Econoline Inline 6 200 Frustrations!

Hey Y'all!

I am new to form and even newer to working on classic cars/cars in general but I am mechanically inclined and can usually figure things out with a little help and photos. I purchased a 1964 Ford Econoline with a inline 6 200, 3 speed manual, and a 9inch rear end. The carb is the autolite 1100 with what I believe is the stock load-o-matic distributor. The heater and van have been removed, I don't know if this makes a difference or not but thought I'd mention it. I purchased the van from San Diego and drove it to Texas and it ran pretty good except for having to adjust the points, rough idling, some flat spots. Now that I am in Austin, Texas its worse. The long stop lights/stop and go traffic cause it to run inconsistent (start up is rough), heat soak issues at the stop lights, no really overheating issues from the what I can tell, and a ton of flat spots especially in 1st gear after sitting at a light, and lastly, gas fumes in the the cabin at the stop lights and after shutting it off. The summer is coming up and I need to know if its worth putting a bunch of money into this inline 6 in order to get it running as a daily driver or swap in a V8 (that is what every mechanic is telling me to do and I cant seem to find anyone to support the inline 6 in Texas). I'd like anything information from you all regarding the following:

I ultimately want to get this baby running smooth and consistent; I'd love to remove the engine and mill the cylinders but don't have the money to pay someone to do it all so at the moment, power is not my concern (Unless someone near Austin, Texas would like to help me out :D ) Im thinking the following bolt on parts will help my issues. Please let me know your thoughts and options for parts, specifically if you drive an econoline.

FlowKooler Water Pump
Champion 3 Row Aluminum Radiator (Recommendations if I need an electronic fan)
Weber 32/36 DGV (Manual Choke)
Weber Carb Adapter
Redline Fuel Regulator
Redline Jet Pack
Electronic Fuel Pump (thoughts?)
Dual Headers (Any Suggestions)
Header Bolt Kit
Custom Single Exhaust (any suggestions)
Petronics or DUI Distributor
Scott Drake OverFlow Tank

I know that ever build is different but Looking forward to as much feed back in order to get a solid plan in order. Thanks in advanced!

Happy Vannin'!
 
All looks good till you get to the distributor.
Do you want to spend close to $400.00 for a unit with known problems, 2 piece housing, not reliable in hot climate's, oil starved shaft, rotors interfering with advance & wiped distributor gear.
Under your weber install a heat shield to keep heat away from the carburetor area.
Save $200.00 & install one of my HEI's distributors which will be recurved for your combination. See the for sale section of the forum for info on my HEI.
The V-8 will have more power, but the fuel mileage will be double that of the six.
Plus you already have a decent 200 engine.
Ask & i will be glad to help. Bill
 
W E L C O M !!!
where in TX R U located?

just some suggestions-

try to ID all parts B 4 proceeding. Know what U have (& ID mismatches).
The running probs remind me a LOM/SCV mismatch (carb/distributor feedback system 4 advance)...see the (Ford 'Falcon" 6 cyl performance) "HANDBOOK" & above "Tech Archive" to become more familiar w/this ignition method.
Y they have the 9inch is beyond me but it's beefy!
Prove 2 ur self it is what was sold 2 U by engine casting #s, head casting #s (or carb mount bolts), and carb & dizzy ID.
Partner up here (for motor) and with vintage-van.com (4 much of the rest) to get what U have to a good place 1st, then go for mods.(VV may tell U no bent 8 w/o certain mods in a '65. Motor hangs on clips I hear. The 8, no idea).
'the Handbook' is good for drive it now (get some good use) as U have money/time to upgrade and make a plan (may B even more important) on how to do so to its best end and ur optimal custom/preferred end goal.
 
Howdy Alejandro:

And Welcome to the forum! Yes, it is that good. From the sound of your description my suggestion to you would be to rebuild the 1100 carb. A rebuild kit will run about $50. Follow the included instructions. That should solve many of the problems you described- gas leaks, float problems, rough spots and stalling. Also change the fuel line filter and check all gas line connections to be sure there are no leaks.

The other basic piece would be to go through the stock ignition- point and condenser, spark plugs and plug wires and possible a new cap and rotor, depending on condition. Make sure the vacuum advance canister is working and that the vacuum line is sealing. Finally set the initial advance at 5 degrees more then stock specs.

