To tune or rebuild

Harlon

Well-known member
Looking for advice.
My wife and 18 year old son recently bought a I6-200 66 Mustang.
It is generally rough. Meant to be an investment in our son more than in a Mustang.
To that end, upon doing some research, the car has a swapped in 1978 engine with the Motorcraft version of the Holley 1946 for the carb.
The car has a rough idle and intermittently bogs when accelerating from a stop, as well as accelerating through gear shifts. (Not to mention rough shifts). Pretty much the more he drives it the rougher it gets.
On the front end I'm looking to help my son get everything running smooth so he can drive it without worrying it's going to strand him somewhere. My goal was to get it running/tuned up so he could fix it up/upgrade it as he has the money and time.

Guess my question is twofold.
One. This being a late 70's smog engine, would we be better off stripping all the extras off and going back to a simpler carb and ignition setup?

Two. If the 78 system is salvageable/serviceable, where should I start to resolve the idle/bogging issues?

Thanks for the help.
 
To clarify or modify my inquiry:
The longish term plan is to do the "standard" power upgrades on the 200. Headers, upgraded ignition and carburetor.
I guess what I'm asking. Is the late 70's carburetor and ignition with all its smog controls a viable starting point. If I'm correct on the version we're working with, this 200 pulled 85 horsepower when it was new. I'm thinking at least part of that paltry performance is due to the smog control tuning. I may be answering my own question, but it seems that if we want to improve performance we're wasting money and time trying to tune up the existing equipment. We'd be better off scrapping the Holley 1946 and upgrading to a better carb and ignition system at this time.
Thanks for the help.
 
W E L C O M E !!!

"...so he can drive it without worrying it's going to strand him somewhere. My goal was to get it running/tuned up so he could fix it up/upgrade it as he has the money and time..."
sounds like me. For folks with or even without experience 'restoring' one of these venerable sixes I'd recommend a guide, the Ford 6 "Handbook" bout 25 bucks. For 1 - cuz it has a big section on what some call a "staged process" (several stages). Now, for me, I hadda get up to speed just ta know the right questions 2 ask. That was accomplished while I awaited book delivery by going to the horizontal line above & clicking on "Tech Archive" for details. With both you can ID what U have, diagnose, repair and get suggestions of parts'n manufacturers.

Sorry, lotsa folks tell me they don't like my paternalistic suggestions as: "I ask a Q & U send me away to read?!? Rest assured there are a buncha global experts with giving nature ready with opinions (as many as there are with 'belly buttons') AND actual facts/successes.

Lookin forward to hearin back~
(y)
 
chad":9lr00f2t said:
W E L C O M E
Sorry, lotsa folks tell me they don't like my paternalistic suggestions as: "I ask a Q & U send me away to read?!? Rest assured there are a buncha global experts with giving nature ready with opinions (as many as there are with 'belly buttons') AND actual facts/successes.

Lookin forward to hearin back~
(y)

Thanks Chad,
I'm still in that wonky probationary period. Have to wait for my posts to be approved before they show up.

Yeah, I've got the falcon six book, just not with me. I bought it years and years ago when I had my first car. A 63 falcon with a 144. It ended up with a cracked block, the falcon, not the book, so my dreams of building it up never got off the ground. I'm visiting my Dad in a week or so and plan on picking up all my old tech books and text books. Once upon a time I spent a year after high school in tech school training to be an auto mechanic. Dad told me it was college or the door, so to college I went and working on cars became a distant memory. I just wish I'd started up with "troubleshooting and tune-up" rather than engine rebuilding.

Anyway, thanks for the welcome. At this point, I'm doing a lot of reading and research to help guide my son through the project. I know enough to get started. Trying to search out the kinks to avoid sending him down rabbit holes that will unduly cost him $$$.
 
Hi, as mentioned, start with the Falcon Performance Handbook. I would go over the engine tune up first. Make sure the plugs, wires, cap, rotor and filters are in good shape. You have a good electronic ignition. Make sure the vacuum advance is working. Make sure the accelerator pump in the carb is squirting a nice stream of fuel. Do a compression and vacuum test if possible. Go over the vacuum lines and check for vacuum leaks. What tranny, auto or stick? I like to get what I have in top shape before diving into upgrades and major changes. Good luck
 
Howdy Harlon:

And Welcome to THe FORUM! Yes, it is that good.

