Flat spot with a Carter YF?

Asa

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At the point where I can drive my car daily. Recognized an issue, though. When driving I've got a definite flat spot at quick accel. Easing into it isn't an issue, but flooring it causes a massive stumble.

Its been a while since I've messed with a carbed system, but I'm thinking it's the accelerator pump? I was fairly careful when I rebuilt this carb, though and followed the instructions in the kit to the letter. Anything else I can check before I mess with the accel pump (because it is inside the fuel bowl of the carburetor and has all it's adjustments in there.)

'67 Mustang, 200ci converted to a T5. DS II ignition with a GM HEI brains. I think the YF carb was from a '70s F100?
 
needle/seat & filter might B easier?
After a rebuilt these should B good so not sure...
 
Evan, seat all the check balls, check float level, clean discharge nozzle I forget if the YF has stroke adjustment.
 
Howdy Back Asa and all:

Has anything changed in the ignition since the carb swap? What engine in the F100? When looking down the carb throat can you see a squirt of gas when the go pedal is mashed? Just some thoughts to check.

If the answer to the 1st question is "No" and if the answer to the 2nd question is 240, you should be good to go. If it is from a 300 engine some adjustments and ignition tuning may be necessary. It may be bogging.

If the answer to the 3rd question is yes? You will definitely need some tuning. If the answer is no, you've found your problem. Fix is inside.

Adios, David
 
CZLN6":3015t91b said:
Howdy Back Asa and all:

Has anything changed in the ignition since the carb swap? What engine in the F100? When looking down the carb throat can you see a squirt of gas when the go pedal is mashed? Just some thoughts to check.

If the answer to the 1st question is "No" and if the answer to the 2nd question is 240, you should be good to go. If it is from a 300 engine some adjustments and ignition tuning may be necessary. It may be bogging.

If the answer to the 3rd question is yes? You will definitely need some tuning. If the answer is no, you've found your problem. Fix is inside.

Adios, David
Hey guys, thanks for the replies

1) Settings on the dizzy, no. I think I had one of the HEI modules go out at some point and I might've done cap, rotor, wires, and plugs, but I don't think I've loosened the dizzy since.... I was in DC, honestly. So this time in '06. Can't see how tune up stuff would change it?

2) Likely a 300. Junkyard find, didn't know to look for a 240 carb. What stuff needs to change? Is there a thread covering it already? (He said, knowing there likely was. What I mean is do you have a link telling what I need to do?)

3) Dunno, will check tomorrow afternoon.

For the other comments, needle valve might be an issue. Been noticing a LOT of... powder? residue? from ethanoled fuels when they've evaporated. Sorta a waxy build up? I could see that gumming something up.

Once I get to the point where I pop the cap I'll check everything else out inside.

Thanks guys.
 
even the peddle to carb linkage...
 
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72607&p=562727#p562727
xctasy":1z9he1oi said:
Oh, I was wrong, there are those 26 Mikes Carbs Main Metering Jet sizes, plus others. The metering rods won't work with every one, but most 75 series rods will. There are some exceptions.



The best universal main jet kit reference is the 600 series Edelbrock 4-bbl main jets. They are marked with a three-digit part number that indicates the diameter of the metering orifice. Jet sizes starting with a 3 are smaller than 0.100 inch; jets beginning with a 4 are larger than 0.100 inch, so this 389 jet has an 0.089-inch orifice.:-

Main jets:
Size: Carter: Edelbrock:
.083 120-383 1422
.086 120-386 1423
.089 120-389 1424
.092 120-392 1425
.098 120-398 1427
.101 120-401 1429
.104 120-404 1430
.107 120-407 1431
.110 120-410 1432

.113 120-413 1433
.116 120-416 1434


I've underlines the 98 to 110 thou main jets, as one of these will likely be what you have now.

Mikes Carbs uses the common earlier Older Carter reference of

120-160 = .091",
120-166 = .0935",
120-155 = .096",
120-170 =.102,
120-161 =.104 etc


Reducing the annular radius exposed at a given vaccum point makes the carb leaner, so you will most likely be best measuring what you have, and then finding a valid other needle that is known to be leaner. Its easier to start lean, and then have it mechined back via a needle file if you can't get the right metering rod.

If that's not an option for you, then you will need to find the replacement Ford small six metering rod and main jet. Or just a metering rod at the very least. One company, Black Hawk Engineering , does YH Turbo F85 JetFire and Corvair Monza YH reprofiles, the web info they have will help you arrive at the right air fuel ratio for the price of baselined air fuel ratio measurement. with you current set up.

