1966 200 ci exhaust

sprog777

Active member
I am going to pull my exhaust header to install new headers. What will I be getting into frozen and broken bolts. What would the best way to go about this without breaking hardware and having to pull the head. Any suggestions?
 
it's a tough one.
Some rust buster soaked in there awhile & try,
some heat (oxy/acet if U have it - I've used other gas on a smaller hand-held torch) & try again.
Don't forget to turn a lill in both directions after a try 'outward', more rust buster'n heat…

No big deal if they break off. A center punch and drill, chased w/proper sz tap can 'repair'.

We have an easy out to grab the bolt that often works. Do NOT try vice grips as a 1st method as they often just make matters worse.

Others have good workable methods, wait, let's C what they suggest!
 
Yeah, start soaking them now. PB blaster, Knock er Loose, Kroil, atf & acetone, etc

And when the time comes, rap them with a hammer, not hard enough to deform or break anything, but hard enough to wake them up. And tighten a touch before loosening. And when it gets tight backing them out, turn them back in some, more fluid etc. If they start to twist, they will soon twist apart. Drilling out exhaust bolts on the head in the car is not something you want to do if you can help it.
 
Soaking the bolts with any of the oils/solvents mentioned above will certainly help. If you do happen to break one of the bolts, I would not recommend trying to drill it out or use a bolt extractor with the head on the car unless it is your absolute last choice. Welding a nut to the broken bolt has always worked better for me.

Most of the "easy outs" are very hard and brittle. The only thing I have found easy about them is how easy it is to break the extractor off in the bolt you are trying to remove. I have tried the cheap ones from the hardware stores and the expensive ones off of the Snap-on truck with about the same luck. When that happens it is all but impossible to drill through and the head will have to come off for the trip to the machine shop.

Just my 2 cents,

Kevin
 
X25 or so on the fluid approach. A little heat won't hurt either.

Broken easy outs are fun. I had that happen on a head. Luckily it wasn't on the engine. But here's a trick: use a carbide bit in your dremel.
 
Not what I was wanting to hear. I like to do everything myself because I was poor when younger and now I guess it's a bad habit. The muffler shop doesn't want to do it and now I see why. 50 year old rusted bolts that have been through so many heat cycles. I really don't want to take the motor apart because it runs so well. These headers may have to sit in the box while I think about this.
 
You can take the approach I did. :D

I got a 2nd head and resolved all of those bolt issues off the engine. I then had the head modified to my specifications then did a head swap. This allows you to keep driving the car while you fiddle around with the other stuff.

Just a thought! Cheers! :beer:
 
heads avail at car-parts dot com
 
:unsure: Try using Kroil.Also get some LEFT HAND drill bits.Those have been known to back out the bolt when drilling the broken bolt out because of the heat generated.When reinstalling the header bolts or studs,use anti seize compound.Just a little hint.Do the same when installing new spark plugs too.Can save a LOT of discouraging words.Another hint.DON`T use grade 8 bolts.They are a real pain to drill if they break.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
A couple years ago I had an exhaust leak on my '66 Mustang. I was able to remove all the bolts and install a new exhaust gasket without too much trouble. Just take your time, use plenty of the oil of your choice and work the bolts/nuts back and forth as you remove them.

I always run into problems when I get impatient and decide I don't need to take the above advice.
 
woodbutcher":3hoqnuvv said:
:unsure: Try using Kroil.Also get some LEFT HAND drill bits.Those have been known to back out the bolt when drilling the broken bolt out because of the heat generated.When reinstalling the header bolts or studs,use anti seize compound.Just a little hint.Do the same when installing new spark plugs too.Can save a LOT of discouraging words.Another hint.DON`T use grade 8 bolts.They are a real pain to drill if they break.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

BRILLIANT IDEA leo. i never thought of using left hand drill bits. OP i agree with the others, lot of good penetrating oil, coupled with a bit of time and some heat should do the trick. if you do end up breaking a bolt or two, then you will have to pull the head and drill the old bolts out as necessary. if you do, then use a bit large enough to install a heli coil in the offending bolt holes.

and as leo suggested, use some anti seize on the new bolts when installing them to prevent future issues with bolts rusting to the head.
 
:nod: Hi rbohm.Thanks for the reply.Those are just a few little things that I have learned over about 61 years of fooling around with all types of mechanical items.Kroil has also been used by gunsmiths to disassemble 100 year old and older firearms with relative ease.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
Just went through this ordeal. I knew what I was getting into when removing the ex-manifold to change out the freeze plugs. So I started soaking and heating months ago. Still ended up with 4 broken bolts. Pulled the head and heated up the bolts with the torch. I then started spraying wd-40 on them as they cooled. The WD will get sucked into the threads a the right temp. Then I used a small pipe wrench to remove the three that were sticking out. The one that was broken off down in the hole I welded a washer to it and then a nut. More heat and WD and it came out also.
All I can say is good luck and if you do have to take the head off now would be a good time to change the value seals and check the slop in your timing chain.

Matt
 
These are all Excellent suggestions! Many times it's not going to be so hard to get them out when you allow plenty of time and stopping quickly as soon as you first feel the bolt is getting harder to turn. Then soak it some more and wait, repeat as many times as it takes. Good luck the headers will be a nice improvement in performance. :nod:
 
some say to replace w/ss but the never seize on what U do use is my suggestion.
Use the cooper additive variety (higher temp) goop.
 
Going through this right now on a 250 that's never had the manifold off... :cry: :devilish: :cry: :devilish:

I've got 6 out so far... lots of heating and cooling, and welding nuts to the broken studs. I use paraffin wax after I heat them up and they cool some. When the wax will melt over them without sizzling it sucks it up into the threads and works great 90% of the time.

This engine IS the worst I've ever had though, may have to drill a few if they won't come out in the next few weeks...
 
"...come out in the next few weeks…"
now THAT's a patient man!
 
Be especially careful with the two that are not blind holes, but through holes - the top front and top back ones. These tend to rust even more than others and you can also crack the ears off. The only good news about those two is that you can see the threads and can tell if the screw is moving when you're working the head (as opposed to just twisting the head off).
 
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