This will go a long ways toward getting the engine running up to it's potential. Then it is time to assess what you have and what else you might want to do to upgrade your baby.

IF I were in your shoes and making a list here would be mine-
First- identify what engine you have. The cylinder head casting code is on top of the intake log, right behind where the carb sits. The block casting code is on the side of the block under the exhaust manifold. Those casting codes will tell us what you are working with.

Second- After getting it running as good as possible, assess the engines condition. Look at the spark plugs for condition, do a compression check. Report the results here and watch the ideas flow in.

Third- Assess what you want from your project and how you will plan to use it. Assess your budget. Do your research, read, ask question. Investing is a shop manual for your vehicle would also be a good idea.

This is probably not the kind of advice you wanted to hear but it will be the ideal place to start. Good luck and best wishes. And keep it coming. And again, welcome.

Adios, David
 
Hi, as mentioned, evaluate the engine you have by a compression test and vacuum test and post the results. After you rebuild the carb check the distributor shaft for wear. There is probably a long neglected oil cup on the side. A dwell meter will show a worn and wobbling shaft if the dwell bounces all over the place. The dwell should be steady as you give it some gas.
A good tune up and easy carb rebuild should get you back in shape. Also get the Ford Falcon Performance Handbook before spending money on upgrades. Good luck
 
Welcome to the forum.

First, the reason people are telling you to check the casting codes on the engine is to determine if it is original to your Econoline, or has been switched out to a later engine. A lot can happen to a vehicle in 50+ years. It may not even be a 200, it could be a 170. A 200 has five freeze plugs on the exhaust side of the block, a 170 has three freeze plugs. A 200 was offered in 1964, but it had four main bearings instead of the seven main bearings found in 65+ vehicles. The casting code on the block will help ID the engine. The later engines, 67+, does not use a carb with the load-o-matic distributor.

Once you determine what displacement and year of engine you have, you can decide how to proceed. How many miles are on your Econoline?
It may be time to replace the distributor. At the minimum, it would be best to get rid of the points; Pertonix if you keep the distributor, DSII if you need it replaced (I recommend a recurved DSII from wsa111).

Rebuild the carburetor to get rid of the leaking and gas smell. Your hard starting can be from vapor lock, install an inline electric fuel pump.

Keep the questions coming. Everyone here are eager to help you.
 
A.Luna,
Welcome to the forum full of giggles and grins!
Yep,you're in the planetary capital of stoplights and stop signs.I cussed their traffic division when I was building AMD,motorola 3m..
Sounds like carb and ignition problems. Do what these fellows suggest and it'll get better.
When you get everything identified,I've got a YF carb and non-LOM dist.that will get you thru the summer cheaply at least. Came off the same barn find engine but you must make sure it's a 5/16 oil pump shaft. So do your homework.Find out what you've got first.
AND also,a 9"?I would almost bet it's an 8",hard to tell with just an eyeball.Take the radiator to get rotted/cleaned for now,summer's coming and I know austin doesn't get as hot as Odessa,satans heating pad.
 
chero1369":3iv1ier0 said:
...I would almost bet it's an 8",hard to tell with just an eyeball...
Good catch, chero!
May B true - the 8 has a flat on top & U can get a scocket on very bottom 2 bolts;
can't get 1 on the 9, it's more (totally) round on top & has a vertical rib or web @ top of removable center section...
 
Thank you all for all the feedback! After having a thorough look at the distributor and carburetor with a mechanic here in austin that will be helping me with the build he noticed the following:

The rotor on the distributor was completely loose and not sitting properly
The carburetor was rebuilt wrong and over tightened, the housing is warped
The carburetor obviously needs to be rebuilt (opting to purchase a new one)
The vacuum advance not hooked up nor operable

His suggestions were the following:

Purchase 1 barrel carb that will bolt on directly to the manifold without modification or adapter (try to keep it as stock as possible)
Purchase the correct distributor that will allow for vacuum advance
Purchase a 3 row aluminum radiator
Change all fuel lines, fuel filter

Do you guys have any experience with getting rid of the autolite for a better 1 barrel carb? I was thinking the Holley 1904 and I will definitely be getting my distributor from billy the distributor man once I decide on the correct carb.
 
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