1970 Ford 170 Cu In. Rear Seal

Wascator

Active member
Hi, All: I am starting to prepare for reassembly of my Ford 170, and I have a question about the rear seal. My engine has the pin removed from the seal, so I think it already had a rubber lip seal in place of the rope seal when it was disassembled. The gasket set I got is German, and it has rope seals. It also has the two rubber pan seals, and nothing else. Is it hard to buy just the rubber rear seal? I am not certain how to install the rope seals anyway. Thoughts?
I tapped out all the threaded holes in the block and cleaned everything up. I have never seen a machine shop spray paint the interior of the crankcase and bottom of the pan gasket surface with what appears to be casting-colored paint. Even the main cap landings had paint on them. I scraped paint most of the afternoon to get rid of this stuff. Hummm...
 
If its been rebuilt, a good engine builder will use Glyptal 1201 to cover the inside castings so they don't leach sand. After hot tanking again after a remeachine, the painted internal surfaces are baked for a couple of hours. Done right, it sticks like teflon to a De Loren, or like Schtuck to a blanket

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Its done mostly on Ford engines, and the chemical is used on electric motor reconditioning. Ford engines suffer more than most from oil windage with revs, Glyptal 1201 helps with that too.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/thr ... er.644312/


I'd find another roll pin, and use a rope seal. They are just great. You have to really run them in, as the drag will hurt your idle speed and if you run a 90 to 130 amp alternator, you'll get nohing but problems with idle for a month of Sundays untill it beds in, but its the best solution. Neoprene seals, well, they were cost devised, and they work, but not always as well a s a good rope seal. If your engine oil weight is dropped, a rope seal can leak, but so can a neoprene one.

Enjoy your engine rebuild. They are sweet engines.
 
Love inline engines! I managed to find a NOS neoprene seal. I understand from "The Guys" that sometimes shops paint castings to prevent them from rusting until the customer can clean them up and assemble them. Still I think it's strange to have to scrape paint from bearing saddles and gasket surfaces after a professional machine shop bores out a block. Glyptal I know well; great casting sealer but unnecessary for a 100 Hp Ford six, IMO. To each his own.
RR
 
Most of the time I use the rubber rear main seals. When converting from a rope seal you first need to drive out the pin (in your case that's been done) in the cap that holds the rope seal and then clean the seals grove in the block and rear main cap throughly. When installing the new seal set the seal ends to about 10:00 and 4:00 you don't want the ends to be aligned with the blocks main cap parting line it can cause an oil leak. Be sure sure to install the seal correctly with the lip facing inward. Put a little dab of silicone only on the ends of the seal. Put a little oil to lube on the seal lip and crank surface. Good luck on your 170 rebuild. :nod:
 
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