Engine Mounts Torque

Howdy guys

I got my 65 Ranch 200, and im wondering what the motor mounts should be tightened to? It doesnt say in my 65 Shop Manual and it bothers me.

Anybody know?

Thanks,
Ryan

StarDiero75":304s1d4f said:

Howdy guys

I got my 65 Ranch 200, and im wondering what the motor mounts should be tightened to? It doesnt say in my 65 Shop Manual and it bothers me.

Anybody know?

Thanks,
Ryan

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it is not a precision gasket surface, so just use a general bolt torque chart, (or just tighten them tight, and not worry about it)

Check them for staying tight, some driving styles can cause loosening of the bolts!

Thanks guys. I was hoping there was a numerical answer but if there isnt oh well. I have them tight now, i just wondered if there was a certain torque. My dads 390 in his 69 F-250 doesnt vibrate as much, nor feel the engine shut off/startup so i was thinking the motor mounts werent tight enough. Maybe the tranny mount ia doing this.

I'd assume it should B smoother than his esp w/that internally balanced i6.
Could it B more about another component or slit in rubber isolator?

Is there a sound w/it?
:

StarDiero75":37ueyvny said:

Thanks guys. I was hoping there was a numerical answer but if there isnt oh well. I have them tight now, i just wondered if there was a certain torque. My dads 390 in his 69 F-250 doesnt vibrate as much, nor feel the engine shut off/startup so i was thinking the motor mounts werent tight enough. Maybe the tranny mount ia doing this.

Click to expand...

There actually is a numerical torque value for every bolt besides those special bolt uses such as engine fasteners, you can check the bolt torque chart below is a link. And if it's not running as smooth there maybe some other reasons other than the motor mounts but X2 maybe it's time for a new set of mounts and you should always replace the trans mount along with the engine mounts too! How is the tune of the engine? Have you did a compression test to see if all the cyclinder are close to the same compression i.e. Within 10%? Good luck

General Bolt Torques

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-info ... orque.aspx

chad":2nzri7w7 said:

I'd assume it should B smoother than his esp w/that internally balanced i6.
Could it B more about another component or slit in rubber isolator?

Is there a sound w/it?
:

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I would think so too. Once its running its fine but when i accelerate i get this weird vibrating thing that goes throughout thw whole car at 25 to 30, and when downshifting to 2nd, its from 40 to 25ish. Sometimes its as smooth as ever, sometimes its horrible. But the engine runs very smoothly and pulls well so i dont know

bubba22349":1kwago17 said:

StarDiero75":1kwago17 said:

Thanks guys. I was hoping there was a numerical answer but if there isnt oh well. I have them tight now, i just wondered if there was a certain torque. My dads 390 in his 69 F-250 doesnt vibrate as much, nor feel the engine shut off/startup so i was thinking the motor mounts werent tight enough. Maybe the tranny mount ia doing this.

Click to expand...

There actually is a numerical torque value for every bolt besides those special bolt uses such as engine fasteners, you can check the bolt torque chart below is a link. And if it's not running as smooth there maybe some other reasons other than the motor mounts but X2 maybe it's time for a new set of mounts and you should always replace the trans mount along with the engine mounts too! How is the tune of the engine? Have you did a compression test to see if all the cyclinder are close to the same compression i.e. Within 10%? Good luck

General Bolt Torques

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-info ... orque.aspx

Click to expand...

I havent checked the compressions since i cant get my gauge tightened into the spark plug hole.

The engine runs very smooth and pulls well, it does not feel tired. I had changed the oil pump and the walls looked fine.

It started running even smoother and started up even more lightning fast when i upped the timing to 12° from 10°. Im running a weber 32/36 which has made it run smoother. It runs very smoothly but i just feel the vibrations when i start going like from 25ish to 35 and when downshifting from 40 to 25ish. Sometimes its fine through that, sometimes its not. Ive had the wheels balanced several times to make sure.

The only thing i csn think of is that maybe its the trans. My pinion angle is dead on with the 8" rear. The throwout bearing rattles very loudly sometimes, it rattles though 95% of the time now, sometimes louder than others. It pops out of 2nd sometimes when downshifting (its a 3.03). The clutch and probably flywheel aint great. The car shudders when going into 1st from a stop like 70% of the time so im guessing worn clutch and warped flywheel.

What do yoy think?
Thanks

i wuz gunna mention "pinion angle" or other driveline glitch (drive shaft balance), seems that might B OK? U-joints?
But here U mention "clutch, FW" problems. That may be a fruitful area to search...

No vibes in neutral w/different engine revs?

chad":1fmpjbcx said:

i wuz gunna mention "pinion angle" or other driveline glitch (drive shaft balance), seems that might B OK? U-joints?
But here U mention "clutch, FW" problems. That may be a fruitful area to search...

No vibes in neutral w/different engine revs?

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The driveline was cut and balanced not too ling ago to accept the 8". Ive rotated it 180° and saw no difference.
Ujoints are new
Im betting its probably clutch issues. Possibly even tranny crap.

Not much, just normal i think, i havent paid too much attention to that. I do notice the car vibrate more when the clutch is engaged in neutral. It usually depends on how loud the throwout bearing is rattling.

",,,throwout bearing is rattling."
What did FW / flexplate look like?

Popping out of 2nd could be a sign of internal transmission problems.Worn syncronisers.Other problems would more than likely point to clutch/flywheel problems.Get it checked before the inside of the car becomes initmately accquainted with the clutch assy.
Good luck.have fun.Be safe.
Leo

Hi, besides what has been said, make sure your tranny is filled. My tranny has a drain plug. If you can drain your tranny you can check for bronze particles in the fluid. They are easy to see. Then fill it with new rear end fluid. It can't hurt. Good luck

Depending on what trans you have, check what type of fluid it takes. I believe the T-5 uses ATF??
What flywheel & clutch components do you have??

chad":38hby9ki said:

",,,throwout bearing is rattling."
What did FW / flexplate look like?

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I havent pulled jt yet. Someone put a 3.03 in it and i only realized that when i noticed the tranny had an adapter plate connecting it to the block

B RON CO":jkim2dtj said:

Hi, besides what has been said, make sure your tranny is filled. My tranny has a drain plug. If you can drain your tranny you can check for bronze particles in the fluid. They are easy to see. Then fill it with new rear end fluid. It can't hurt. Good luck

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I filled it during the summer at some point but it was still doing all that then. Ill check again b/c i think it leaks a little

wsa111":1g1v18rx said:

Depending on what trans you have, check what type of fluid it takes. I believe the T-5 uses ATF??
What flywheel & clutch components do you have??

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I have no idea. Its a 3.03 tranny and thats all i know. Someone else before me did the swap. Im planning on getting it rebuilt come spring break anyway so im hoping the clutch lasts 8 more weeks.

woodbutcher":24ie22fg said:

Popping out of 2nd could be a sign of internal transmission problems.Worn syncronisers.Other problems would more than likely point to clutch/flywheel problems.Get it checked before the inside of the car becomes initmately accquainted with the clutch assy.
Good luck.have fun.Be safe.
Leo

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Yeah i knkw that when it pops then its a bad synchro, it also clunks sometimes downshifting into 2nd. Im hopijng to get it rebuilt during apring break here in 8 weeks or so