I'm picking that you'll be able to find any Carter YFA metering rod to suit, and you'll then be able to use there annualr area charts to adjust the air fuel ratio.

Black Hawk Engineering do a reprofilr service for sub 94 thou jets

"Choose dimensions for a new rod

If you have measured air/fuel ratio numbers for cruise and power, you can adjust the flow areas proportionately. For example, if you have a power A/F ratio of 11 to 1 and you would like to have a ratio of 12 to 1, the ratio is 11 divided by 12 or .92. If your current power flow area is 300, multiply .92 times 300 equals 276. Look in the General tables for the jet size you are using and find the flow area closest to 276. Then read the corresponding metering rod diameter. Do the same type of calculations for the cruise step.

Our current manufacturing process is limited to diameters of .054 to .094". If the metering rod you want falls outside of this range, you will have to choose another jet size to find a combination that works. The available jet sizes are .077, .080, .083, .086, .089, .092, .095, .098, .101, .104, .107, .110, .113, .116 and .119"


That then means tracking down a common junked Jeep 258, 2.5 liter I4, Ford 0HC 2.3, 170/200/250/240/300 jet. You'll get lucky enough form this...I'll help out, its just math. You'll just have to warm up your car up for 10 minutes, and get C02 readings or air fuel readings from a test station at Cruise and Power; as well, an IM test at load would be a good first start.


Then its just find and measure a jet that will lean the mixture off enough, and recheck it.

http://www.blackhawkengr.com/

http://www.blackhawkengr.com/Black%20Ha ... ustom.html


The way to work out the difference is from a known base on one of these charts with the same main metering jet.

http://www.blackhawkengr.com/General%20 ... Tables.pdf


You wont need the first 17 main jet sizes from Mikes Carbs, they are just 54 to 96 thou. Somewhere between 98 to 120 will be the possible, with 98 to 110 being the best options I'd say. One of which you may have right now.

Carter YF carbs begin to appear in 1967 on California emissions equipped engines.
By 1970 it was standard on 170's and 200's. They were rated at 150 CFM on 170 c.i. engines and 187 CFM on 200's. The YF carb was also used on the 250 engine from 1975 -79. The 250 version of the YF was rated at 195 CFM. It remained the "small six" carb until 1977 on the 200 and 1980 on the 250, and the permanant 240/300 carb from 1969 till the death of the 1-bbl F150 in 1987.

Some ballpark details from Big Sixes.

1979 Manual F150 Replacement from Ford for that year was nothing for Ford Dealer Main jet (no size diameter given) but it was part C8AZ-9533-A, and that pegs it as a C8 jet of 104 to 110, with 106 most likely.

Idle adjusting needle (assumed to be metering rod) D7PZ-9541-A (no sizes given)

For one 1979 Manual F150 4.9 Bix Six:-
Main jet is 0.1056 inches;
numbers on top face of brass main jet appear to be 120-410;
Brass metering rod number is numbered #75-2346 (which I can't find on the list)
Diameter of metering rod is 0.040 inches at tip going into main jet;
0.054 inches at second taper on metering rod,
0.815 inches on main shaft near top of rod (all measurements with digital caliper)

Other 1979 YFA carbs have been
Main Jet 0.107dia inside
numbers on top face of brass main jet appear to be 120-407;
Brass metering rod number is numbered #75-217sic (which could only be a #75-2175 or 75-2176)
No accurate dimensions exist for a so called 217


The 75-2189 was a valid metering rod on that table well.



On a Jeep, a 120-166 main jet @ .0935" would use a 75-1570 metering rod for 65 net flywheel hp.

Form LZJW 98 to 110 are valid main jet sizes.

D2 prefix are all for 1972 engines;
the only D2 carb showing for a 72 300 has a main jet of .110",
all the rest (four) are for 240's,
three of which call for a .104" jet
and the fourth one is .101".

Stock, the C8 prefix show a main jet of .104".(69 240 [.104"] with a carb tag # C8UF-M)
Smallest Big Six YFA jet listed is .098" (one model only) and the biggest is .110


Try sourcing a replacement metering rod and 98 main jet from Mikes Carbs for carb tag 1969 240 F100 carb tag # C8UF-M:-


The common ones for a way too small 134 cubic inch I4 65 hp net Jeep are:-
Carter Main Jets
Main Metering Jet
120-155 = .096"
120-160 = .091"
120-166 = .0935"

But I'm pretty sure you won't need to change what is there at all...