Add a Service Manual for a '79 Fairmont for basic bed time reading.

BUt, I'd have to, right off, dis-agee with you. I'd definitely start with a lo-price tune up and assessment of what you have. 1st off, I'd be looking for a vacuum leak based on your description of symptoms. If you find any leaks fix them. Next, I'd invest in a a vacuum gauge and timing light.

The vacuum gauge can help you assess to condition of the engine, such as burnt valves, late timing and more. If that assessment reveals no surprises, proceed to the timing light. Depending on your trans, location and elevation, set the initial a 5 degrees more than stock specs.

The good news is you have an excellent ignition system in the DuraSpark II, but check the plugs, and wiring for breaks and electric leaks.

The '79 Holley #1946 is more tuner friendly than later versions but not as tune-able as an earlier Carter YF. Tune the low speed idle screw to the highest vacuum setting.

The transition of this engine from its original vehicle to yours most likely disrupted the extensive collection of vacuum and electric control systems. For your purposes, eliminating is likely better but proceed slowly and thoughtfully. The systems are interconnected.

A photo or two of what the engine in your car looks like would be helpful.

Keep it coming. And good luck.

Adios, David
 
hi harlan, i can tell you that the duraspark ignition system is an excellent igntion. its reliable and very easy to tune, and virtually maintenance free.

the holley 1946, while a better carb than earlier one barrel holleys, suffers from the same thing more late 70s carbs did, emissions tuning. i have had a couple of these and they are hit or miss when it comes to how well they work in real life. my advice would be to strip off the emissions equipment as much as you can, and get a 2v to 1v adaptor, vintageinlines.com has them, and drop on a weber 38/38 carb. that makes for a nice package for a daily driver, probably better than a 2100 autolite two barrel carb, which i have used to good effect, but being a taller carb than the weber means less hood clearance.
 
Thanks All,
I've kind of been continually reading for the last couple of weeks. Slowly formulating a plan as I figure out what we have and find info on how to get it working better and improve it.
I did find a nice original "1978 Ford 6 Tune-Up" sheet over on myzephyrs.com. As well as a vacuum line routing diagram over on foureyedpride.
And off course the tech archive here has been indispensable.
I've discovered I need to do the same thing I've told my son in regards to working on his Mustang. Slow down, one thing at a time. It's all beginning to blend together.

I think I'm set on tuning what we have first. At best, I may be able to smooth it out and get him a little closer to the original 85 horsepower this 200 was born with. Don't know that that's not a good thing on the front end.
He's 18 and hotheaded, more horsepower just means more danger and more money for upgrading other systems to handle the horsepower. I'd sooner avoid the former and he'd sooner avoid the latter. His main focus is horsepower, horsepower, horsepower, but more than anything he wants to be able to drive it :nod: Right Now.

It's funny David mentioned a timing light and vacuum tester. This morning after reading multiple tune-up tutorials I had added a new timing light to my must have list. My next research stop is to read about how to use a vacuum tester.

Once I get my son dialed in on tuning things up, we'll look to post some pics.

One of the things I want to teach him is how to use forums like this to educate himself and use the knowledge available to solve problems. It's funny, kids today walk around with basically super computers in their pockets but they don't know how to use them.

Thanks again for all the help.
 
Oh and I should add, with humor.
First car was 63 Falcon with a 144.
Second car 81 Fairmont with a tired 140 four banger.
It made me laugh when I discovered that this 200 was as likely as not out of Fairmont.
I know we're not playing with V8s, but I'm surely hitting all cylinders as far as low performance engines go.

I think I've found that this 78 200 is a good base for performance upgrades once we get there, but, 85 peak horsepower when it rolled off the lot. Jeez.
 
