My Budget 250 build

Short block went to the machine shop today, finally :roll:

Maybe eventually we will be able to find out if this whole thing is going to work as planned :p

See Ya,
Mike
 
Because the short block is off to the machine shop I have been working on my head, more specifically the intake mod I am doing, this is what I have done so far.

0631b9a7fcb5b1e020caca937a21f360.jpg


I will cast it in aluminum, I have someone with a furnace/forge I just need to get a crucible, sand and some scrap aluminum, I think the old 250 pistons are going to go into the pot, I thought it would be cool if they stayed with the engine.

See Ya,
Mike
 
Thanks guys, I am probably going to need some help figuring out how to run the accelerator cable and fabricate a bracket, so far all I have is a pedal mounted in the car off of a 1994-1998 Thunderbird, Cougar and Mark VIII. Not sure what the Escort bracket looks like but I would probably have to change it some anyway, can't really find any detailed pictures.

Not doing a progressive linkage so just an adjustable bar linking all three carbs, also going to pull the auto chokes off a make some sort of manual choke and I think that I would just need a fast idle cam on one carb.

I am thinking it might be easiest to let the cable pull on the rear or the center carb, I guess I need to check the travel on the pedal and see how long a arm on the carb I need to reach WOT at that pull.

See Ya,
Mike
 
Thanks X the pictures help, I don't think I will copy the Offy pivot arms but maybe the larger crank will work for me.

I have my current 3x1 sitting here I can look at, I do agree with the header clearance issue but I never did have any kind of sticking with it, of course like I said I am not doing the progressive part so it should help in my situation some.

See Ya,
Mike
 
Like I said earlier the pictures helped spark a plan on how to do the throttle so I went out today and made a new throttle arm, the hardest thing was making the oval hole where the throttle shaft goes through the arm.

The red string represents how the carb linkage rod will go through, there will new a connection on the center arm where you can see I drilled the hole, the other two auto chokes will come off as well and I will build a manual choke system. The magnetic arm represents the throttle cable and I will build a bracket for the end of the cable near the rear carb. The pedal has about 3.5" of travel so I think I am ok with my arm length.

995d96cce01e1a56d4bf097bd1a1ca89.jpg


See Ya,
Mike
 
yeah, good idea. Getta peddle etc to C how it will coordinate w/it all now B4 proceedin too far.
Don't 4get the headers'n, A/C (as in other fella's).
Lookin good~
 
chad":2cehi46w said:
Getta peddle etc to C how it will coordinate w/it all now B4 proceedin too far.

I have the pedal already mounted in the car. I will probably try and do a complete mockup soon I have a 200 block on a stand I can use to bolt the head on (actually the motor the head came off of) Will probably wait and fabricate the rear cable bracket until I get the motor installed and the new intake cast (I may try and cast 2 or 3 if I can scrape together enough scrap aluminum in case of mistakes)

I am not sure if my AC bracket will bolt on the 200 or not, of course I don't have a compressor anyway but I would like to find a more compact unit like a Sanden anyway (I know they make conversion brackets, or I could make some)

See Ya,
Mike
 
fun, fun, fun!

I no U will get there frm seein whatja do.

Sanden is beddah den York (size wise) Ck Wolwo's..
X may have an ider or 2.
I C a nice low right side (rare, aftr mrkt?) pass side bracket on another member here's.
Bulky but compact, has extensive frnt'n back armature...
Not sure it will help but a thought (of mine 4 U)...
 
Few minutes today I built a throttle linkage rod, ok with it to a certain extent but really don't like the center link I built, that is ok there is only about $2.50 in parts there.

33a53fbde64bb89c216ad35e67ca603a.jpg


See Ya,
Mike
 
Some more work on my 3x2 intake pattern, pretty close to finished except for some sanding and light fill.

2e04e8507af9e12bb9d1f5442f645d59.jpg


Going to board mount it and build three moulding flasks so I can try to pour three in case there are mistakes.

See Ya,
Mike
 
tryin 2 catch up on the process -
U covered the wood w/plastic?
That will be placed in the sand, B burned away by the melted ingots pored in?
How will U vent the expanding gasses of burnt plastic as they try'n escape out?
Will the wood B remover 1st?
 
chad":1s8t7u2m said:
tryin 2 catch up on the process -
U covered the wood w/plastic?
That will be placed in the sand, B burned away by the melted ingots pored in?
How will U vent the expanding gasses of burnt plastic as they try'n escape out?
Will the wood B remover 1st?