These two posts help best.

motzingg":1z9he1oi said:
yep, its pretty simple. they are basic little carbs.

navigate to the link if the image doesn't display correctly:
http://oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/ ... 19_jpg.jpg


i'm pretty sure its just a 'low speed jet' and a 'metering rod jet' but the 'metering rod' is also a tuning component, you might have a mis-matched metering rod (us motorcycle guys call them a 'needle') and jet.

here is the metering rod assembly.

If you buy a rebuild kit, they usually have that pic i attached printed out for you on a big sheet of paper, still might want to take photos of the stages of carb disassembly while you are doing it, however. Here is a picture i took from when i did mine.

DSC01721.JPG



THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER":1z9he1oi said:
Before changing jets I would try the metering rod adjustment. It has always fixed any YF mixture issues I've seen. The screw in the background raises and lowers the tapered rod in the jet. Raising it will fatten up the part throttle mixture without fattening up the WOT mixture, which I suspect is not too lean anyway. Plug readings at WOT mnust be taken after running the engine at WOT and not letting it come back down to idle while running or the WOT reading will be affected.

Modern plugs will tolerate a leaner mixture and may look white, even though the mixture is correct. This is especially noticeable on fuel injected engines.

My buddy John would always send his driver (aka his wife) down the track with a ratchet plug wrench and a spare plug. She would kill the engine at WOT, coast to a stop, change the plug in question, and bring the unsullied plug back to the pits for inspection. He was an absolute wizard at tuning Weber IR systems.
 
X, I think you meant to quote some of that, but leave some of it as statements from you? I'm trying to go back between the thread you linked to and this one and see what the differences are.

Looks like you're saying it's likely a metering rod and/or jet issue? I might be able to adjust it out with just the metering rod adjustments, but I might have to rejet it as well?
 
The whole barmitsvah, you got it....didn't want you to be caught short.


Re jet last. FTF find that most people don't realise the phillips screw is an adjustment point on YFA's


Ford does a horrible miss-match of Autolite 1100, Holley 1940, Holley 1946 and Carter YFA info. Fords not negligent in detail, it just makes some basic technical ability assumptions and common sense statements that just aren't present.

Some parts are not named, the parts (like ball check and weighted pins or emissions equipment )that should be there are not given inventory, and any time a selective response is given, it fails to give important information. Same with jets. I've spent 3 years trying to find the 72 hp 2.0 liter truck needle profile...the info just insn't there.

The service technicians can chime in on this one.

The amount of "my I6 1-bbl won't idle has a flat spot, makes a funny hissin noise"....well just sayin', it makes up the lions share of tuning posts.


viewtopic.php?t=71723

From post #5 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Mon Mar 31, 2014.

We're talking about the black Phillips screw in the picture. Even in motzingg's Image19_jpg post, the screw is not named or given a label.

Note that its not uncommon for a triad other problems


1. funny stuff to be in the exhaust or

2. inlet fuel line and in both cases, a fuel pressure gauge should be used to ensure the backpressure isn't above 6 psi at 4000 rpm.

DV_page_84_fig%205_9_10_11_Exhaust_Backpressue_Determinations.jpg


You do that by braising in 1/8" fuel pressure fitting in the exhaust by oxy acetaline. Or a narrow or wide band HEGO sensor with the same size as a spark plug, and get an adaptor and check it for backpressue the same time.


Dropping the header tube doesn't quite work...it just makes the engine noisy and doesn't help you.

You can waste a lot of time tuning and engine with the wrong check weights or not adjusting that pesky phillips screw.


I spent two years devanning cars from the USA for New Zeland customers.

The 3rd problem?

Murky Fuel lines and tanks, tank and line varnish and vac lines that aren't vac lines anymore, hardened or blocked to distibutor fittings.


Spittle bugs and varmin ingress they often have it.

If after a basic fiddle you don't get lucky, look to the distributor basics, and then make darn sure you don't have one of the problems 1, 2 and 3.
 
Blast it.
The school's Formula SAE team got rid of a gas analyzer last year. I wish I had known it could have been useful, I would have grabbed it from the trash.

I do hear a sort of hissing noise, I figured that was the carb sucking air, is it actually an issue? It goes away with the air filter installed.

