stalling on turns?

cmm24601

Well-known member
So I just swapped out my autolite 1101 for a rebuilt autolite 1101 from Rock Auto. IT RUNS LIKE A DREAM!!!

Except... It stalls while decelerating into a turn at low speeds, like when pulling in to a parking space. I have power brakes but no power steering. Any ideas?
 
Hi, maybe the idle is too low, or the mixture screw needs adjustment. Some carbs use an anti stall dashpot for guess what. Good luck
 
got an auto tranny? really need the dashpot (choke pull off) then I'm told
 
:unsure: all are excellent suggestions I will add that you should maybe do a fuel volume and pressure test to know the condistion of your fuel pump. Good luck :nod:
 
I'm running an auto and haven't had any problem with stalls, I bet you can adjust it out. Unless you are flying into parking spaces and stopping suddenly an anti-stall dashpot isn't going to help. Maybe the timing is a touch low, float to low, idle and air adjustments ect.
 
Brake booster faults can cause stall outs, but you normally get poor idle as well.

From https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1057 ... tions.html

Pull the line off going to the carb, stick a hose on the end of it, and put it in a bucket. Get someone to crank the engine, and you should get strong spurts of gas going into the bucket.

If that's good, hook the the line back up to the carb, and then crank it a little bit. Then take the plastic handle of a screwdriver and peck on top of the carb housing. Move the throttle back and forth without cranking, and if you have fuel, you should see if squirt down into the engine when you move the throttle.

Specs:-
Static Pressure: 5 to 7 psi
Volume: Minimum .23 liters (1 pint) in 20 seconds
Eccentric total lift: .290-.310 inches

That's what you are looking for, the specs are for a 300 Big Six, but the 200 basically the same.
 
Funny you should say that... I do have very poor idle. Shakey like a vacuum leak. Can I use a smoke test on the brake booster?
 
cmm24601":f6g6z8j8 said:
Funny you should say that... I do have very poor idle. Shakey like a vacuum leak. Can I use a smoke test on the brake booster?
of course. A sanity sandwhich always helps.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=73925&p=568210#p568210

mark_hagen":f6g6z8j8 said:
Long time since my original post...found two things. 1) brass tee fitting on intake manifold for brake booster and vacuum canister had a hairline crack on the underside. 2) PCV valve letting too much air to pass through at idle. The store bout PCV valves have spring tensions set for a stock motor. After researching how to select a PCV valve for a modified engine, I purchased and installed a Wagner Adjustable PCV valve (Not cheap). This valve has two circuits; an idle circuit and an off-idle circuit. Once installed, turning the idle adjustment screw made the engine idle smooth out. No more idle circuit problems.
 
Yes smoke is an excellent way to find vaccum leaks! (y) two easy things to check on the power brake unit is that the rubber grommet is in good condition with a snug fit, and that the one way check valve is still functioning. To test run the engine for a short time then to turn it off and listen at the power booster, sometimes you can hear them leaking the vacuum fast. If not then next pull out the vacuum lines check valve from the Grommet if they are all in good condition you will then hear it loose it's stored vacuum. If it dosent have any stored vacuum then it could be a bad Gromlet, a bad check valve, both of which are real easy and relatively inexpensive to replace. Last it can also be that the power booster is no longer holding a vacuum, if there are any signs of brake fuild from the master cylinder leaking now or sometime before than the power booster unit will likely need to be replaced or be sent in to be rebuilt. Good luck :nod:
 
Not the brake booster. Process of elimination. I disconnected the hose from the manifold to the brake booster and plugged it while the engine was running. Still had the shakes.

Is the float level different on an automatic? If so what should it be?
 
Hi, I would try to find the vacuum leak by spraying carb cleaner at the base of the carb. Also go over each vacuum fitting, tranny, distributor, brake booster, and PCV and make sure they are all fresh and tight. If you replaced any hoses when you changed the carb the replacement hoses may be too big to fit tightly.i have also pinched a hose with needle nose pliers to close it off and see what happens. Good luck
 
cmm24601":3lrr8efj said:
Not the brake booster. Process of elimination. I disconnected the hose from the manifold to the brake booster and plugged it while the engine was running. Still had the shakes.

Is the float level different on an automatic? If so what should it be?

:unsure: Have you did a Compression Test of your engine yet? If the engine has a weak cylinder or two that could be your shaking problem. Good luck :nod:
 
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