Which 2100 Jet Sizes for Conversion

Ok, so I've completed my conversion. Later this fall I'll start my series of posts over at herbelgarage.wordpress.com for it (and wait 'til you see the nice stainless steel bracket for running the throttle and kickdown cables over the valve cover). I got it to idle fine in park but when in gear it is rough. I noticed tranny fluid in one of the modulator vacuum lines so I have a new one on the way. That said, it does run rich. I set the float to the lowest on the chart, which I think was a 66 289 (incidentally that's what the carb is off of). That helped, but still wondering about it all. The jets are 50F. What are others running and/or recommending? Currently the cam is stock. The head was planed .075 per the Ford Falcon Handbook, to make up for the gasket and get compression back to stock or maybe a tad more (the head is a 1980). I also put in higher ratio rockers and had a 30 degree cut on the valves. I'm running dual outlet headers into a Y pipe.

Your best bet would use a wideband A/F tester. Need cruising, WOT, idle & part throttle transition readings, like driving around the neighborhood @ 15-25 MPH.
Then we can go from here.
Maybe CZLN6 or X will chime in, Bill

50F are enough for about 125 hp net with a 1.08 or 1.14 289 195-200 Hp Gross carb. Best start point .


Your first step is understanding what advance system your engine will like best when its optimised to suit the cam, carb and exhaust and head modifications you have.

You'll otherwise spend time jetting it again and again. Ford tailers the Power Valve to suit the old style distributor advance systems Ford used, and you are leaving a whole heap of economy and power on the table if you just figure on jetting changes. Fords Annular discharge 2100/2150's are very advanced, and a Holley is very adjustable and not quite as structured as the Autolite/Motorcraft. The Holley always gets better results for power, and when tuned right, is clean and economical. Autolite/Motorcrafts need the emissions support parts to work well, that atomise fule finer, but make less power as a result, and take up more space and have othe kinds of Power Vlave enrichment stratergies. What Bill does for Holleys, he does quickly, and simply. 2100 Autolites and 2150 Motorcrafts are a lot more needing of structure in the support emissions package to jet right.


Get the right Ford EV-98-B Motorcraft PCV Valve #D9ZZ-6A666-A (1980-2001 V8 item). The right PCV valve sure helps.

wsa111":4wxc8j7r said:

All the major parts stores carry them.
HOWEVER you will suck oil into the PCV valve. One choice is move the valve via an 2" hose to raise the hose above the valve cover.

The C.I. valve cover is just a copy of Cliffords cast valve cover, a good looking piece of junk.
From an engineering design the cover should be 1/4" higher to clear a decent baffle over the PCV valve just like the factory stamped steel cover.
You can use double valve cover gaskets to raise the cover.
You can then install a sheet metal baffle to the top of the cover. The 4 bosses are cast into the cover, but need to be drilled & tapped to fasten an OEM style baffle.
That's why they pay factory engineers to do the design correctly, rather than a parts copier of a poorly designed product.

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The right TVS switches to open and close the air cleaner helps.viewtopic.php?f=1&t=76870

Get some back ground on how a good 2bbl Ford carb should perform on an six cylinder Ford.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=76966

"Direct mount Autolite 2100 jet size"

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=76855&p=591541&hilit=Autolite+jets#p591541


Now Ford F stamped jets....the stock ones are the ones to use and keep as a baseline. The post above describes how to do it.



Bill moves on to proper, modern tech, and throws the best technology at a Holley carb (after the ignition is properly set up for a target hp level based on the cam timing, exhaust and head configuation). That technology is an Innovate A/F tester, and Bills knows generally what variation there is in air fuel ratio, so he just picks the right jetting and air bleeds based on the four out puts under the conditions he stated above. That kind of work always gets results, and he likes good fuel pressure, good, final ignition, and a certain kind of vac setup. That ensures your bang on, not any guessing.

Others use Bills SMI fully calibrated carb method....Bill was a first with this kind of stuff way back.

Mike from Canada below does this on Holleys and Autolite/Motorcraft carbs.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... arb-for-83

Walking-Tall":4wxc8j7r said:

To explain further for the use of an Autolite/Motorcraft or a Holley to achieve best economy, and "compliance" with the least amount of "emissions"...

Autolite/Motorcraft 2100/2150 2-barrels (and 4100 4-barrels)


IFR/IDCR (make adjustable with 8-32 brass socket setscrews):

Primary IAB (make adjustable with 8-32 or 10-32 brass socket setscrews):

Holley 2300/3160/4150/4160/4165/4175/4500 (and Demon, AED, QFT, etc.)

IFR (left) and PVCR:

Primary IAB (outers):

For working with a 4180, different (but the theory/aspect of the modifications as above applies the same) operations/locations to modify the idle/low-speed/transition circuit will be necessary to get outside of the box of it's limited adjustment window for idle AFR, but especially for lean-best low-speed/transition/cruise (efficiency, economy, and least emissions) AFR.

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Howdy Revherbel:

Great project. Let me get this straight. The symptom that you are addressing is a rough idle when in gear. Is that correct? Any other symptoms?

First, more information from you; What distributor/ignition are you using? What do the spark plugs look like? What is the idle speed when in gear? What is the elevation where you live? Did you rebuild the carb before installing?

Are you planning for a cam change in the future?

In general- when upgrading on a 200 engine, re-jetting a 2100 is seldom needed in applications like yours. Resolve all other issues before starting to rejet. Carb tuning issues are almost alway related to ignition problems.