Is FTF's advice here for raising the rod the same for my situation? What's a good starting point, one full turn?
THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER":3ilbj1hf said:
Before changing jets I would try the metering rod adjustment. It has always fixed any YF mixture issues I've seen. The screw in the background raises and lowers the tapered rod in the jet. Raising it will fatten up the part throttle mixture without fattening up the WOT mixture, which I suspect is not too lean anyway. Plug readings at WOT mnust be taken after running the engine at WOT and not letting it come back down to idle while running or the WOT reading will be affected.
 
Metering rod adjustment, 3.36 min video....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yIADJ3WmTcQ


Torx like star screw on some. Screw down so it just touches when the meetering rod is bottomed out with your thumb.



Then turn it down 1 turn.

Thats it for the ALUMINUM THROOTLE BODY YFA.






Do two things with 160 bux if you don't buy second hand.


Color tune spark plug to set idle air fuel. How fat or thin you go is based on what you see

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9t8XhFlKbk


it will still give you a picture of what is happening inside the cylinder. But with modern fuels I find the color scale is off. when i tuned to what Gunson says is a good colored flame, all other tests indicated a too lean condition. So I still use it for tuning, but I don't shoot for an all blue color anymore.

colors from test 3 are what you are dialing for.

https://www.kzrider.com/media/kunena/at ... esized.JPG

Then put in a Bosch 11027 Oxygen Sensor, Universal Type Fitment narrow band o2 sensor

with a Sunpro CP8200 StyleLine Air/Fuel Ratio White Dial reader.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocB-FyNRtgE

You don't need a wide band.

You need to trust the simple mechanics, and then you can richen or lean it as a warmed up vehicle test.

Under acceleration you'd expect it to drop out way rich, outside the range. When cruising, you'd expect way lean. 16.1:1, not measurable.



0.1 volt up to 0.9 volts ---->13.5 to 15.5:1 air fuel, then it drops out radically


Lambda%20narrowband.jpg
 
no a/f gauge needed!
 
chad":1ljp2la4 said:
no a/f gauge needed!

Yeah, but a used O2 narrow band sensor and 30 bux SP CP8200 will get you in ball park really well.

I'd use both.


Engine stumble could be a range of many other things, good igntion is first. Then just following the tune up rules. On a 1-bbl, the air fuel rading between cylinders varies so much, a Colortune picks it up, a single point wide band doesn't. A narrow band is so cheap, and it allows you to plug in a 1/8" adaptor and get back pressure.


511Z5SC2MDL.jpg



Problem with a wide band is the air fuel ratio varies 2.5 points A/F between richest to leanest cylinder, so a wide band isn't going to actually give you an accurate number. Someone like wsa111 can use it, and get good info because he knows what lean missfire and igntion advance and retard does to the car.

For the rest of use, ball park is important.

Don't go overboard, but spending 250 on just a wide band system won't give as much value as the color tune will for cylinder to cylinder air fuel variance.


And that's a fact.

Color tune needs some simple calibration, and if the EPA is okay with 100 million narrow band equped cars triming air fuel ratio to 14.7 or 15.1 in our oxygenatied world, then its fine with me too.
 
Hrm

SuperMag":ba63aeik said:
What you need to do: Adjust the metering rod so that it's bottomed out with the throttle wide open. This will be way too lean, obviously, but it will give you a place to begin. You'll certainly be able to adjust your idle mixture... (I live at high altitude, and I like a lean running carb, so this is where I actually have mine adjusted.)

Incidentally, YF jets are the same as those in the Carter/Edelbrock AFB...
Considering how messed up it is, I'll set it this way then play with it.

I can't find anything on the idle screw initial setting. Screw all the way in, then one full turn out? Two full turns?
 
...the color tune will for cylinder to cylinder air fuel variance…."
excellent advantage, no? ($40 - $70)
but not just what Asa needs?
 
Early Carter YF carburetors, probably factory Ford sixes in the late 60's too, don't have an adjusting screw at the top of the metering rod.

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Carter- ... p_317.html

Adjusting Idle Mixture

Engine should be at operating temperature
RPM should be at factory specification. Probably around 500 for the YF cars.
Hook up a vacuum gauge either to the carburetor, or intake manifold port.
Start with screw about 1 1/2" turns out.
Turn screw in 1/4 turn, wait for the RPM to catch up (1 second).
Keep turning in 1/4 turn until vacuum starts to drop.
Turn screw out 1/4 turn.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9488 ... retor.html

The following Except that the YFA has only one external mixture screw.


1. with the engine off, set the idle mixture screws 1.5 turns out (from being completly screwed in). This is an approxiate setting and should only require about 1/4 turn in either direction for fine tuning.

