Exhaust for a modified i6 200

Royals65i6

Active member
I currently have a 1980 cylinder head being modified for a 2v carb., oversized valves, 1.6 rockers, and will be putting a performance cam in later. I plan on using the Vintage Inlines 2" dual exhaust header. Should I stick with 2" all the way to the tail pipes, or increase size? Are there other options for i6 dual exhaust pipes besides what is on Vintage Inlines? Thanks for the advice.
 
I'm doing pretty much the same things with my build. Except my thought was going to be should I *decrease* the size of rest of the exhaust. We'll both have the 2 inch dual headers.

Performance wise, you don't need more than the 2 inches you have unless you have more horsepower than you've let on. I found this chart for sizing.
Screenshot_2016-12-23-12-19-06~01.png
It's my understanding that the bigger you go the louder and deeper it will be as there is more inside diameter for the sound to resonate.

I want my car to sound more like a Jag than a small block V8 when I'm done so I'm thinking 1.75.
 
"...Are there other options for i6 dual exhaust pipes besides what is on Vintage Inlines? ..."
not at that price or quality
 
I went to put on my new speed daddy exhaust manifold today and noticed that there is a small pipe running from the autolite carb to the stock manifold. There is no place for this to go on the new manifold. Any suggestions? Also, will I need to adjust the throttle linkage with the new manifold, and if yes, how?IMG_20180203_150036985.jpg
 
Royals65i6":67x08bos said:
Well, I guess that 2" Vintage Inlines dual exhaust will be the way to go for me. Thanks for the advice.
Great, I thought they might B out right now. Congrats....

SD's seem to B the same thing according to our members feedback here.

The sm alu tube w/asbestos covering can be stretched dwn & placed in as much contact as possible w/header pipe (2 waft hot air up frm exh. to coil inside choke 2 move 'butterfly')
/OR/
U can buy a new assembly (tube'n end-nut) @ local big box prts store & replace (doing same: wrape around header pipe). Or go w/ele choke to avoid dirt entry w/air. Ask me if wanting instruction on that...alill more complicated.

I don't have 'rod linkage" so am not sure if you'll have interference w/urown. Just hafta wait'n C. May B the new exhaust'll have some nut(s) U can hang yer return spring from, or some other benefits you've yet to come across rather than problems...

Lastly, will U get/use the 'port divider' tacked into 'the 3 / 4 siamese exh. port' when swapin in the 'tubes' ?
Keep talkin
 
Howdy Back Royal and all:

Or you could consider replacing the choke on your Autolite with an electric choke, or manual choke. Either is cleaner and not much more expensive jury rigging a hot air source for the choke. Just my two cents, for what it's worth.

Adios, David
 
I don't want to put much into the carb because I hope to be switching it out for a larger Holley by this summer. So, whatever is the easiest way to go would be ideal. What is a tube'n end-nut?

I hadn't planned on a pot divider because I have read mostly mix reviews with little to gain.
 
You can simply replace the choke tube with a piece of bent brake line and clamp it to a header pipe if you want to retain original 1100 carb. It just passes thru the OEM manifold for 'choke/heat riser" effect anyway. Unless you plan on frigid weather use, you could skip it entirely and just pump the accel pedal a few times when starting...


have fun
 
Get a choke housing from a 80 era 2100 carb which is electric & runs off the stator terminal of the alternator which is 9 volts.
Or get a Holley thermostat housing which uses 12 volts.
You can use the screw on cap that has a wire screen as a filter. Do not block the air supply or else you will burn out the electric part in the housing.
 
the Holley has the black bakelite coil caps w/a wire screen?
never seen a screened 1~
Thnx, Bill
 
Ok, so now I am dealing with the throttle attachment to the carb. As you can see in the picture it is connected by a rod. Do I need to replace this with a Lokar throttle cable? Any instructions on how to accomplish this task?
Thanks
 
I'd just heat/bent the rod.
I can't C what ya got (not shown in pic as a shadow's there). Put on the headers & look & C...
If needing a bend just use a lill propane torch.
 
Any suggestions on how to get the two bolts on the bottom left (in the pic it would be closest to the cab)part of the exhaust header to screw in? I have tried every angle I can think of with no luck. IMG_20180211_153512869.jpg
 
Take out the other bolts and do those first, make the last bolts the easy to get to ones and apply some force. May have to open up some holes. Use header bolts they have a smaller head for the wrench.
 
Do you mean that the starter is in the way? when you said cab I thought it was a alignment issue...Some times it helps to take the starter out....A mini starter makes the job a lot easier and the 10 lbs saving is nice, RobbMc should have one that fits.
 
Are you planning on the Arvinode or the Imposter mufflers? I'm looking at the VI dual exhaust upgrade this year and looking for some input on someone who's purchased either.

Cheers,
M
 
Yes, the starter makes it a bit tight to get my fingers in there. I think I will undo everything and start with those bolts first as mentioned. I ordered the Arvinode over a week ago from VI and hope that it will arrive soon, but have not received a response to my emails about shipping schedule. Once I get it and have installed I'll let you know what I think.
 
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