Valve Train Install

Greetings! I have my freshly shaved head installed and I'm getting ready to install my valve train. I'm installing the 1.6 adjustable rocker set, ball&cup pushrods, and hydraulic lifters from Classic Inlines. This is a 76 Maverick 250.

1. Does the motor need to be rotated before/during installation of the rocker shaft?
2. Do I need to back off all the adjusters all the way before I install it?
3. Do I need to torque the rocker shaft down in a certain order? Is 30-35 ft-lbs ok?
4. Do I need to put assembly lube on the rocker arm contact points, pushrod tips, etc? I'm guessing yes, but I've seen vaseline mentioned.

The valve adjustment procedure (link below) looks straightforward from there, but it mentions that the lifters need to be collapsed. I soaked my lifters overnight before I installed them, but that was more than a month ago. Are they collapsed by now? If not, how do I do that?

ci/ValveAdj.html

Thanks in advance.
Bob

Hi, I would put assembly lube on everything, even oil up your rocker shaft. You don't have to turn the motor, just tighten each bolt slowly, a couple of turns on each bolt, go from the center to one end, then the other end, and repeat that to gently install the rocker shaft. I don't know the torque, but it is in the Chilton's manual. I would say if the lifters were soaking, they should be good. Good luck

Yep, just make sure everything is aligned as you tighten it down. The stands are aluminum or pot metal and will get distorted under too much torque, but it does need to 'pin' the shaft. According to classic inlines specs it's around #35, according to te falcon handbook it's 30-35# so you are right in there. After you get the assy on, if they are adjustable, you'll have to turn the motor as you set the preload on the valves/lifters from valve(s) to valve(s) so they are at closed when you make the adjustments.

I just re read your post and noticed you are talking about a 250 with adjustables. Did you use an adjustable length pushrod to measure the needed length? I don't know about the 1.6 ratio rockers but with the standard ones the ball and cup pushrods previously available from classic inlines tended to be to long. There is a thread or 2 about it if you do a forum search.

Econoline":3in6o54v said:

I just re read your post and noticed you are talking about a 250 with adjustables. Did you use an adjustable length pushrod to measure the needed length? I don't know about the 1.6 ratio rockers but with the standard ones the ball and cup pushrods previously available from classic inlines tended to be to long. There is a thread or 2 about it if you do a forum search.

Click to expand...

I agree that the right way to do it is to test with an adjustable first. I'm curious if anyone has done the same upgrade I have and what they used. I'm seeing the threads about pushrod length being an issue when the 250 head is used on a 200 or smaller, but nothing on a 250. I shaved it 75 thou, and after the aftermarket gasket, that leaves me with 50 thou of difference. I ordered stock-length pushrods, but CI also sells ones that are 1/8" shorter, which seemed too short, but...

Know anybody who has done what I've done and what they used? Details: Head shaved 75 thou, CI 1.6 rockers, stock cam, new lifters.

1/8 " shorter pushrods are probably OK. The big deal is to make sure that your rocker adjusters are threaded in plenty far. I put the adjustable rockers on my 78 250 with the ball and cup rod length that was 'recommended'. They were way too long and I could only get about two threads of engagement on the rocker adjustment. RAU cut a set for me using the dimension I gave them and all was good after that. I had a problem with the feel of the lifters and my adjustments were all over the place - some were pumped up more than others - some spun in my oily fingers easier than others etc, etc. The best way is to contact the lifter manufacturer if you can, and get the compression tolerance the suggest. Measure the width of one thread on your adjuster (which is how far the lifter would compress in one full turn) and then calculate how much of a turn you need to get to the middle of the tolerance figure. Just take the lash out and then turn the calculated amount at TDC and you're there. If I remember cylinders one and six are at top center at the same time. If cylinder one is at the top on compression, you can adjust half of the rockers, then one turn to get number 6 on TDC compression and the rest can be adjusted. Take it easy!!

I had some issues with the pushrod length on my 200. I ended up calling Matt and got some shorter ones and now everything is nice a square. I did use an adjustable rod to get a measurement.

Thanks all. I'm going to bolt it up and verify the pushrods aren't too long. Sounds like that's the biggest thing to watch out for.