Ford 170 six questions and thoughts

Thanks everyone. I know this is kinda off topic but my moms house is on property and it's about a mile or mild dirt roads. I know the falcon has 5.7" ground clearance but is that to the frame supports(the big steel bars under the car) or to the sheet metal. basically what I mean is how do these do on dirt trails. I'm not talking hard core off road just about a mile of mild rough rucks and bumps. Will it handle it or am I gonna be destroying it and bottoming out on everything. Everyone else had trucks so we've never had to use a sedan on the road
Thanks
 
:unsure: I would think that ground clearance would be measured from the lowest point of the
center section of the rear end to the ground.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
Im embarassed to admit that my comet has seen a decent amount of gravel roads when i was younger :oops: washboards and uneven roads are the norm here in nebraska and i never had any problems really it all depends on how fast your going a 3 inch tall speed bump doesnt seem like much when your only going 5 mph but feels like a mountain when doing 50 mph, so it shouldnt be an issue as long as your going slow
 
round here the biggest probs R Spring (Mud Season)...
ck out yer buddie's truck wid da lowest clearence, measure'n compair 2 yours...
 
So for a 170 six I'm probably just going to overhaul it because I got to take the engine out anyways so I can do some working and rust work. So what do you recommend besides the basics like bearings and rings, plugs, seals, spark plugs, does the harmonic balancer always need to be replaced if mine even has one I'll be honest it's been awhile since I've looked I don't know if these engines do. Thanks for all your help it is very important to me. Also ive never really heard of overheating being a problem in these but for the school year and early summer I live in Phoenix and this year we got +110° so beside being absolutely miserable without ac should I worry about my engine overheating in traffic thanks. Also is there any way to get an account system
 
Hello-
Yes, the harmonic balancer should B checked. Look at he frnt of engine, end of crankshaft, biggest 'pulley', probably 2 shive (grooves for belts). That 1 is actually metal/rubber bonded together. Often after many yrs the rubber becomes separated from the metal & needs close inspection/replacement.

Do U have the excellent publication: the "Handbook"? This is a resource that can rapidly get U up to speed on the ins/outs of these engines. It's abt $20 from Matt at vintage inlines dot com. While waiting for delivery I'd recommend clicking on the above "Tech Archive" (screwdriver/wrench icon). These 2 sources can take you far in answering your Qs, I hadda read'em up to even ask the right Qs!

Do U have an engine stand or R handy & can make 1? What kinda tools'n space do you have? Desire to wrk-on it? Perservearence level? How quickly do U need the vehicle into driving condition? Budget? Actual end use? Any concerns abt which octane (price) gas? Read'em up, stick around!
 
HowdyAgain:

I would respectfully suggest that you get the engine running and assess it prior to committing to pulling it for an overhaul. Star gave an excellent list of what it will take and cost. Most likely those are expenses you will encounter even with an overhaul. Once you get it running you may find a perfectly good running engine.

Also, You'll find that there is plenty of room to work around in the engine bay even with the engine still in place.

Either way, I'd suggest that you get a Service Manual for your car. They run about $50.

On the clearance, take a little trip under your car looking at any vulnerable pieces hanging down- such as electrical wires, gas line, brake lines and exhaust pipe. Tuck them up and secure them. The differential will be the lowest point but it is quite durable. Still, slow and easy over the rough stuff is the best idea.

Adios, David
 
"...differential will be the lowest point …"
not the frnt steer linkage?
 
Howdy Chad:

Possibly, but not probably. In general,the closer things are to the wheels/tires the less likely to bottom out. That makes the differential the likely low spot. That is not to say other item on the underside aren't vulnerable. Slow and careful is the key.

Adios, David
 
Thanks, that helps.
'S better that way too, achunk's alot tougher than a tie rod or certainly a pan.
(y)
 
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