New cylinder head

cmm24601

Well-known member
Just purchased a 1970 cylinder head to replace the head on my 1969 250.

I'll take it to a machine shop for a valve job, but is there a good tutorial on installing it?
 
If it still has 62cc chambers you're going to want to have it milled .025" or so to keep the compression @ 9:1 with a new thicker composite gasket. It's good to get a couple of bolts from the hardware store or old head bolts and cut the heads off of them to use as guides when putting the head back on the new gasket. Other than that and having the deck good and clean, there's just torque sequence from the center out in a circle with 3 progressive intervals to the final torque.

ci/SmallSixSpecs.html#TorqueSpecs
 
Howdy:

FYI- The '69 and '70 heads are virtually the same casting. what's the point of this change?

Adios, David
 
My current head is pretty beat up. Crack on the intake manifold, threads broken at the ends where the exhaust manifold mounts. And i have a persistent vacuum leak. I found this 70 head for a decent price and it's in better shape.
 
When using guide pins,use the passenger front and rear bolt holes. The holes in the head and gasket are made smaller at those locations for that alignment purpose.
 
Do not forget to use sealer on the front passenger bolt , it is open to the water jacket...If using studs make sure you clear the water pump impeller at that location.
 
X2 on the thread sealer for the front bolt. X2 on getting the head milled to compensate for the thicker head gasket. Make sure that when you add coolant back to the system that you get all of the air out. I had to end up getting help from the forum to finally get the last of the air to purge. The trick was to to get the nose of the car elevated when refilling the system.

Good Luck

Kevin
 
"...re-establish the oil transfer slot..." there's an oil passage to examine after milling too (depending on amount removed)...
Y not get all the install tips & a lot more from the "Handbook" (see Matt at vintage inlines dot com - aprox $25) and while waiting for delivery see our "Tech Archive" (for free - above by clicking on it)? Can't go wrong w/these sources. If U do...
we're all ways here with a guiding hand!
 
Man, you guys got it down pat. Best of luck on the swap.
 
Howdy Back cmm and all:

Ahh, I get it now. FYI the stock head gasket is .025" thick. The new composite gasket that you will get in a valve job gasket set is approximately .050". To maintain stock compression ratio, you will need to have the head milled .025".If you would like some very inexpensive torque you might want to consider milling the head even more; say .050" for an increase of a half a point more CR. I say inexpensive because the milling will cost just a bit more, you will need to re-establish the oil transfer slot and you may need washers on the head bolts to keep them from bottoming out.

Questions? Keep us posted.

Adios, David
 
chad":wfba65ww said:
there's an oil passage to examine after milling too...

"...re-establish the oil transfer slot…"
like he said!

Ck out da Handbook
8^ )
 
I'm glad you guys remembered the goop on the front bolt in the water jacket, very important! I knew I was forgetting something

Op, while you have the head off you should measure the deck clearance on the #1 and #6 cylinders and cc the new head and then you can dial in the compression to 9:1-9:3. It's worth the effort.
 
Fi-----nally got my cylinder head back from the machine shop. looks good though.

I've ordered the performance handbook from vintageinlines.com

Does this engine have hydraulic lifters? How do I make sure the vales are in the right place?
 
These guys are good.
Did you do a 3 angle valve job or back cutting? Port and polish?
What are you using for an ignition system?
 
Your engine has hydraulic lifters. You'll be fine with the old valve train b/c you're just doing the head, and if it was cut .025 you're just cmpensating for the old steel .025" head gasket for the new .050" composite felpro gasket. Did you take any measurements?
 
bmbm40":i2r5fmtu said:
These guys are good.
Did you do a 3 angle valve job or back cutting? Port and polish?
What are you using for an ignition system?
Yes on valve job but negatory on the polish.
I would have the valve pockets ported out though.
And DS2 for me on the sparks.

oops responded to the wrong post :oops:
I see the head is done.
 
The new head is on! Looks great. Soooo clean. Sooooo not cracked anywhere. :D :D

Just to confirm... No adjustments necessary? This thing just bolts on? I'm going to coat the rockers and rods in some oil, put on some oil, fill the fluids and fire it up?
 
Hi, yes, it sounds like you are getting there. You should have thread sealant on the front right head bolt because it goes into the water jacket. I'm guessing you never took the lifters out. We used to put a dab of white lube on the valve stems and push rods because it won't go away if the engine sits before starting. I don't put in antifreeze, just water, so if water starts leaking I don't worry about that, until I know it's good. Just don't let it freeze this time of year. If you didn't remove the distributor the timing should be good. It will take some time for gas to get up to the carb, and after that you'll be on your way. Good luck
 
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