:rolflmao: Don`t feel bad about the 85 HP.My first car was a 1953 Studebaker Champion inline six.169ci,and a massive 69 hp at the flywheel :shock: :LOL: .
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
Harlon":1tmovqq1 said:
Oh and I should add, with humor.
First car was 63 Falcon with a 144.
Second car 81 Fairmont with a tired 140 four banger.
It made me laugh when I discovered that this 200 was as likely as not out of Fairmont.
I know we're not playing with V8s, but I'm surely hitting all cylinders as far as low performance engines go.
I think I've found that this 78 200 is a good base for performance upgrades once we get there, but, 85 peak horsepower when it rolled off the lot. Jeez.
2 me it's more bout tq anyway.
these engines have it (170 - 300).
he'll get his HP soon enuff w/that 200 - 1st understand ignit, cam, rockers, stroke to boar ratio...
(y)
 
Hi that is a great car to have your son is very fortunate. Along time ago in the early 90's I found a 200 out of a 79 Fairmount I am pretty sure and replaced the 170 in my 66 Bronco. It had the Carter carb if memory serves and it ran great. Can't remember any details on the smog stuff but it seems like it did not have alot of it. Maybe a 49 state car?
One thing you should check is the diameter of your exhaust system. You want 2" diameter for stock or even mild 200. If it were mine I would tune what you have as stated previously but start investigating and looking for a Carter from a 300 six or a Autolite 1101 from a 250. From what I have read the Weber is a great performance carb but it seems to be a little more difficult to tune and probably beyond my skills. But that could be a part of the experience you want to share with your son.
 
Been a few weeks gone on vacation and giving my son some time to come to terms with having a 51 year old car. Hasn't quite decided that it's worth the effort to get it running right.

So I got the Performance book and have done a ton of reading in the tech archive. Per advice I'm in search of a service/shop manual.

Question is, am I looking for the official ford shop manual for 1979, or would the standard Haynes or Chilton be sufficient? I found a set of shop manuals for 79 online in book or cd formats. A set five manuals covering all aspects. Electrical, Body, Engine, etc,... These appear to cover all Ford models for that year. Not a bad thing, but the print form, which I prefer, is $89. I can get both Haynes and Chilton manuals for the 78-83 Fairmont/Zephyr for like $26 combined.

Thanks,
 
Tune it.

The 1946 Holley and YFA Carter were swapped between the 200 and 250 in the 1977/1978 Mavericks and 1975-1980 Granadas.

Each of those two 1-bbls had a 1.3125" venturi. Along with other modifications, the 1966 240 Big Six 1.29" venturi Autolite 1101 carb Ak Miller used in his 1967 Hopped up Horse Mustang took rear wheel horspower from 65 to over 100 hp. Every good hp engine had the bigger venturi carb.

Personally, based on the figures, the bigger 1-bbl Ford carbs are more hp. Swapping carbs is not the first thing to do if the one that is there is good enough.

65 rwhp is 82 hp flywheel net hp,

100 or 105 rwhp is 126 to 133 flywheel net hp. In net hp increase at the flywheel, thats 44 to 51 hp.

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/a ... page-4.pdf

"Horsing Around With The Mustang Six"
This article is a reprint from Hot Rod Magazine by Ak Miller from a 1968 Ford Tech bulletin (Thanks Doug!)
http://www.cometcentral.com/tech/hm6/index.html
"Horsing Around With The Mustang Six Part II"
This article is a reprint from Hot Rod Magazine by Ak Miller Part 2 of the above article
http://www.cometcentral.com/tech/h2/index.html


The relatively straightforward and inexpensive modifications up to this point added 35 (rear wheel) horsepower to the Mustang six banger. Ak got still another 25 horsepower with additional modifications, some of which were not so common

I've never had any problems with any of Fords emissions era 3.3's...they were fully debugged by 1980 to 1983.

Its a dark ages, medieval ignorance that previals, in opposition to the published facts, and numerouss stoshes on the internet don't alter the facts.


No other book is as usefull as The Falcon 6 Performance Handbook. Even though it has a 1976 to 1983 frontal labotomy.


CZLN6":3sl5nv2n said:
To All interested:

X has been making a case for the Late model Holley #1946. We have mentioned it the handbook but have not recommended it for several reasons. They are that the 1946 requires a few to many links to vacuum switches and thermal switches and other links to function properly. Most moders want something that can be bolted on an go. The 1946 is not user friendly to the shade tree tuner. That is why we keep our recommends to early Holleys, Autolites and Carter YFs and RBS.

IF you are capable of navigating the labyrinth of support structures for a 1946, like X is, have at it.

