jetted and tuned carb you could bump that CR recommend up a bit more.

I would also agree with your choice of a stock type modified head for your goals and purpose. So, keep it coming and don't forget to prepare to plan.

Adios, David
 
Water pump on the block ? Imagine that ! My wording got screwy because of the craigs list ad I created looking for a 250ci head. I didn't want anyone calling me with a 200ci engine. After changing enough water pumps over the years I should have caught that !!

Andy B.
 
ABrescia":301w09kt said:
Water pump on the block ? Imagine that ! My wording got screwy because of the craigs list ad I created looking for a 250ci head. I didn't want anyone calling me with a 200ci engine. After changing enough water pumps over the years I should have caught that !!

Andy B.
later 200 and 250 heads are exactly the same, just saying...
 
RichCreations":3pbz6vs5 said:
ABrescia":3pbz6vs5 said:
Water pump on the block ? Imagine that ! My wording got screwy because of the craigs list ad I created looking for a 250ci head. I didn't want anyone calling me with a 200ci engine. After changing enough water pumps over the years I should have caught that !!

Andy B.
later 200 and 250 heads are exactly the same, just saying...
X3 (y)
 
drag-200stang":tx79kanq said:
RichCreations":tx79kanq said:
ABrescia":tx79kanq said:
Water pump on the block ? Imagine that ! My wording got screwy because of the craigs list ad I created looking for a 250ci head. I didn't want anyone calling me with a 200ci engine. After changing enough water pumps over the years I should have caught that !!

Andy B.
later 200 and 250 heads are exactly the same, just saying...
X3 (y)

Ok, that clears things up. I was wondering why the heads for later years are listed as 200/250. So I need to be searching by the year >>> 1977 and up and using the casting code to be sure.

Andy B.
 
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