Sadly only 240 of
Mustang_Geezer's posts remain. He coverd this
long ago in his earlier posts which are now under
Guest. His website
http://www.geocities.com/mustang_man_1966/index.html is gone too.
Below this blurb, some usefull links.
All the systems fter 1973 are closed systems. They work with a lot of other little duffors. Remember the rules of happy carbing
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1202phr- ... -mistakes/
Esp No 6.
Neglect Vacuum Hookups
Often, factory engines are designed with what appears to be a spaghetti factory for vacuum lines. Some of those are critical, and some aren’t. Either way, mark every single one of them prior to removing your old carb, and look at their function. Keep an eye out for which vacuum lines use ported (to distributor) vacuum and full manifold vacuum. On the other end of the spectrum, if the car is destined for racing only,QFT’s Zach Baker says: “I see people run PCV valves on motors that have huge-by-large camshafts in them. They just don’t work that well. It’s an emissions piece and not a performance piece.” Look for an alternate means of removing crankcase pressure.
I love PCV, auto chokes, and cold starting heat stoves, TVS duffors that open your special dual intake air cleaner.
Just like Mustang Geezers
The early CFi and pre 4bbl 5.0 and Essex 90 degree V6 air cleaner is cheap, has the Air Cleaner to oil filler connection, the Green and White/Blue TVS cold weather modulators, a bimetallic sensor, and you can dual snout it easily.
Its what the 82 5.0 GT Mustang and RS Capri used before 4V carbs. Ford used that alloy base for a long time in the Mustang II to Fox era, about 10 years. So you have heaps of scope.
For a closed system, best stock is Ford EV-98-B Motorcraft PCV Valve #D9ZZ-6A666-A (1980-2001 V8 item). It will allow for less blowby to the intake, but will blow more oil out into your filtering system. It goes to under the carb, via an under carb adaptor like this.
The oil filler has a vent to the carbnd and to do it right, the air cleaner needs to be like the 1975 to 1980 YFA 250 or 300 item, a standard YFA carbed Granada, Maverick, F100 truck thing.
Motorcraft EV-98-B comes with a two peg 90 degree union. Summits info is wrong, and has been for ages.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ ... /make/ford
Shorter single peg, actually started years before, is for CFi 5.0 V8's, it is Motorcraft EV140 (#E7TE6A666A2A, E7TE6B890AA, E7TZ6A666A). It allows more blow by.
Basically, its your car, so you work out an air cleaner that suits you best, and then run the oil filler vent to it, and then on another rocker cover port, send the blow by via Motorcraft EV-98-B to an under carb intake vent. Don't get hung up on it. If its a Holley 2-bbl, you might get away with the back of the carb, but its more fun to take it to a 90 union to the intake somewhere else. If the PCV is not dampened down enough, it'll hurt your idle.
A PCV valve should never go to a bowl vent in the carb, especially not it its a Weber.
Since there is so many in line six cylinder idle problems, and so many unbaffled rocker covers and engines with different levels of vacuum on any Ford I6, use of the expensive ME Wagner Adjustable PCV can pay big dividends .If you have a lot of crankcase ventilation, the ME Wagner Adjustable PCV valve will work fine.
Basically because
your engine will probably no longer have the PCV baffle below the PCV valve the way Ford intended, and
will also have major increases in blow- by.
It'll have more than the design hp level of 80 odd hp the i6 PCV's were designed around.
I don't get kickbacks from Wagner over the Adjustable PCV
DF-17 Dual Flow PCV Valve (Its Not cheap, and per item I'd make a lot on money doing it), but I've lost count of the amount of people whose cold engine won't idle.
http://mewagner.com/?p=444
http://mewagner.com/?p=1130
.
Poor idle is often because some of the other advice from performance suppliers is to perform a frontal lobotomy on the factories emission devices, first the rocker cover baffles, then its PCV, then the carb, then, if equiped, the exhaust primary light off cat, then the secondary AIR...that normally helps some aspect of idle, but then hurts fuel delivery.
As a side note, There is a raft of IMCO/ Thermactor systems that tie PCV to cold weather modulators on the air cleaner...whole nuther story.....You don't have to spend a million bucks, just two TVS valves to rout the ignition advance right in that vital 58 to 65 deg F zone, proper intake heat stove supply from the headers under part throttle with proper full flow under wide open throttle, and proper PCV system. Basically, IMCO 1973. I'd personally stay with EGR, but that's up to you.
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pssnmn1":33e1q63m said:
that is true,
on just about all late model vehicles the pcv specific to the engine
after a incredibly annoying wannabe teacher told me and my fellow classmates there was no difference in pcv valves we decided to do a independent study of our own.
using a small block chebby valve cover(they are cheap) sealed to a piece
of plexiglass and a vacuum pump we tested 22 seperate pcv valves
various venders and ones delco and motorcraft all for the same engine(5.7liter chebby 1/2 ton pickup with auto and air 1990) thats the vehicle
it came off of, and none of the measured the same.....none.
its not as critical on older engines but it does aid in the performance as well as oiling on some newer engines.
some even have metered orifices now.
just my 2 cents
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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER":33e1q63m said:
You must have a PCV valve if you are going to route crankcase fumes into the intake. The valve acts as a metering device so that at small throttle openings (and high vacuum) there is minimal flow through the valve, and at large throttle openings (low vacuum and high blow-by) there is virtually unrestricted flow through the PCV. If yours does not have one try a Motorcraft # EV-98.
I highly recommend a PCV valve for all street-driven engines.
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wsa111":33e1q63m said:
All the major parts stores carry them.
HOWEVER you will suck oil into the PCV valve. One choice is move the valve via an 2" hose to raise the hose above the valve cover.
The C.I. valve cover is just a copy of Cliffords cast valve cover, a good looking piece of junk.
From an engineering design the cover should be 1/4" higher to clear a decent baffle over the PCV valve just like the factory stamped steel cover.
You can use double valve cover gaskets to raise the cover.
You can then install a sheet metal baffle to the top of the cover. The 4 bosses are cast into the cover, but need to be drilled & tapped to fasten an OEM style baffle.
That's why they pay factory engineers to do the design correctly, rather than a parts copier of a poorly designed product.
