Sourcing Machine Shop in Central PA

Harlon

Well-known member
I know there is a separate page for part of this, but there doesn't seem to be much action on that page. I figured this is the page where people talk about their projects and pose questions so here goes.

Sometime this fall I'm going to pull the head off my son's 78 200 and send it in for machining. I'm wondering if anyone on this page lives in the Central PA region and knows of a reputable machine shop. Likewise one that is equipped and willing to do the direct mount 2V conversion and installation of the exhaust splitter. The couple of local shops I've talked too, won't do anything past honing the mating surfaces and standard 3 angle valve job. No back cutting, and they won't touch porting or port matching(even if I can afford it).

My plan would be to get everything done to the head at once. I'm sure I'm missing something, but 3-angle valve job, back cut valves, whatever needs done to install 302 springs, honing mating surface to yield low 9s for CR. Doing the 2V direct mount conversion, plus whatever else I've missed.

I haven't quite gotten to the point of picking specific parts to match my goals, but I'm looking for a stout streetable engine with lots of torque throughout the curve. The car will spend most, if not all, of its time doing around town driving. Most days never going over 45. More often 25-35. Occasionally the push to 65 on a back road.

Along with the head work and carb upgrade, the engine will get a set of dual out headers, a hotter ignition, plugs and wires. As the plan is not to pull the engine at this time we will likely add increased ratio rockers instead of upgrading the cam. Unless the bottom end is visibly trashed the plan is not to rebuild the short block at this time.

Finally to the question(s):

1.) Can anyone recommend a shop remotely close to Harrisburg Pa that fits the bill.

2.) On that auction site, there is an engine builder selling 200 late model cylinder heads machined pretty close to what I'm looking for with the 2V conversion, valve job, springs, etc,..., no rocker assemblies. He wants between 1600 and 1800 for his heads. I'm new to engine rebuilding. Is this a reasonable price for what you get or would rebuilding my head be significantly cheaper?

Thanks,
 
Howdy Harlon:

No help on finding reasonably priced and helpful machine shop. The ebay prices seemed high for SE Idaho.

On your plan, Just shim the stock springs .030" for now and then upgrade to match when you choose your cam.

What is/will be the rear end ratio on this car? What trans?

Keep the info coming.

Adios, David
 
Trans is a C4, stock in the car as far as I can tell. 66 mustang.
Not sure on the rear gear. My guess is whatever came stock with an auto trans in these.

Eventually we'd like to swap in an 8-inch rear. 5 lug discs all around if we can afford it.

Not sure about trans. With all the stop and go, slowish, small town driving and hills we'll probably stick with the C4 or some other auto trans. Overdrive would be nice but not sure if it would ever make it to that gear.

I'm nursing a lower back discectomy, thus sticking to topside upgrades this winter. If I find a shop to do the head work they can do all the real work and I can talk my son through the other topside work. We can put on the headers and have a local shop runs he exhaust.
 
Pete Teasdale in Lebanon is where I take all my work. He rebuilt my 200 and machined the head for the 2 barrel conversion. here is a pic of where he cnc milled the intake. He is very reasonable priced and will do whatever you want to if its possible. Actually I live about 10 minutes away from his shop if you want to check out his work firsthand.

20150803_164437.jpg
 
sixty5mustang":3qyuhxs8 said:
Pete Teasdale in Lebanon is where I take all my work. He rebuilt my 200 and machined the head for the 2 barrel conversion. here is a pic of where he cnc milled the intake. He is very reasonable priced and will do whatever you want to if its possible.

Thanks, that will work great. I'm in Carlisle, which isn't "close," but my wife or I drive by Jonestown on the way to Myerstown for work every 3-6 weeks. If something doesn't materialize on my side of the river Pete's is definitely doable.

