200ci overheating

6

66mustang0103

Well-known member
I have a 66 mustang that is overheating. On a warm day (but not hot), it will heat up to 210 both going down the road and at idle. It would get hotter than that but I turn the heater on full and that helps to keep it cool some.
Below are what I have done to it:
1. Bran new radiator, it was a stock copper one. It was done in the last month due to the old one leaking.
2. New 195 degree thermostat (done in last month)
3. New weber 2 barrel carb (done in last month)
4. New HEI distributor (bought from WSA11 and is set at 14 degrees advance with vacumn off)
5. Electric fan mounted as a puller (probably about 3 years old)
6. Header

There is no air bubbles in the cooling system from what I can tell, and am at a loss on what to do next to help cool it down.

Thanks for any suggestions.
 
why a 195F thermostat in summer? those are for cold places to make the heater work better, and it starts to open at 195, but does not fully open until after 210.... get a 160, or 180 thermostat and watch those temps drop
 
66mustang0103":3urvegz4 said:
I have a 66 mustang that is overheating. On a warm day (but not hot), it will heat up to 210 both going down the road and at idle. It would get hotter than that but I turn the heater on full and that helps to keep it cool some.
Below are what I have done to it:
1. Bran new radiator, it was a stock copper one. It was done in the last month due to the old one leaking.
2. New 195 degree thermostat (done in last month)
3. New weber 2 barrel carb (done in last month)
4. New HEI distributor (bought from WSA11 and is set at 14 degrees advance with vacumn off)
5. Electric fan mounted as a puller (probably about 3 years old)
6. Header

There is no air bubbles in the cooling system from what I can tell, and am at a loss on what to do next to help cool it down.

Thanks for any suggestions.
Click to expand...
that said, I would not call 210F "overheated"
 
Hi, I run a 180 degree thermostat, and see what Bill would set the initial advance at. 14 may be much
Good luck
 
Josh, install a 180 thermostat.
I only sell real HEI's, but will recurve DUI's.
Set initial advance to 16-18 & run ported vacuum advance.
Make sure your cooling fans come on at 200 & shut off at 180. I have been getting my fan sensors from Speedway Motors.
If you encounter pinging go to 89 octane fuel.
If your A/F ratio is too lean that will aggravate a heating condition. Questions just give me a shout. Bill
 
Get a high flow stat as well. I just put one in the van a month ago. I wasn't overheating just changing the range with a different fan switch and needed a new stat with a lower range. Anyway it definitely flows more. The difference was apparent immediately. Even without the fan running. I used a Motorad 2000160, a 2000180 is the 180F version.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php ... 456&jsn=41
 
I'm new here and this might not apply but I've seen a 65 cobra roadster with glowing headers due to bad timing. That's actually how anti lag works on Turbo cars, but it gets things pretty hot
 
Have you ever pulled the plugs out of the block and cleaned the cooling galleries? I just did a '67 200 and it had a fair amount of rust in the water jacket in head and block.. almost the whole space around #6 was solid with rusty sludge. It would never have run cool even with the new radiator I have for it with all that junk in the block. Its all clean now so I should be good for another 50 years!
 
Howdy All:

One more thought for the poster- Did you change your lower radiator hose when you installed the new radiator? Old hoses can collapse and cut off circulation. Check it out.

Adios, David
 
CZLN6":34nyvn0h said:
Howdy All:

One more thought for the poster- Did you change your lower radiator hose when you installed the new radiator? Old hoses can collapse and cut off circulation. Check it out.

Adios, David
Click to expand...

Great advice. I had this happen a few years ago.
 
Seth-thanks for the high flow stat source. Probably many need these.
 
lahti35":34gxc1j0 said:
Have you ever pulled the plugs out of the block and cleaned the cooling galleries? I just did a '67 200 and it had a fair amount of rust in the water jacket in head and block.. almost the whole space around #6 was solid with rusty sludge. It would never have run cool even with the new radiator I have for it with all that junk in the block. Its all clean now so I should be good for another 50 years!
Click to expand...

This is right on. A lot of these engines have 50 years of calcium, rust, sand and general crap blocking the internals of the engine.

As for radiators, when I was looking for one I heard an argument that large 2 rows were actually better at cooling than 3 or 4 rows and it seemed compelling and I bit. I bought a 2 row with 1 1/8" cores and the seller insisted I was making the right choice and from what I can tell running it, he was right. A 250 in a 1964 small econoline doghouse, they got bigger in 65. Without the belly pan installed and cooling isn't a problem at all. After shutdown heat soak in that little insulated box is another issue though.

And your welcome bmbm40, I was amazed by how obvious it was in it's increase in cooling/flow. Granted this is on a new engine, with a clean block and a great radiator, but in a tiny insulated box in the summer in the mid 80's. I wish I could give you real numbers but I'm using the stock sender location for the oem dash guage and the port in the stat housing for the fan switch. I have a gauge to install on the front of the doghouse but I need to get a fitting that cut's into the top radiator hose and haven't gotten to it yet. But on the oem gauge the difference is that it used to hover in the middle+ when the fan came on to running near and a bit above the bottom and taking forever to get the 195F fan switch to kick in. The time it took to get the fan to come on was way longer after the new stat when I still had the old on @ 195F fan switch installed. Now it comes on @ 185F/ off @ 170F and still cycles! It does run more than it used to but It along with a fan delay timer is helping with the heat soak. I used to to crack the doghouse when I exited, now I don't have to.
 
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