Autolite 1101

65 Mustang

Well-known member
Hi Everyone,

I recently purchased an autolite 1101 for my '65 200 inline six. The intake on the cylinder head has been bored out from 1.5 to 1.75 inches to accept the larger carb. The carb is also a'65 and has the SCV which will work with my distributer. I know I'm going to need a new carb adapter plate (which I'm working on) to deal with slightly larger mounting holes. Just wondering if there is anything else I need to consider when making this change. Also, I'm running a manual transmission. The carb that I have is for the automatic transmission (that is, it contains the antistall dashpot on the right side). I figure it wouldn't hurt on a manual transmission. You just don't want to use the one without the antistll dashpot on the automatic. Is this correct thinking? Any advice on the switch would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
Howdy:

The bolt pattern should be the same- 1100 & 1101. IF not you can elongate the holes to fit.

YEs, your thinking is correct on the use of the auto trans 1101. We preferred core 1100s and 1101s because the the throttle shaft is usually tighter on the auto carbs.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress and results.

Adios, David
 
Great. Thanks for reply Dave. I was searching some older posts on this topic. Someone was concerned about the channels on the bottom of the 1101 that are not present on the 1100 as they could possibly cause a vacuum leak. Not sure if that will be an issue. Any thoughts on that?
 
Hi Again,

Was cleaning and rebuilding the autolite 1101 this afternoon when I realized something. I had the intake manifold bored open to accept the 1.75 bore on the carb but completely forgot about the carburetor spacer plate. When I placed the carb on it, I quickly realized the throttle would not be able to open unless this is addressed. So, my thought is to bring it down to the machine shop to bore the spacer wider. However, those channels are coming up again! This time the channels in the spacer plate not on the bottom of the 1101 carburetor. If the opening is to be bored out, the machinist would have to cut a bit into those channels. I'm going to bring it down there in the morning (where my cylinder head is being rebuilt) to see what he says, but thought I'd ask you guys first. Thanks.
 
Howdy Back:

The original orientation adapter for my '69 1101 has a vacuum port, which I plugged when I used it. As I mentioned before, the slots of either side of the base of the 1101 were sealed off from the orientation adapter.

If you have your adapter bored out to 1.75" I'll be interested as to what it reveals. If boring it exposes internal channels, I'd fill them with liquid metal to seal them off and give it a try.

Where do the channels go in your adapter?

Keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
Thanks for reply David. So I brought the carburetor spacer plate to the machinist this morning. At first he said it was no problem to just bore it open to 1.75, but then he quickly realized that the flange at the bottom of the carburetor is slightly larger than the flange on the spacer plate. He said it wouldn't make a tight seal and would probably lead to a vacuum leak. He told me he can just fabricate a plate of the correct size for me. However, he wouldn't be able to include the connections for the radiator hoses that are on the original plate. So I would just need to get one longer stretch of radiator hose and bypass the carb plate with it. I believe that was a suggestion of yours in your handbook as a way to improve performance. So, in the mean time, I'm going to be thouroughly cleaning and rebuilding the carb. When you were rebuilding your 1101, do you remember there only being one check ball found in the same hole as the check weight? It was under the check weight. No other holes had any check balls. In fact, the gasket that was used covered up the other openings. I remembered more check balls when I rebuilt the 1100 a while back. As always, thanks for the info.
 
Howdy Back:

Good on your machinist. Making a solid adapter is perfect. and eliminating the water heater function won't hurt anything. I don't recall your location or if you will be doing any winter driving with this carb. If carb heat becomes necessary there are several better ways to do it.

On the check balls, I don't remember. Sorry. That was back in the 1990s. I did have the instructions from the rebuild kit and I do recall using Vaseline to keep the balls and weights from falling out during assembly. Take a close look/read of the rebuild instruction sheet.

Hope that helps.

Adios, David
 
I don't know about the 1101, but iirc, my 1100 had 3 check balls, one had the weight over it. Mine was missing a ball at either the pump or the SCV(forget which) and had 2 balls in place of the weight and ball and ran crappy. I made a new weight and put the balls where they belonged and it ran great by comparison. I don't think mine had a ball where the dashpot is b/c mine didn't have a dashpot. The 3rd ball goes at the SCV, your 1101 may not need that one. As far as I know, if the carb has a dashpot, it will have 4 balls and a weight, if not, it will have 3 and a weight unless it doesn't have a SCV. I would expect your 1101 to have at least 2 balls and a weight. 1 pump intake check ball, 1 pump discharge check ball with weight. Maybe 1 dashpot check ball, and being an 1101 probably not the SCV check ball. Not sure about the gasket situation.

Good luck.

[bbvideo=560,315]https://youtu.be/uiOG__H2BM8[/bbvideo]
 
There is a tech article i put on deleting the SCV & then you can get rid of the loadamatic.
 
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