As I said, I'm new to this part of working on cars. I can price out parts for the rebuild; springs, rockers, valves, new carb, etc,.., but I don't have a clue what the actual machining will cost. Any general thoughts on how much I should budget for machining; honing, valve job, back cutting, 2V conversion?

In the same bent, once the actual machining is done, is final assembly of the valve train something my son and I can do ourselves, or does that need to be done by the shop to ensure everything fits properly and more tweaking doesn't need to be done.

Thanks,
Harlon
 
CZLN6":1v9l976d said:
Howdy Harlon:

On your plan, Just shim the stock springs .030" for now and then upgrade to match when you choose your cam.

Adios, David

David,
Will shimming the springs allow me to use the existing pushrods? If I upgrade/switch to the 1.6:1 ratio rockers will that still work or will I need to swap pushrods regardless of shimming?
 
He is right in Jonestown on 72 just couple miles south of 81. I cant recommend him enough. If you have any questions let me know.
I also have a front disc brake conversion kit of unknown manufacture that you can have if you need. I was told is was SSBC and it wasn't. I found this out after I ordered replacement rotors and parts. Will take some research to figure it out but I already got the SSBC kit.
 
Harlon":2v5pfxug said:
sixty5mustang":2v5pfxug said:
Pete Teasdale in Lebanon is where I take all my work. He rebuilt my 200 and machined the head for the 2 barrel conversion. here is a pic of where he cnc milled the intake. He is very reasonable priced and will do whatever you want to if its possible.

Thanks, that will work great. I'm in Carlisle, which isn't "close," but my wife or I drive by Jonestown on the way to Myerstown for work every 3-6 weeks. If something doesn't materialize on my side of the river Pete's is definitely doable.

As I said, I'm new to this part of working on cars. I can price out parts for the rebuild; springs, rockers, valves, new carb, etc,.., but I don't have a clue what the actual machining will cost. Any general thoughts on how much I should budget for machining; honing, valve job, back cutting, 2V conversion?

In the same bent, once the actual machining is done, is final assembly of the valve train something my son and I can do ourselves, or does that need to be done by the shop to ensure everything fits properly and more tweaking doesn't need to be done.

Thanks,
Harlon

I spent about 2k for the complete rebuild and balance. I wouldn't see why you couldn't reassemble it yourself. Probably around 4 to 500 for the head work would be my guess.
 
Howdy BaCK HARLON:

Now need to change anything with .030" shims under the valve springs.

If you go to 1.6:1 high lift adjustable rockers you will need ball and cup pushrods. Your stock rocker you will have ball ends on both ends.

Check the door tag to determine gear ratio.

Adios, David
 
sixty5mustang":gdtmem83 said:
I spent about 2k for the complete rebuild and balance. I wouldn't see why you couldn't reassemble it yourself. Probably around 4 to 500 for the head work would be my guess.

Thanks, I pmd with a couple questions on your build?

What did you have done beyond a typical boring, honing, valve job? Just the 2V and honing to improve CR? Anything else?

Are you happy with the performance increase your changes achieved?

Is there anything you wish you had done that you didn't?

Is there anything you think was unnecessary?

What carb did you go with?

Thanks Much,
Harlon
 
Dave, and Forum,
Should a head only rebuild like I'm proposing include replacing the lifters?
Thanks,
 
Harlon":2co857zx said:
sixty5mustang":2co857zx said:
I can price out parts for the rebuild; springs, rockers, valves, new carb, etc,..,
In the same bent, once the actual machining is done, is final assembly of the valve train something my son and I can do ourselves, or does that need to be done by the shop...
My shop ordered all the parts, placed the springs, valves, etc in the head after machining but he machined the head and block. Was willing to do all the machining ( al la Handbook) tho. I did the rest of assembly, degreed the cam etc. My cost was $1800 (long blk prts & machining). Only 2 or 3 volume/reliable shops around here for the 2 county area (w/in a 45 min circle - ie hr'n 1/2 across).

Keep talkin, luv those Alleghenies!
 
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