Hey Kissangle, have we scared you away? Overwhelmed you? Let us know how you are doing.

Adios, David


The Home page shows that the advice and details drops off at the 1976 to 1983 era. The book would have to be another 100 pages longer to get those systems nailed.

There is no 1976 to 1983 info on 3.3 and 4.1 sixes. http://www.falcon6handbook.com/facts.html






All the net readings from 1972 o 1976 were down on the 1978 to 1983 3.3 engines.

The 1976 to 1983 info you need is this. The evidence is in Fords EPA mandadted power and torque figures.


Increased torque at lower rpm, and higher compression, and power was 3 times out 4 times better than the 72-76 3.3, with 1972's 3.3 T code the only exception.

xctasy":3sl5nv2n said:
hotroady":3sl5nv2n said:
"As for the exhaust, I am skeptical of the benefits of X's adaptation of the cat exhaust manifold. I'm curious if anyone has ever done it and more curious about how well it worked"

I agree with David. The X cat may be a handy place to mount a turbo, but would kill bottom end torque for street driven 200. 41/4 in outlet would allow more volume of gas, but it slows the exiting velocity of the exhaust gas. I'd use 68 exhaust manifold, or go to a tuned header.

Be sceptical, that is always good. But up to 9.5 extra horsepower and 6 lb-ft extra torque of evidence is evidence enough.
The header is 4-1/4", but not fully into the exhaust header pipe; its annular area is just cousioned boundary layer, so its very efficent. Probably why the torque peak magnitude is rasied, and the peak rpm sometimes dropped. Its torque and power is improved throughout the rev range, even with the cam channge they made.

Mistake ridden, there could be 12.5 hp and 7 lb-ft extra if anyone is silly enough not to crosscheck the 4speed SROD Mercury Capri 3.3 RS Hatch article on page 64 to 66 in Motor Trend March 1981.

MotorTrendMarch1981.jpg


I'm sure it did a 19.08 second quarter mile at 71 mph and a 90 mph top speed. I had my 1981 Hatch to 95 mph with ease. On that car with a 0.46 drag factor, 20.8 sq ft frontal area, and 190 section tires, that acceleration rate and terminal trap speed speed requires 87 hp at least to move a 2640 pound car with two testers and a full tank of gas, and only 67 hp to make 90 mph, and 78 to make 95 mph and just 90 flywheel hp to make 100 mph.

Feed in 3055 pounds and 87hp into the http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php program.

is 19.07 seconds and MPH of 70.86 MPH.


If we accept that the 97.5 hp at 4000 and 161 lb-ft 1400 rpm is Jim MacQueen's eye sight error while perhaps proof reading under a Helmick Covered Bridge ,

( along with the Holley VV 2-bbl carb -it was a Holley 1-bbl 1946C
and a Ford mistake, the 2.49 final drive ratio -it was a 3.08:1 axle with 0.81 overdrive 4th on the last SROD's before the T4 got subbed in later in 1981 with the 2.47 axle)

in this March 1981 Motor Trend article

http://www.ascmclarencoupe.com/Literatu ... 1981_2.jpg

then the real Detalis were ex SAE and from http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... comparison

Info depends on where you look. The Mustang site mustangattitude.com for T and B codes.

Has 87HP for 1982 http://mustangattitude.com/cgi-bin/...show=All&view=engine&optn=B-code&comm=&page=1

, and 94 hp for 1981

http://mustangattitude.com/mustang/engine_allhp.shtml


http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?32233-Ford-Fox-Engine-Reference-Guide

The engine code is the 5th digit of the VIN on pre-81 models
The engine code is the 8th digit of the VIN on 81-up models

1979-79 Mustang
200 CI (3.3L) 1bbl I6
Vin code: T
compression: 8.5:1
horsepower: 85hp @ 3600rpm
torque: 154 lbs-ft @ 1600rpm
Availability: 1978-79

1980-88 Cougar
200 CI (3.3L) 1bbl I6
Vin code: B, T
compression: 8.6:1
horsepower: 91hp @ 3800rpm
torque: 160 lbs-ft @ 1600rpm
Availability: 1980-82

1981-82 Granada
200 CI (3.3L) 1bbl I6
Vin code: B, T
compression: 8.5:1
horsepower: 88hp @ 3800rpm
torque: 154 lbs-ft @ 1400rpm
Availability: 1981-82

