Carb upgrade - PCV hookup

charliecurrie

Well-known member
66 200 - C4 - 1100 carb. Upgrading to Weber 32/36 and Duraspark II. After removing the 1100 and base plate with vacuum barb for PCV and replacing with 32/36 and base plate without a vacuum barb for PCV, where do I hookup the PCV hose? Can I replace the PVC with a breather - the ones that look like mini air cleaners?

So far, I've been told that I can hook it up to the same port that the C4 uses for the shift modulator. I've also been told that that is not a good idea. Would like to hear from those who have actually done this swap where the trans is an automatic and not a stick.

Thanks

My first post.
 
You need to drill & tap the adapter below the carb. so you induce PCV air in a central part of the log.
A Holley has a port for the PCV on the base plate.
That is the best way to hook up the PCV.
 
You can't get rid of the PCV, bad things will happen, mainly gunk in the oil and engine. The vented/filtered oil fill cap is your breather. If you can't get it in the base, 1/8 npt port is what you need with an 1/8" mpt x 3/8" barb fitting, you can tie it into the port below the carb flange on the log. That's a 1/4" pipe thread.
 
The port in the log is the one being used by the C4 shift modulator. The jury is still out on whether or not you can tee both systems together there.

What would the drill size be for an 1/8 npt fitting?
 
For tapping an 1/8 inch NPT you would use a "Q" size drill which is (.332). Good luck :nod:
 
Drilling and tapping the spacer is not going to be possible. The Redline spacer is only a 1/4 inch thick and the bottom side is concaved, so not even that thick all the way across. The adapter is from Vintage Inlines and consists of two pieces - the bolt on adapter and an insert - and I'm not about to drill through both of those.

So the only solution I see - other than replacing the PCV valve with an additional breather - is to tee into the port for the C4 shift modulator.

Would like to hear from someone who has actually made the upgrade and is running an automatic transmission.

Thanks
 
You can tie it into the log and tee the C4 line into it or you could drill and tap the log for 1/8" npt. Or, if you have room you could add another spacer. I'd try and get the C4 line in as close to the manifold as possible if you tee b/c you are loosing vacuum on the PCV line I'd think.
 
The current location of the C4 modulator connection couldn't get any closer to the log without climbing inside. Removing the current elbow and adding a nipple and a tee would move it out slightly. The nipple would be connected to the leg of the tee and the modulator and PCV connections would be at the arms facing each other. The vacuum would be pulling from each arm towards the leg and into the log.

I've seen photos of the PCV hose being hooked up to the hose barb at the bottom of the standard Weber 2bbl air filter. So the flow would be from the top of the carb and down the venturi. Would this work? I believe the barb is actually for the oil filler/ breather cap with a barb - which mine doesn't have.

Also, Fairmont PCV valves have a two barb connector on top of them for CA automatic trans cars. Don't know exactly how that works. Appears that the vacuum line from the manifold connects to the lower larger barb and the modulator connects to the upper smaller line. Just my guess.

Would have to remove the head to drill and tap it - not ready for that. In the future, sure.

Thanks
 
I've seen OEM taps/bungs/caps/lines into
the base plate
low on a carb
right in the log below all these locations
No expert here but isn't anywhere below the throttle plate sufficient?

I'd like a fully closed system & will put the other VC line into the A/C housing - closed 100%~
if I can!
:nod:
 
charliecurrie":19tsf6eh said:
I've seen photos of the PCV hose being hooked up to the hose barb at the bottom of the standard Weber 2bbl air filter.... I believe the barb is actually for the oil filler/ breather cap with a barb - which mine doesn't have.

I believe you're correct, that is for the oil fill cap with the barb. I'm not sure you're going to get the proper suction, if at all, hooked to the air cleaner. I think the 2 nipple PCVs are for cars with charcoal vapor recovery tanks. I think that's the connection from the purge valve back into the engine manifold via the PCV hose. I'm actually going to retrofit one of those setups into my van and was going to use one of those PCV valves to simplify the plumbing.
 
PCV (usually back of VC) to the base of carb.
Oil fill cap (often w/hose to AC) from the front...no?

I like this as it allows easy access for adding 'maintenance oil'.
Also like the alu VC but am concerned bout the 'no baffle'.
Bill shows a good work around but I'd prefer a JB Weld baffle in there...

Lastly I'm thinkin of the ele choke (even in warm climes) rather than the
'choke stove' (correct name 4 da lill tube that brings up da hot air frm exhaust?).
(y)
 
You might be able to avoid having to pull the head to drill and tap (space permitting) by pulling the carb and pressurizing the intake with compressed air - and putting grease on the tap. That way, when you remove the tap, any shavings that do not stick to the grease could be blown out the hole by the air pressurizing the intake manifold.

It seems logical enough, but YMMV - because I just sort of made that idea up.
 
I did the same on my 65 Ranchero 200 but I have a 3 spd so I hooked it up where the trans vacuum line would've gone. I would think you can hook up the PCV to that weird little thing on the bottom of the air cleaner. That may work b/c it's still getting sucked but it's not as strong so it may not work.

Or buy a weber spacer for another car with the hose barb made into it and bolt it on top of the adapter. I thought about that to run water through and use for when I get power brakes.

Ryan
 
Another possible thing is to mill your own adapter but for the 1bbl part and tap that and put a hose barb on that, just make sure it's short enough so you can fit the weber and all that on. This way you don't need to modify anything or do anything costly other than fab your own part.
 
StarDiero75":hwns8jw4 said:
I did the same on my 65 Ranchero 200 but I have a 3 spd so I hooked it up where the trans vacuum line would've gone. I would think you can hook up the PCV to that weird little thing on the bottom of the air cleaner. That may work b/c it's still getting sucked but it's not as strong so it may not work.

