electric water pump?
- Thread starter bmbm40
- Start date
yes i have thought about an electric water pump. they are getting strong enough these days to handle the cooling system of modern engine demands.
you have ones that mount to the engine in place of the stock pump, and you have ones that are remote mounted, usually at the radiator outlet.
you will gain some power at the flywheel since the engine is not pushing the water through the block. another advantage is that you get consistent coolant flow through the block, if the pump puts out 35gph, you get that all the time when the pump is running. you can also set the pump up to run with the engine shut off to help prevent heat soak.
you will however have to use a much more powerful alternator, on the order of at least 100amps output, 150 would be better. you would also need some heavy duty relays to supply power to the pump since they do draw a lot of current. i would also suggest a second battery if you plan on running the pump with the engine off for any length of time, and isolate it from the starting battery. there are battery isolators that allow you to do this and still maintain the charge s needed.
you have ones that mount to the engine in place of the stock pump, and you have ones that are remote mounted, usually at the radiator outlet.
you will gain some power at the flywheel since the engine is not pushing the water through the block. another advantage is that you get consistent coolant flow through the block, if the pump puts out 35gph, you get that all the time when the pump is running. you can also set the pump up to run with the engine shut off to help prevent heat soak.
you will however have to use a much more powerful alternator, on the order of at least 100amps output, 150 would be better. you would also need some heavy duty relays to supply power to the pump since they do draw a lot of current. i would also suggest a second battery if you plan on running the pump with the engine off for any length of time, and isolate it from the starting battery. there are battery isolators that allow you to do this and still maintain the charge s needed.
As a low mount water pump, the Davis Craig and block off plate system can work.
I am specfically saying that, comparitively, the aftermarket Davis Craig EWP is a bad pump compared to an LS Chevy electric water pump, but it works in situations where there is excess cooling capacity. To detrimine if you have excess cooling capacity , check Link 4 below
Link 1 http://www.aussiespeedshop.com/product/ ... water-pump
Link2 See http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=56560
Link 3 For anything else, use Mike 1157's method with a LSx Gen 3 electric water pump.
"http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?155706-The-path-less-traveled-1978-Turbo-I6-Futura-(The-Gila-Monster)/page8"
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... la-Monster)/page8
"/page8" in the link is page 8
I'm a stern traditionalist. If its twin thermo fans, electric water pumps, or Fuel Injection, you have to provide a 3G alternator system with proper Ford wiring, or the load will kill your idle, or won't work as well as a factory system.
US Engineers spent billions of dollars devising a better electric water pump mouse trap, you have to follow the factory protocols, how ever stupid or illogical it may seam. I like aftermarket stuff, but its sold on 150% bovine scattology, and , in the rephrasing of REM's words, progress fails specific sense...
First, test your existing system
Link 4 http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.ht ... g&A=110478
Link 5 http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=45214
Link 6 http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=35766
Link 7 http://www.speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopi ... =1&t=31164
I am specfically saying that, comparitively, the aftermarket Davis Craig EWP is a bad pump compared to an LS Chevy electric water pump, but it works in situations where there is excess cooling capacity. To detrimine if you have excess cooling capacity , check Link 4 below
Link 1 http://www.aussiespeedshop.com/product/ ... water-pump
Link2 See http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=56560
balldrick":3vgmwx02 said:Got some pics of my by-pass valve, intercooler and piping and pulley and electric water pump finished. O and my 17 x 8 wheels, getting closer !.
Link 3 For anything else, use Mike 1157's method with a LSx Gen 3 electric water pump.
"http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?155706-The-path-less-traveled-1978-Turbo-I6-Futura-(The-Gila-Monster)/page8"
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... la-Monster)/page8
"/page8" in the link is page 8
I'm a stern traditionalist. If its twin thermo fans, electric water pumps, or Fuel Injection, you have to provide a 3G alternator system with proper Ford wiring, or the load will kill your idle, or won't work as well as a factory system.
US Engineers spent billions of dollars devising a better electric water pump mouse trap, you have to follow the factory protocols, how ever stupid or illogical it may seam. I like aftermarket stuff, but its sold on 150% bovine scattology, and , in the rephrasing of REM's words, progress fails specific sense...
First, test your existing system
Link 4 http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.ht ... g&A=110478
Link 5 http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=45214
Link 6 http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=35766
Link 7 http://www.speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopi ... =1&t=31164
Cool23
Famous Member
On the inline 6 I run a stock mechanical pump but it is driven by an electrical motor and that has been on the car for at least 20 years now. In the last few years Davies Craig have been making electrical water pumps here (they are available in the USA) and on the Windsor V8 I have a 25 litre per minute version set up to run and bypass the mechanical pump so at slow speeds the coolant still flows and that system has worked well. I also have a small 15 litre per minute unit on the Cummins working to move water through the under dash heater.