1983-86 LTD
200 CI (3.3L) 1bbl I6
Vin code: X
compression: 8.5:1
horsepower: 92hp @ 3800rpm
torque: 156 lbs-ft @ 1400rpm
Availability: 1983

1983-86 Marquis
200 CI (3.3L) 1bbl I6
Vin code: X
compression: 8.5:1
horsepower: 92hp @ 3800rpm
torque: 156 lbs-ft @ 1400rpm
Availability: 1983


94.5 hp was the rated amount for a 1980 B-code manual, but it varied from 87 to 94.5 nominal 1980 thru to 1983, with any number of ratings between 87 and 94.5.

Torque was the same or up to 6 lb-ft more, at less rpm, depending on year.

In addition, Ford at some stage had to detox the engine for manual gearboxes, while some areas didn't have that option. Even when Ford retarded and played with the camshaft, the result was still more power and more torque with this exhaust in an era where there was now a mandatory air pump, and secondary AIR in CA models. The 1980 B code model had 9.5 hp extra over the 1979. Then it varied according to other changes in 1981, 1982, and 1983, but always more than 85 hp by 3 to 7 hospower. Rated torque was often up despite the variances.

Those 93 extra systems are listed here....took me 5 years to complie that from about Seven other Ford Fox, Truck In line Six and Ford Service Technician experts

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=75674&p=591463#p591463

Post #11 by xctasy » Mon Jun 12, 2017
To the late Dennis Hot 6t Falcon and his brother David CZLN6

This is the all encompassing Thermactor/ IMCO and pre Port EFI list formed from 5 years work on the photo's and descriptions from consultation with four other websites, and a lot of very good, very helpfull people. For our EFI Big Six guys, these terms help, although they don't include TFi, PIP, SPOUT, and the details which most owners have quickly learned from the modern Injection world, and its much easier than the 1978 to 1983 3.3 small six and 1978 to 1980 4.1 small six era.

That's because


A. no one understands the 1976 to 1983 emissions parts.


B. There is an evil, ill thinkin' Dumb A$$ campaign to rip off the 13 to 93 parts that consitute the 1976 to 1983 US EPA and Federal Emissions gear, and


C. the truth is, any removal of anything won't liberate one hp. Not one. An engine is a combination of matching parts.



The reason the 1976 to 1983 engines made 85 to 94.5 hp was

1. Cam Lift,
2. Valve lift,
3. Cylinder head air flow at the valve (it doesn't hurt power if the cam is optimized, but added air flow generally adds power, although there are expections).

The engine fell flat at 3500 rpm because you've got six pistons being fed through one 1-11/16" (1.6875") log intake.


Other in service factors then degreade the orginal 85 hp.
4. Fuel system delivery via a clean system with good clean fuel tank and pickup, good fuel pump, and clean fuel lines is required to be up to spec.

Static Pressure: 5 to 7 psi
Volume: Minimum 0.23 liters (1 pint) in 20 seconds
Eccentric total lift: 0.290-0.310 inches
Some of the sending units have filter socks on their sumps, they clog. The threads on the carb at the filter are known to strip and leak with constant loosening and tightening

Murky Fuel lines and tanks, tank and line varnish and vac lines that aren't vac lines anymore, hardened or blocked to distibutor fittings

5. Exhaust flow (the backpressure must be measured with a 1/8" BSP fuel pressure gauge, and must be less than 4 psi at 4500 rpm)

DV_page_84_fig%205_9_10_11_Exhaust_Backpressue_Determinations.jpg


You do that by braising in 1/8" fuel pressure fitting in the exhaust by oxy acetaline. Or a narrow or wide band HEGO sensor with the same size as a spark plug, and get an adaptor and check it for backpressue the same time.

and


6. tailoring the Ignition advance curve (checked against stock specs, with the hookups as per the 1976 to 1983 Emissions tuning label), but mapped and checked. wsa111 is a good contact on this bord to have it revamped viewtopic.php?f=34&t=76480&p=588846#p588846 )

You need to list the following mapped out like 1bad6t did

chart5.gif


As FalconSixDelivery from this company said



its nice to have a grocery list, but unless its calibrated and tested with the right vac arrangement for your planned application...., your just guessing....