This is a wooden pattern (that and bondo), in the last picture it is just been primed, I haven't quite finished it.

It is a split pattern, the parting line is near the top just below the carb flanges, it will be sand moulded and the pattern removed before being cast in aluminum, I will show some pictures once I get it mounted on the moulding board and the flasks built.

After the casting is done it will be machined on the carb mount surface and 6 bolts/screws will hold it on. If tolerances are tight enough I will use RTV to seal between the surfaces, if not I will probably bed the aluminum intake with high temp epoxy and then RTV.

I could probably say the pattern was done right now (good enough for sand casting) but I can be super picky about stuff and want to even some things up and I think I have one spot with negative draft on the top I need to fix.

I wish I had made an impression of the firing order cast on top of the intake before I ground it off because I think it would be neat to cast it on top of the flat between carb 1 and 2, make it look factory"ish" :roll:

I did plane off the top of the lower pattern today slightly to make the profile thinner in case I need to use the fiber spacer under the carbs, the valve cover side really only has to clear the fuel line connections and the only close one is the front where it runs close to the PVC valve.

I was wondering, is the port in the manifold, just below the carb, the PVC connection? (where I have the cutout on my pattern)

See Ya,
Mike
 
lavron":16jhcryw said:
I was wondering, is the port in the manifold, just below the carb, the PVC connection? (where I have the cutout on my pattern)
wasn't that an 'everything' port?
vac breaks, pcv, dizzy, etc ? I've seen a brass fitting tube or barrel-like thing w/3 or 4 nipples on it there...
not sure~
 
lavron":3ouz2g6z said:
chad":3ouz2g6z said:
tryin 2 catch up on the process -
U covered the wood w/plastic?
That will be placed in the sand, B burned away by the melted ingots pored in?
How will U vent the expanding gasses of burnt plastic as they try'n escape out?
Will the wood B remover 1st?

This is a wooden pattern (that and bondo), in the last picture it is just been primed, I haven't quite finished it.

It is a split pattern, the parting line is near the top just below the carb flanges, it will be sand moulded and the pattern removed before being cast in aluminum, I will show some pictures once I get it mounted on the moulding board and the flasks built.

After the casting is done it will be machined on the carb mount surface and 6 bolts/screws will hold it on. If tolerances are tight enough I will use RTV to seal between the surfaces, if not I will probably bed the aluminum intake with high temp epoxy and then RTV.

I could probably say the pattern was done right now (good enough for sand casting) but I can be super picky about stuff and want to even some things up and I think I have one spot with negative draft on the top I need to fix.

I wish I had made an impression of the firing order cast on top of the intake before I ground it off because I think it would be neat to cast it on top of the flat between carb 1 and 2, make it look factory"ish" :roll:

I did plane off the top of the lower pattern today slightly to make the profile thinner in case I need to use the fiber spacer under the carbs, the valve cover side really only has to clear the fuel line connections and the only close one is the front where it runs close to the PVC valve.

I was wondering, is the port in the manifold, just below the carb, the PVC connection? (where I have the cutout on my pattern)

See Ya,
Mike

Hi Mike if you look at your above Tri Power mockup picture (reposted in the link below) the carb on the left rear has a capped off vacuum port on the base this is a PCV port. Good luck (y) :nod:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77057&start=150#p619527
 
Thanks you guys, I will just cap the port in the manifold until/if there is a call for it, I have no power brakes, etc (I like my stuff manual). If it had like a vacuum gauge attached to it what would it show, overall manifold vacuum?

It will take me a bit to figure out what all the ports on those carbs are, there are a bunch of them but I figure most will end up blocked off I am sure many from the '80s were smog control and I know one or two are for an altitude control I am sure one is the vacuum advance. It may take me a while but I will get it once I start using them, there is a big port right in front part of the float bowl (around the corner from the fuel line connection) that I thought was possibly for some sort of fuel/vapor canister?

So used to the Autolite 1100 :roll:

See Ya,
Mike
 
Yes anything that's tapped into the intake manifold below the carb's throdle blades would read full manifold vacuum. :unsure: I might be wrong on that vaccum tap on the carb's base its hard for me to tell its size. If it's smaller than a 3/8 inch hose fitting than it isn't for PCV, also the porting in the carb base would be going into the throdle bore below the throdle blade too. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
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