64 1/2 to 68 engine swap

if you'd like Mike's Carb has a nice vid of him rebuilding one.
I also like his site to run carb stamping #s to ID parts to Y/M/M...

Howdy Back Tyro and All:

Good call on going with the RBS. As Bill said, the problem with flooding is probably a stuck neeedle valve or a float that's not working. On the 1100, the accelerator pump plunger deteriorates rapidly, even when not in use. Get a rebuild kit for the RBS and follow the instructions. Good luck and keep up posted on your progress.

Adios, David

I got the rebuilt carb on and she is running smooth! I haven't made any adjustments to the choke or anything yet but she's idling fine at around 700 rpm. My only problem is now I have to figure out how to make a throttle linkage because the rod from my auto lite 1100 obviously isn't going to work and the one off the engine was broken. Thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate it!

Howdy Back Tyro:

Good going on getting it to idle. Keep us posted on your progress. Good Luck.

Adios, David

Tyro77":ldr8ixha said:

...only problem is now I have to figure out how to make a throttle linkage because the rod from my auto lite 1100 obviously isn't going to work and the one off the engine was broken...

Click to expand...

Any ideas?
No? want some?
: :arrow:
:idea:

chad":1lwfjcim said:

Tyro77":1lwfjcim said:

...only problem is now I have to figure out how to make a throttle linkage because the rod from my auto lite 1100 obviously isn't going to work and the one off the engine was broken...

Click to expand...

Any ideas?
No? want some?
: :arrow:
:idea:

Click to expand...

I was thinking I could probably just get a universal throttle cable to work since I do actually have the bracket and just doing away with the rod that is on the car. Unless someone here has done it before and would have a better idea. I couldn't find anything on my searches though.

it seems we've discussed it many times.
Lokar is sure a way to go, so is oe if 'junk yards' are locally available (or on-line: car-part dot com by Y/M/M).
The difficuty will B @ the "cable peddle interface" I imagine.
Some use the OE "over-the-V/C-bracket" to hold the cable. Might look in our 'for sale' forum for it.

I found a cable operated pedal off of a 1973 mustang which from what I read will mount right up for 20 dollars and the cable from a 1973 cable driven inline for 30 dollars so hopefully the length and all will work out. Now I just have to figure out how to get the kickdown to operate without spending 80 dollars on the Lokar cable