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72349&p=555788#p555788

cr_bobcat":3sl5nv2n said:
So I've finally gotten around to mapping the timing events of this .....distributor. This morning I just measured with the vacuum can connected. Tomorrow morning I will measure with it disconnected and the hose plugged. I started at about 700 RPM as this was about as low as I could drop it and keep the engine running reliably.

RPM Timing
----------------
700 16
800 16
900 16
1000 16
1250 20
1500 25
1750 34
2000 39
2250 42
2500 45
2750 47
3000 50

I have an timing light with a built in tach and advance adjustment. Obviously all measurements here are approximate.

This seems a bit aggressive to me but obviously I don't know for sure what this profile should look like otherwise I wouldn't be here. I'm pretty sure my curve is off but that's based off of a gut feeling that I feel like there's more power to be had with my current setup. She just feels a little mushy. Am I right in my assumption here or are things looking ok? Do I need to take some more measurments with vacuum connected?

Pertinent info: idle currently set at 1000, Holley 1940 carb, stock exhaust, unknown cam (let's assume stock), C4, unknown rear-end (again, let's just assume stock)

I still plan to measure how much vacuum I have but haven't gotten that far yet. I've got a guage but I just haven't taken the time to do it. I should just do that tomorrow when I plan to disconnect the can and check to see how much mechanical advance I'm actually looking at.

7. The stock single row timing chain is loose, and is retarding the cam postion and influencing spark scatter. The cam lobes won't even be making 370 thou lift, and might be worn, and the lifter preload, if not set right, will be loosing hp.

On a 1963 pre -emissions 200, or a 1983 3.3, the out of spec exhaust, ignition and cam timing have the same result...power loss.




The 1-bbl Holley 1946 and YFA Carter were Fords weapons of choice for the Fox and F 150, respectively.

Fox 3.3 made 85 hp in 1978, then 91 hp in 1980, then dropped back to 87 hp till 1983. It was quoted as 94.5 hp in some other write ups. The old 120, 115 and 110 hp gross ratings were about 82 hp net, so the 1978 to 1983 3.3's were 12.5 hp more powerfull than the 1963 to 1977 200's.

F150 made 114 to 123 hp from 1972 to 1986, with a carb the same size as the Holley 1946...they are interchangable, and the Holley jetted 1946 makes more power than the YFA if you swap the 61 jet out for a bigger jet.


The reason it made 85, 87 and 91 hp was the cam lift, the stock cam has 256° duration. 0.368" lift and 28° overlap."

Lets compare the other Maliase Era 1978 to 1983 V6's and overseas in line Six Falcon engines.

The 1979 and later 1983 2.8 2-BBL V6 made 18 to 23 hp more than the 3.3 (109 and then 114 hp), easily enough to bring back the power balance in favour of a proper 3.3. It was withdrawn between 1980 and 1982, then came back for the Ranger, Bronco II and Aerostar Van with another 5 hp.

In Australia that year, 1981, a 3.3 liter engine made 114 hp, the cam was the same duration as the US 3.3, the carb a 1-bbl and it had a more restrictive exhaust.

The Aussie 3.3 made more power by


1. extra cam lift via 1.73:1 rockers and

2. 145 cfm of intake flow at 435 thou vlave lift in the head, and

3. a detonation reistant 9.15:1 compression head on 97 octane gas.


The 79-83 V6 made the extra power via


1. 276 degree cam duration and

2. a V8 spec 1.14 " 2-BBL carburator.

It did that with less than a 8.7:1 compression ratio, 87 octane gas.

Its heads flowed 110 cfm at 400 thou lift, about the same as the 3.3 D8 and E0/E1 heads. So it had a lot of ability to rev from 3500 to 5800 rpm, but it was the cam and carb that made the extra 18-23 hp, not the cylinder head flow or any compression bump up.

Emission control only required a lower compression ratio to meet the 50000 mile durablity test, and avoid breaking the cast iron con rods.