Or buy a weber spacer for another car with the hose barb made into it and bolt it on top of the adapter. I thought about that to run water through and use for when I get power brakes.

Ryan

:shock: A PCV (if we are talking about the valve and hose part) then it isn't going to work at all being hooked up to the air cleaner period! A PCV needs to be connected to the engines manafold Vaccum to work. The best PCV system is the closed type were the PCV's valve location (for a inline six) is at one end of the valve cover and with the oil breather cap at the opposite end. This oil caps breather hose is then connected to that fitting on the base of the air cleaner so it can draw fresh air into the crankcase. Good luck :nod:
 
My suggestion is to yse the Fox body 3.3 system, seen here in three version, each with the very common (non standard) Carter YFA 1-bbl carb off an F150 truck.

On later carbs (post 1970, and certainly after 1973), they had a delicately balanced Purge CV ( Vapor Canister Purge Valve) which stole the BV, bowl vent vapors, vented the stuff to an activated carbon canister. There were Delay Check Valves to sort out reducing surges. Any problem with the grommet or PCV, and the carb would surge like a B -tard.

2594472_15_full.jpg



DSCI0004fairmonteng.jpg


Element 1: Lower Line to under the carb. EV89 PCV valve on the Fox body rocker cover puts the oil filler at the back.

The PCV valve hookes to a 3/8" grommet, and the line goes under the carb on an adaptor like this


1981200exhaust01_original.jpg



The lower manifold BSP bolt (also used for the power brake booster) can be used as a last resort if its head is 1960-1979. The later 80-83 heads are like the ones above. I'd personally use the stock adaptor.

Element 2: Upper line from a sealed oil filler cap


This goes to the air cleaner with a felt junction

A better view

185_5202-jpg.3312


If you grab the 1976 onwards racker covers, they are baffelled so you don't get oil-throughs.

IMG_8878pcvvalvebaffleAdjustablerockerdings.jpg


a 66 will run and take the later fittings very easily. Its simple, and will do the job.

The earlier diagrams for PCV routing, see Stormin'Norman's Electrical and Vacuum Trouble Shooting (EVTM) and Vhecile Emission Control Information (VECI) diagrams for Clean Air Act Fords from 1965 to 1968.

Stormin' Norman":2zmke6ob said:
[Alldata's VECI labels only go back to 1982, AutoZone's for the 1978-1979 Fairmont use a lot of 2.3 - 4 banger diagrams.

BUT this document gives all the basic diagrams and the best Non-Geek Speak explanation of every emissions system device known UP TO 1968.

PLUS, it gives complete and clear VACUUM Issues Diagnosis for all the I6 and V8 engines, both for Manual and Automatic transmissions from the 170 CID and up to the 300 CID sixes and all the SBF and BBF V8s.

Its kinda like that book, "Everything You Wanted To Know About He-ing and She-ing", only the pictures are in black in white!

http://www.mustangtek.com/Library6/Vol- ... -5000.html

The basic VECI Diagrams start at page 31 but the details on them start on page 29.

And while you're there, check out the other menus as well as all the Ford TECH and Sales books. Most are in PDF format.

http://www.mustangtek.com/LibraryFordTech.html

http://www.mustangtek.com/index.html

I found the site looking for VECI diagrams using the part number on an old label.
 
Hand made adaptor for 1963 head found on my 1966 Falcon engine.









On your car, the later 4.9/300 F150 air cleaner fits under the hood with a YFA on top of a 200,

and the whole 300 Ford truck PCV system



The air cleaner on a 300 F150 truck
ford-300-10.jpg
 
Okay, going back a step.

I assume you are using Matt Cox's Small LogWeber 1V-2V Adaptor SKU: FSP-200-WCA-S, yeah?

https://www.vintageinlines.com/product- ... -small-log

Under your 32/36 carb, you need an extra 1-/2" adaptor like this.

d073cf270d9aa712e59ddb639ca31a04.jpg


As I did with my lower 1/2" adaptor,

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc5 ... G_7148.jpg


drill a hole, and interferance fit a stock PCV alloy or tin pipe with barb in to it.

It goes under the primary barrel.

On top, you use
#92 by MechRick » Sat Oct 31, 2015
MechRick":24m6f4ax said:
More details...

Bought a nifty Redline adapter that allows a typical 5 1/8" round air cleaner.

adapter.jpg

file.php




a proper Mustang Geezer style pressed Aluminum 15" Fox body 3.8 V6 or 5.0 2BBL GT Mustang or 5.0 RS Capri orThunderbird 2-bbl 4.2, 5.0 or 3.8/5.0 CFi 2-bbl closed air cleaner housing works best.

it doesn't look like much in a stock Tbird or XR7 Cougar, and you don't need the snorkles they ran, but as a housing, its exceptionally good.

391171-1000-0.jpg


mustang_geezer_15inch_air_cleaner_001.jpg


Zee_ss_let_a_liter_last_a_little_longer.jpg


not the open Holley or Weber after market ones.

Everything you need for proper PCV operation is on the 1974 to 1986 15" 5.0(302)/5.8(351) and 3.8 liter air cleaners. The bigger 17" won't fit.

The common 15 inch 302 5.0 liter housing changed to the larger 17 inch diameter for 1983 when Ford switched to the 4 barrel carb in Mustang 5.0's and Capris, but the little 3.8's and Thunderbird's and XR7's still used it in the CFi style Fuel Injection cars right up till 1986 or so. It common if you know what your looking for. 17" air cleaners are found on the 1979-1989 4-bbl 429/460 and 5.8 F150/250/350 trucks
 
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