I've thought of your 170 T bucket often, and how well it does, C23.
In 250 engine swaps in to round body Falcons, its a great system...the radator support bracket prevents organising a really good conventional fan. It allows you to run serpintie drives, blowers, bigger alternators, an EWP liberates a huge amount of wasted space.
Due to the design, to use the EWP Stewart Components electrical water pump,
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/index. ... ry&path=63
you just have to have enough free capacity. It works in most cases, but on the higher end, the system lags.
That's why there a different stages of kit, with extra management on higher end controllers. Some are best as just supplementry systems, for sub 90 cubic inch cars like A series Mini's where one kind is sensational.
The E558, it'll work anywhere with 55 US gals a minute flow is required.
Key thing is that its an aftermarket electrical pump that does a great job, but its not a miracle device.
The way the device was marketed in the US set it self up as a target early on. I like the part, and it will work 9 times out of 10. About where balldrick had it, at the 300 hp level, its fine. Past that, you just have to check the free capacity. An engine is a heat pump, and you tkae heat out by the right flow rate and the right heat exchanger, the water pump won't work miracles.
The Pring and Edgar method of checking the boiling temperature is a good basic way to check the pump operation. 150 degrees F is crook, 212 deg F is great. You do it before replacing the water pump. If the EWP keeps the unpressurised boil rate at the same as stock or higher, your all good.
Plenty of stock Windsor, Cleveland and Lima water pumps are no good stock. The alloy Boss 302 impellor is very good.
If it drops, you'll need extra radiator capacity to keep the themal stress at bay.
Same deal with thermo fans. Bob Pinnell from Capri and Cortina V8 components, and David Vizard reitterated it, ....thermo fans don't give the nessary wind rush compared to a high pitch engine driven fan. The less blades, the greater the pitch. More blades reduce pitch.
The cooling fans work by demand managment, not by peak wind rush. The work, but they work because they are demand mamaged by heat sensors, and that influences basic electrical requirments on your alternator circuits.
Modern control systems make a less efficent water pump, cooling fan or electric fuel pump work. In terms of physical performance properties, new technology is built down to a price, to get a satisfactory result.
Net positive suction head, the abilty for a pump to static lift, is worse with electric pumps than the old fashioned metal impellor.
The plus is the other freedoms the kits give.
In 250 engine swaps in to round body Falcons, its a great system...the radator support bracket prevents organising a really good conventional fan. It allows you to run serpintie drives, blowers, bigger alternators, an EWP liberates a huge amount of wasted space.
Due to the design, to use the EWP Stewart Components electrical water pump,
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/index. ... ry&path=63
you just have to have enough free capacity. It works in most cases, but on the higher end, the system lags.
That's why there a different stages of kit, with extra management on higher end controllers. Some are best as just supplementry systems, for sub 90 cubic inch cars like A series Mini's where one kind is sensational.
The E558, it'll work anywhere with 55 US gals a minute flow is required.
Key thing is that its an aftermarket electrical pump that does a great job, but its not a miracle device.
The way the device was marketed in the US set it self up as a target early on. I like the part, and it will work 9 times out of 10. About where balldrick had it, at the 300 hp level, its fine. Past that, you just have to check the free capacity. An engine is a heat pump, and you tkae heat out by the right flow rate and the right heat exchanger, the water pump won't work miracles.
The Pring and Edgar method of checking the boiling temperature is a good basic way to check the pump operation. 150 degrees F is crook, 212 deg F is great. You do it before replacing the water pump. If the EWP keeps the unpressurised boil rate at the same as stock or higher, your all good.
Plenty of stock Windsor, Cleveland and Lima water pumps are no good stock. The alloy Boss 302 impellor is very good.
If it drops, you'll need extra radiator capacity to keep the themal stress at bay.
Same deal with thermo fans. Bob Pinnell from Capri and Cortina V8 components, and David Vizard reitterated it, ....thermo fans don't give the nessary wind rush compared to a high pitch engine driven fan. The less blades, the greater the pitch. More blades reduce pitch.
The cooling fans work by demand managment, not by peak wind rush. The work, but they work because they are demand mamaged by heat sensors, and that influences basic electrical requirments on your alternator circuits.
Modern control systems make a less efficent water pump, cooling fan or electric fuel pump work. In terms of physical performance properties, new technology is built down to a price, to get a satisfactory result.
Net positive suction head, the abilty for a pump to static lift, is worse with electric pumps than the old fashioned metal impellor.
The plus is the other freedoms the kits give.