Adding 1 ratio of compression gives you 3 extra horspower.


http://www.bgsoflex.com/crchange.html":3sl5nv2n said:
Bowling's Compression Ratio -> HP Calculator
Computation Results:

Engine Horsepower (peak) is 85
Old Compression Ratio is 8.35
New Compression Ratio is 9.35
Computation Results:
Computed New Engine HP is 88, a 3 percent change

So how do you close the difference between the 109 and 114 hp engines verses the US 3.3, and make more torque?


Cam lift, valve lift, clean up of the valve pockets and backcutting the intakes, a bigger jet, and in your case, understanding how the Air Fuel ratio works

Best advice?

Wide band O2 sensors which give you air fuel ratios are just fine if you have the time and money, but auto engineers went to CO2 readings many years ago to simplify it, and the black CO to AIR fuel ratio in terchange is the easiest system to tune a jet to if the cars under load.

These are the is the graphs...
Toyotas later graph

Black line for CO on the right axis
airfuel.jpg


Crytons graph is the blue line for CO
airfuelratio5big.GIF


At 15.1 to 13:1, CO % via the sniffer test is VERY accurate as it drops like a fly in the frost....

Soooo

You could jet up from the stock 61 1946 Holley jet, check your fuel air under 25 mph load at an I/M test station, and stop up jetting when you get to a % CO under load of about 2%, which is a about 13.8 parts or air to one of fuel. 14.7 or 15.1 (..75 to 0.60% CO) is too lean under load for our cars. 4.5 to 5% CO is ideal wide open throttle 12.5:1 one.

This is how we tuned our old propane vehciles in the 80'S for safety, although that was done by allen key and screw, not jet change

Modern ways aren't always the easiest. Every garage has access to tuning gear, rather than pay for individual equipment, you use the I/.M stuff
 
Yikes, X you make my head hurt.

So Pop, my father-n-law came over.

One flathead screwdriver, one Phillips screwdriver, one 13 box wrench, one can of carb cleaner and one can of wd40 later and it's running like night and day better. Apparently it did have a vacuum leak. Not tested yet, but we noticed upon inspection that the carb was not firmly attached and that all the body screws on the carb were loose. You could rock it back and forth on the mounting bolts and it shook on start up.

Tightening everything improved things dramatically. Hence my assumption that David was correct about the vacuum leak. Pop then adjusted the air screw and idle screw and got it idling much smoother. Idle and throttle response are both greatly improved.

Hopefully this will be the "win" my son needed to show him that the old inline is worth the effort.

XStacy, hope I didn't offend. Your responses are extremely in depth and honestly a little beyond my knowledge level. All that said, thanks for responding and hopefully we'll get to the point of being able fully benefit from your breadth of knowledge by the time we get the Stang in top shape.
 
like that '81 Capri for 30 MPGs hiway (200 i6)
 
Howdy Harlon:

Good going calling in Pop. Glad to hear you're making progress all the way around. Keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
The twin advance vacuum takeoff on the Duraspark II is what I'd personally use.
A. no one understands the 1976 to 1983 emissions parts.


B. There is an evil, ill thinkin' Dumb A$$ campaign to rip off the 13 to 93 parts that consitute the 1976 to 1983 US EPA and Federal Emissions gear, and


C. the truth is, any removal of anything won't liberate one hp. Not one. An engine is a combination of matching parts.

In my humble opinion, your m-u-c-h better off understanding this $h!+t than pulling it off.

Ported vacuum is a very dirty word in modern emissions equipment, but it exists.

I only trust two guys here,

Bill (wsa111) viewtopic.php?f=99&t=76821



and Faron (FalconSixDelivery).


Like any two people, they both have differing views, but both don't use the emissions era three valve interplay. And that is how all guys in the US do Duraspark/DUI/HEI recurves,

drop the dual advance,
and
recurve,
and
use a simple Ported or Manifold advance, depending on your creed.


I don't aggree with ANY of that, but I don't sell distributor systems in the USA, but have used the stock Emissions era systems, and they work.

You just need to understand them

The Ford Holley 1946 1-bbl small i6 with Duraspark and Chrysler Holley 1945 1-bbl Slant Six Solid State Ignition era reverted to a three way advance system, which was designed to avoid problems with the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) and emerging EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) and Thermactor systems with Secondary AIR systems.


Ford, AMC and Chrylser and GM had to cow tow to the raft of Federal Motor Vehicle Emissions Standards, and create elaborate diagrams and video service information to fix the terms not to upset technocrats. A billion dollar cost to Detroit and the big Four.

