Best gasket/sealant procedure for cast valve cover

Eric Rose

Famous Member
Hey all

I got a cast aluminum valve cover from Vintage Inlines recently. Beautiful piece. Now I'm looking at how to seal it. My previous installations of stamped steel covers have always leaked. I use the nice re-usable rubber gaskets on engines that I can get them for but it seems like cork is the only option for the ford six. I'm also using studs instead of bolts so it'll line up easier.

I've seen people say spray the cover side with 3m spray adhesive and tack it on to the cover and that's all that needed. No selant between the gasket and the cylinder head. I don't know how to feel about that?

Also seen people say this method works: Thin layer of RTV between cover and gasket. snug the bolts and leave it on a few hours til it's dry. Then do the a bead between the gasket and head and leave it just snug for a few hours, then torque it when the rtv has dried.

Also been hearing how permatex #2 is better than RTV. And still others say just put cork gaskets on dry. :shock:

It's one of those questions where you get 5 different answer and none of them are "wrong". But every application is different so if anyone has a method that has been proven to work with the ford six engines I'm all ears.
 
i prefer to glue the gasket, regardless of whether it is cork or rubber, to the valve cover with 3M weather strip adhesive, and let it set before installing the valve cover. i like to use valve cover bolts to hold the gasket in place while the adhesive sets up to make sure the bolt holes line up properly in the end.

i have never had a leak using that procedure, except once early on when i over torqued the valve cover bolts and split the cork gasket i was using at the time.
 
Hi, I feel a lot of guys over tighten the bolts and that causes their problems. Just go gently snug and see how that turns out. Good luck
 
X3 I also glue the gasket to the valve cover, then you can usually remove it once or twice if needed without damaging it. Most problems that people have with gaskets for valve covers and oil pans is from over tightening the bolts and damaging the gasket or pushing it out. Good luck :nod:
 
:unsure: RE:Over tightening .The easiest way that I have found to cure that is to get some studs and Nylock type nuts and use that method to do the install.Lightly snug the nuts,and forget them.
The studs that I have used have Allen type ends,which make it very easy to install them.And remove them if necessary.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
Leo, I like your stud method. X4 on gluing rubber gasket to cover. The best of both worlds.
 
I'll chime in on this as well. The rubber valve cover gaskets are available for the ford six. I have one on mine with the classic inlines aluminum cover. I also glue the gasket to the cover( I use ultra grey rtv ) and, as others have said, do not overtighten the bolts. Never any sealer between the gasket and the head. I have a solid lifter cam and I have that valve cover off regularly to adjust the valves and it never leaks...ever. ;)
 
:D Hi Bill.Yeah,that stud setup is great.Have been using that for about 50 years.That was before
Nylocks as IIRC.Started using Nylocks when they first came out.Have`nt looked back.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
ledslinger29":2tnbhgy9 said:
Does anyone have a source for the rubber valve cover gasket?
Advance Auto Parts has the Felpro brand, make sure you get the rubber one as they also offer cork.
 
woodbutcher":39vki7f4 said:
:unsure: RE:Over tightening .The easiest way that I have found to cure that is to get some studs and Nylock type nuts and use that method to do the install.Lightly snug the nuts,and forget them.
The studs that I have used have Allen type ends,which make it very easy to install them.And remove them if necessary.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
Leo where did you purchase the studs???
 
:unsure: Hmmmmmmmmmmmm any number of places.Such as the local mine supply,Ace hardware,the old NAPA store in Fl where I grew up.Lowes or any big box store should have them also.Any decent hardware store.AND,I bet MacMaster/Carr too.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
I'm running studs too. I got them so many years ago that I forgot where I sourced them from though. I have wide washers (triangle shaped) as well, to help even out the pressure.
 
:banghead: Also forgot to mention the OLD Sears stores in the hardware dept.Also machine shops of the time were a good source of odd ball stuff.Might also try aircraft and marine supply outlets.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
I couldn't find the studs anywhere local. Checked all the brick & mortar places like parts stores, Tractor Supply, hardware stores, etc and couldn't find anything that would work. I looked them up on McMaster Carr but with the cost of the studs and shipping it was cheaper just to go with ARP on Ebay. Found a set at a good price with free shipping.

There's a place in my hometown that carries all this stuff cheap, but it's 100 miles away.
 
So I ordered ARP studs, it turns out they wouldn't work because the clearance on the sides where it's indented is very tight, too tight for a wrench or a socket for the nut. So I went with T-bolts. I would think a socket head cap screw that takes an allen key would also work.
 
Eric Rose":3fmdjcie said:
So I ordered ARP studs, it turns out they wouldn't work because the clearance on the sides where it's indented is very tight, too tight for a wrench or a socket for the nut. So I went with T-bolts. I would think a socket head cap screw that takes an allen key would also work.

Yes that's exactly why Ford used a special made (smaller head size than normal) valve cover bolt. Glad you found a workable solution. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
so on the steel VC the tabs that go under the nuts (non-OEM used as 'protecters' to reduce bending of VC) R a good idea?
(Not needed on the cast - as in this application).
For here I'd just glue the feldpro to the VC, use a T handled allen for quarter twenty sucker headed bolts?
 
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