Highway prep for 170

falcon_master

Well-known member
Well I got the 170 freed and it spins great now. Just took some more line in the cylinders and looks like after letting it sit for a few days it self healed. so now I'm looking into the cooling system cause it's going to be about 840 miles back to my place in az. Using an rpm calculator with my size tires and rear gear and trans gear I found to go 80 mph I'll be turning about 3,500 rpm and to go 70 I'll be doing 2,900. My question is that RPM to high for the engine to be going for that long. I don't want to break it. And my biggest concern is cooling system. So any tips would be appreciated thanks everyone
Jarod
 
Check all belts & hoses for dry rot.
Change oil. Drain coolant & replace with fresh.
Install new spark plugs & replace necessary other ignition componets.
Road test it locally to make sure water pump seal is not leaking.
Drain old fuel from gas tank & fill with fresh fuel.
Take it out & drive it. 2900 RPM's is ok.
 
With the typical 3.50:1 rear gears, you will really be spinning the 4 main bearing 170 . A slower pace will be more likely to ensure finishing your trip with the 170 still spinning. Without OD, I believe lower RPM range with speeds topping at @ 60-65 mph to be safest for the engine. Of course with modern interstate speeds, maintaining the lower speeds may be more dangerous for the driver. Sustained 3500 rpm may find your 170 lighting the OIL indicator followed by loud clattering and finally a dull bang ( at least that's my experience :roll: )

the cooling system with good V belt and hoses should be fine if it stays cool in local driving. I fit runs hot "around town", it will probably cause grief at sustained higher speeds.



have fun
 
Thanks for the info. According to my Vin I have a 3:10 rear gear and I can probably get a little bit bigger tires to try and lower the rpms. I just don't wanna get flattened by someone doing 80 now expecting me to do 60
 
these are tough little engines. back in the early 2000s i drove my 64 falcon 170/3spd/3.20 gear from tucson to shenandoah national park and back, with a stop over in pittsburg, pa. it had been sitting for a couple of years before that in pittsburg winters, and so it needed to have the rings broken loose from the cylinders. after more than 5000 miles the ring seal did start to go away, but i was still able to pull a small trailer loaded with about 600lbs of stuff, and a broken second gear, for more than 2500 miles. granted i will be either rebuilding or replacing the engine when i get back to working on that car. you should have no problems though for a mere 900 miles.
 
check the engine oil level regularly when interstating it -till you get a feel for how much its burning /using

and check oil level in the gearbox and axle at start - don't assume they are full when you start

gearbox will have a square head fill plug on side - squirt the gear oil in till it runs out the hole -.. helps if car on the flat.

axle has a square socket plug above the front input-uni (on left side) use 3/8: socket extension and undo , squirt oil in till just below fill line - can usually get your pinky/little finger in and see when it touched the oil level




the interesting bit will be pulling up from 80 on those 9" drums brakes allround
 
bring extra parts'n tools. Give it as many (hrs) miles in several 'shake down cruises" as possible. Better to break down around town that out on the road. Unless U got a 'follower' who can run for stuff in nother car to replace the "brokens". Even with this - don't forget, many of these R not on the rd now so many prts are not readily available, gotta order'n wait (for shipment).

The best bet (4 me anyway - but I'm 40 yrs past a trip like this - did it w/a slant6 - every perimeter state in the country) is a 25 foot straight job. Get a 30 ft Uhaul box truck, back it up to a hill &/or use the ramps, stuff the lill car inside. They're so narrow'n small it'll fit fine (just measure B4 ordering). Secure it by axels 2 floor inside, make sure there's a hill or other means of gettin it out when home & there U R - 1/4 of the country away w/a 'safe U' & a "safe, unbroken rig". Course there's no adventure there but my adventurin days R over...

BTW: that 170 chrysler (dodge dart wagon) had near 100K on it, took a yr & came back w/120K. Spent a wk'n 10 days in Tonapah, NV waitin for parts to come in on the Greyhound Bus...not sompin I'd recommend in this day'n age for any young gippers.

As Leo (sorta) sez: have Fun, B Safe AND Productive !!!
(y)
 
Howdy,

I used to run my 65 200 up at 2900 to 3200 for awhile doing 60 to 70 on the highway. Now that was at the longest for an hour and a half but 2900 isnt too bad. Just do a basic tune up, fill all liquids, check frequently, bring extra common parts to break, and a few uncommon parts that arent ready in part stores. Ill be driving my 65 Ranchero to Vancouver Canada this summer, thats gonna be a fun trip from western WA.

Good luck!
Ryan
 
falcon_master":1be3yjca said:
Well I got the 170 freed and it spins great now. Just took some more line in the cylinders and looks like after letting it sit for a few days it self healed. so now I'm looking into the cooling system cause it's going to be about 840 miles back to my place in az. Using an rpm calculator with my size tires and rear gear and trans gear I found to go 80 mph I'll be turning about 3,500 rpm
Jarod

It'll run out of breath about the same time or before you hit 70 with a 3.5 rear gear. Don't worry about breaking it, assuming you don't just get it running and do this. Run it hard for a week and change the oil. Then go for it.
 
Thanks for the info everyone.very helpful to know. I think I've grown a bit more fond of this engine over time. My next big hurtle is the front wheels. I gotta replace the tires and I'm hoping that there not to much work needed to the wheel bearing and brakes cause I can figure out drum brakes but an 100% confused on that. I do have a shop manual for the falcon though. They just keep calling for these special tools I don't have. Another side question how do you read the damper to time the engine I don't see any marks on it I see the timing marks on the cover but not the damper
 
:unsure: The damper should have the marks present.Have you cleaned off the damper yet?If not clean it well.I use a hand held wire brush and some kerosene or mineral spirits.Then some spray carb cleaner.After cleaning,I use some yellow marker like they use in a salvage yards to mark parts.Gently wipe off the excess and those timing marks will really pop when the strobe hits them.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
Howdy F_M and all:

The mark on the damper is a nick, or "V" notch on the inner edge of the damper. As Leo has already mentioned highlight it with a bright color that will be easily spotted under the timing light. The "V" notch is easily located from under the car. Also clean the timing tab for easier reading.

On the front hubs, I would inspect the axles and wheel bearings carefully before repacking with axle grease. On the brakes, inspect first. If shoes need to be replaced many parts stores have tools that they loan. The special tools are sure handy but are not necessary to do the job. On the drums, they either measure within specs or they don't. If they don't they will need to be replaced. Good luck.

Adios, David
 
Hi, as mentioned, check the brakes and pack the front wheel bearings. Usually you can reuse the seal if you knock the inner bearing and seal out with a long punch. The main drum brake tools are the return spring tool, the hold down spring tool ( this one is easy to do will a water pump pliers) and the adjusting spoon. Each tool should be about $10. You will need a medium size water pump pliers for the dust cap and axle nuts, and a wire cutters (dykes) for the cotter pin. Ask again how to set the wheel bearing preload if you don't know. Good luck
 
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