FYI- The Holley power valves can be used in a 2100 for better fine tuning for economy and acceleration. They are rated to open at specific vacuum levels.

Keep it coming and good luck.

Adios, David

Thank you all. I'll get the new modulator installed and see how it goes from there. Currently, yes, the only problem I have is the engine idling rough in gear. RPMs are at 900 if I remember correctly (might be closer to 800) in park and timing had to be advanced a little. If I remember correctly, it is at 10 degrees. Anyhow, that's where it seemed to want to be--more advanced than the stock 6 degrees. Idles fine in park. The reason I'm concerned it's rich is there is some fuel getting on the main gasket and the rough idle in gear but I know the modulator is at least part of that problem. So, I thought I'd ask about jetting and such. Plugs look fine. Ignition is a later distributor (engine cast says '69) with a pertronix I installed last year. I hadn't thought of putting in a V8 PCV, as mentioned above. So, one step at a time, it seems. First, the modulator.

Howdy Back Herb:

Starting with the leaky Modulator is a good plan. Also know that the '69 distributor with be a centrifugal and vacuum advance that will be very compatible with the two barrel you have. Incidently, the carb is likely at 1.14 Autolite. Take a look on the side of the fuel bowl. You'll see a number embossed on the metal.

Once you get the modulator replaced, try 12 degrees initial and see how that works. Since it has a Petronix conversion gap the plugs out to .045".

A thought from the past; we searched for a similar miss once- Carb and distributor. It turned out to be a bad, Original from '65 spark plug wire. A new set of plug wires and the idle was smooth. Just a thought.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Adios, David

Hi ,
I just find a 1.08 Autolite , C9 AF H , A 95 30 .
Can you say me if it's a good carb for direct mount ?
Thanks

1966_l6":1skc4rh7 said:

Hi ,
I just find a 1.08 Autolite , C9 AF H , A 95 30 .
Can you say me if it's a good carb for direct mount ?
Thanks

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a 302 2v Windsor 2-bbl carb I'm guessing, Fred.

50F are enough for about 125 PS net with a 1.08 or 1.14 289 195-200 Hp Gross carb. Best start point .


The jets that originally came with the carb are the best starting point.

For the T5 and other US exports, the actual US 1972 to date Net Horsepower figures were quoted to West Germany's TUV as something like 172.6 hp for the 200 Hp 2-bbl 289...the 302 2V was about the same for 1969.

viewtopic.php?t=74460

xctasy":1skc4rh7 said:

.....
And when Ford was getting away with reporting Gross HP ( such as its laughable 240 hp at 4600 rpm G code tunnel port twin 4-bbl 1968 G code 302's which actually made 290 hp Net at 5400 rpm), Germany required a DIN net engine dyno test for a T5 Mustang to be registered in Germany. It just so happens the DIN net ratings were the assigned to the US SAE Gross ratings, making the 200 Gross 2V and 225 Gross 4V 289's respectively 172.6 and 187.4 hp net. ( 1 PS = 0.986 Net HP). Now, if Ford wasn't taking the rating at another point on the rpm curve like it did all the time in the late 50's and early 70's, the Net hp reading would have been 16.6% uniformly lower. As that is the difference on all other SAE Gross to DIN Net conversions.

SAE HP Net vs DIN Net is just a correction for engine bay ancillaries and temprature

See how the factory ratings of 289's, 390's and 410's fell. http://www.at.ford.com/SiteCollectio...brochure_2.jpg

German TUVBHP DIN Net VIN Code Year CID SAE Gross BHPBore StrokeCarb Comp Ratio
105 PS 104 bhpDIN net T 65 199.5 120 @ 4400 3.680 x 3.126 1V 9.2:1
130 PS 128 bhpDIN net V 65 239.4 155 @ 4400 4.000 x 3.175 1V 9.2:1
175 PS 173 bhpDIN net C 65-67 288.5 200 @ 4400 4.000 x 2.870 2V 9:1
190 PS 187 bhpDIN net A 66-67 288.5 225 @ 4800 4.000 x 2.870 4V 10:1
230 PS 227 bhpDIN net X 67-69 389.6 280 @ 4400 4.050 x 3.780 2V 10.5:1
265 PS 261 bhpDIN net Z 66-68 389.6 315 @ 4600 4.050 x 3.780 4V 10.5:1
280 PS 276 bhpDIN net M 66-67 410.2 330 @ 4600 4.050 x 3.980 4V 10.5:1
295 PS 291 bhpDIN net MEL 66-68 461.7 340 @ 4600 4.380 x 3.830 4V 9.2:1



And therein lies the lesson.... readings in the pictures above.

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I'm wondering what head (as some R better than others) U have.

Which ever U have - research the exacting details for this mod. I have seen more mistakes than successes when assemblers, machinests, forge welders/jb welders, mechanics & the rest of the team (or individual owners/modifiers) complete this very useful process. The best use a "add B4 subtract" kinda (2 or 3 step) method.

EDIT:
OK, got it now "E0"
if matching

The 50F jets I had in the carb are still there. The car now runs better. Got some input from a good local tuner. There was some corrosion in the choke that had to be taken car of (so it now has an auto choke). Also, made sure the Pertronix was getting it's 12 volts and valves in cylinders 5 and 6 were too tight. So, all told, it seems to be running all right now and I've been driving it around town. Haven't taken it out on a road trip yet but it seems to be doing well--sounds better and pulls better. It's no speed demon but better than it had been stock.