2. If you have a good ear you can listen for the fastest, smoothest rpm when adjusting, if not, use a vacume gauge and look for the highest, smoothest reading.

3. Start the engine. slowly turn each screw independantly about 1/4 turn either in or out (but both the same direction), if the engine rpm gets slower, turn the opposite direction. Once you have reached the best point, then shut the engine off, check to see how far out each mixture screw is set, then if there is a difference, avg the two out so they are the same. You are done- you might have to adjust the idle speed at this point.

FYI, the father out, the more air (lean) the fuel mixture becomes. If one screw seems to be lathargic or makes no difference, time to clean the carb. If it does take 2.5 out, I would check to make sure the air filter is clean- if everything is fine, then it's ok.
 
xctasy":pvpf4zi0 said:
But your better off telling us what year the carb is, part number, what model you think its its off, and that since its not SCV/Loadamatic, what is it the year DSII distributor your using from. Is it an ex air con carb?

If your running the DSII with HEI module, you have to use the right coil and wiring, or your idel and off idel will suffer spark changes.


You've got a T5, right?
So, clarification. The YF and YFA labels seem to be used interchangably by some (including Mike's Carburetor Parts at times.) Going by the rebuild videos here http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Carter- ... p_459.html, it's a YFA. Part number #7115 S. Mea culpa

I picked up the DSII dizzy new from a parts house, it's been over a decade since I did that though, so I have no clue what I spec'd out when I bought it. Coil is a TFI coil from a '90s Ford, likely a Mustang judging by who I got it from.

T5, yes.
 
From another source....you might be getting a misfire...


Okay as long as its a legit Ford Duraspark II, not and early Duraspark I, and you don't use the ballast resister or normal Duraspark II balast.

If thats okay, then all good...

Its the same as a "plain old" 302 DuraSpark II distributor, and won't have any compatabilty issues, as Walking Tall discusses below.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... ost1844735
Walking-Tall":3iqns9lj said:
.......

For reference, here's a wiring diagram I created for the ignition in my '86 converted from EEC-IV/TFI to DuraSpark II & HEI module:

DSII-HEI-Relay-a-PNG.png~original



I attached (clean metal and the goop they give you with it) the HEI module in the cool breeze on the strut tower near the coil.

Trc-DSII-HEI-TFI_Coil-Relay-Ignition-Mockup-a-PNG.png~original



[quote "mrriggs"]Couple tips for using the HEI module. Get a genuine AC Delco module #D1906 (GM #10482820). Most of the problems I hear about are due to guys using McPart Store replacements.

For the dwell circuit in the HEI module to work correctly, you need to use a coil with less than 1 Ohm primary resistance [the TFI coil is perfect]. The HEI module has a current limiter built in that will hold the primary at about 4.5 amps. If you hook the HEI module to your stock Duraspark coil and ballast resistor then the primary current will be too low to trigger the current limiter in the HEI module. The HEI constantly pulls up the bias voltage on the pickup coil to increase dwell. When the current limiter kicks in it will bleed down the bias voltage to reduce the dwell. When everything is working correctly, the pull-up and bleed down cancel out when the dwell is set to the ideal time. If the current limiter isn't kicking in then the dwell will only be increased and that is when you get all the oddball misfire troubles.
 
I had the DSII well before I blew the headgasket and swapped in the T5. It ran well with the Autolite carb and the C4.
 
Then just the basics.

1.5 turns idle mixture

Check with vac gauge for max vac, adjust accordingly.

Adjust as per Mikes Car Repairs the metering rod hanger.

Check anything else...coil specs, wiring, you don't have to go nuts, just check.

I'd take the time out to get some cheap tell tale mixture detection. Serious about color tune and narrow band and backpressure. You can run a 1-bbl carb 200 six quite lean, right off the dial is about 15.5 or more, and the gauge is a good idea to know if its leaness or richness that causes the flat spot.


Everyone with a YFA'd 3.3 finds them finicity, but one jug feeding six pots creates some bad transitional lumps, and a poor idle.

Using an unlit hand propane torch or propane bottle with a petcock to turn on or of at the carb, do a leak test while the engine is running.

The cars with YFA and 1946 carbs are notorious for air /vac leaks. If you have a brake booster, or failing PCV valve, it will make the car idle poorly, and so will any rocker cover without the baffel in it.


Good luck with the flat spot/ stumble. It aint no EFI vehicle, so it won't ever be seamless.
 
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