68 Mustang stick shift, 200-6 torque box to fuel pump-fuel line routing.

I recently replaced my tank and fuel lines due to rust making it's way to my carb. I bought a Classic Tubes brand 5/16" two piece fuel line kit. The kit goes from the fuel tank to the torque box under the drivers feet and terminates with a flared end. From there the second much shorter piece of fuel line goes through the torque box and up into the engine compartment somehow. Both front and rear segments are joined together by a short piece of rubber fuel line right outside the rear of the torque box. For the record, my car was manufactured on Valentine's Day 1968 (it's a red coupe with a white vinyl top :shock: )so all the vendors recommend the same style kit I got so I should have the correct parts.

Ok, so all that said, the rear piece that I removed from my car, matched up exactly to the new rear piece and it installed without any drama. The front piece looks completely different from what was on my car though. I should say that my car DID have a 3/8" kit that was on it before I took ownership back in 1989 so I have no idea if it was stock or not. My stock piece exited the torque box and just followed the frame rail right up onto the outer fender well and poked through a hole in the fender wall and connected to the fuel pump via a rubber fuel line. It made perfect sense. The new front fuel line appears to want to exit the torque box and go under the frame rail and poke itself up into the engine bay from underneath. It seems to want to fit there sort of, but it's awfully close to the clutch bar and I can't figure out how the heck it would stay attached to the car with the fuel line clips I have.

Does anyone have any pics of their front fuel line setup going to the fuel pump. Ideally a shot from engine bay would help and it would be fantastic to have a pic from underneath so I can figure out how to attach the line. Any tips, am I off track on my routing. Thanks much for any tips!

Dave
 
"...so I have no idea if it was stock or not. ..."
There might B 3 ways of completing.
1) OE, 2) yer OP's (who sold U the car) and 3) the best way U can. The sales co. (if they're a goodun) may have tech support, by phone (or on-line chat) to help out. I like the 3rd method (as best as can B - out of the weather, not near any sharps or heat). The newer cooper/nickle/iron stuff is great. Bend it up at home. It don't rust...

Another more informed member will B along shortly. Here's hopin for pic!
(y)
 
Thanks for the reply Chad. I've lost touch with the original owner so that's out, the vendor did try to help, but they (Classic Tubes) were were zero help so I guess I'll keep scouring the internet for pics and may end up just drilling my own holes since it will never be a concours restoration with me in charge of it :LOL: !
 
"...the original owner..."
it won't fit his way?

With this new stuff there's not much of an excuse for not goin DIY. (except may B price, it's a lill more, but this is a case of "U get what U pay 4." It really is good stuff. I'd say life long durability).
A bender is real cheep - either the 'spring' or handled/degree clamper /and/ double flair tool R bout all U need (all ways nice to have an excuse to buy a new tool!)

Give it a try! We can walk U thru when @ it if wanted...
:nod:
 
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