After the Spark Control Valve era of 1953 to 1967,
the 1966-1985 Improved Combustion (IMCO)
and over lapping "Themactor" era (1966-date)

This all started forcing Ford to add Air Cleaner Motors (vacuum controls for hot and cold operation), Spark Delay Valves and Distovac systems to wack in a heap of advance to warm a cold engine up. That stuff really worked very well, and its foolish in my opinion to remove it if you are Daily Driving your Ford Six.

That forced Ford to use an"MPS" interplay



Manifold, Ported and Spark vacuum interplays together to get very quick warm up on some 1969-1973 and all 1978-1983 Fords. The spark advance system got a whole lot more complicated in 1969 when 10.7 to 11.1:1 compression 290 and 300 hp plus 302 Boss and 351 4V engine combinations got let loose, and they same with the Autolite dual advance distributor used on Maverics, Falcons, Cometes etc.

Distrovac was first, then Electronic Spark Timing, and EGR and Secondary AIR Thermactors weren't added on all I6's till very late in the game, because in everywhere excpet California/LA Basin and High Altitidue areas, the 170/200/250 sixes were clean enough without EGR and Themactors.








That system continued right up to the last 4-bbl Holley 370/429/460 trucks, the F150/F250/F350 4.9 sixes, and its dead simple.

Very helpfull Vehicle Emission Control Information labels (VECI diagrams) like these exist,





And very helpfull Electrical and Vacuum Technical Memorandums (EVTM) exist, like this




but its patchy for 1966 to 1979 in line sixes, and you have to ask someone to help.

But the info is there, and many people ace the class on the yards of emission yarn spun under the hood of 1975 to 1983 small sixes. Its nothing to be scared of, because it takes care of cold, warm, and transitional engine tune, as well as emissions.

The 92 page Falcon Six performance handbook by David and Dennis Schjeldahl contains vital performance tips, but it won't help regards emissions because it literally would have had to be 500% bigger to cater for the 1975 to 1983 small sixes, and, wisely, the brothers were clear about that. You get 460 pages of info here, take it of leave it. You don't have to follow my advice, but all my info is from the Ford technical helps worldwide.

The emissions area creates a L-O-T of problems for book writers, but the internet is your friend, and making a 1946 Holley or YFA Carter work is really simple.


The problem, the only one, is a lack of helpfull responses on forums to this stuff.

I can help. But you've gotta whip out the "If I remove this $h!+,I'll be bettor off" mentality. You won't.

For Carter YFA stuff with Duraspark II, I started the helping process with these posts. They all contain Emissions era information, the Falcon Six Performance Handbook doesn't.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72607&p=562727#p562727 "Converting to a Carter YF and Throttle Cable"

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=75091
xctasy":w027nbnm said:
.....
Your conversion is exactly like Frankenstang's viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72607&p=562727#p562727


and Asa's. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=76871 and viewtopic.php?f=1&t=76774


All tuning problems with YFA's are just PCV, ignition and metering rod "needle" and jet specification settings. There is a little in the rebuilding process, and about 85% of all rebuilt YFA carbs are in fact wrong for a small log 65 200 Mustang.

Ford got forced into using Carter YFA carbs by the need to hook into 1968 Autolite ignition and the IMCO and Thermactor hookups, right at the same time Chevrolet stopped using Carter carbs (although Carter still made Rochester carbs, millions of them, for Chevy and GM for many years)

Once you've got the right basic adaptor to mount it with enough proper clearance for the throttle blade...you got it made.

There is a reason this carb survived from 1950 to 1989...it was a brilliant, accurate carb with a lot of development work done on it by the Big Four automakers. And the basic design is very, very sound.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=68702&p=526544#p526544 "Holley 1946 Install pics"
MrMootsie":w027nbnm said:
Made the car 100% more driveable. Very little clearance between air cleaner and hood, though, but it works.


http://i325.photobucket.com/albums/k374 ... ie/007.jpg









 
I very much appreciate this info Dean.

Almost bought an '82 LTD wagon (fox body) w/V8. Burt Reynolds beat me to the buy.
THAT car I would attempt to keep stock in the above regard.
 
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