Vintage Inlines 32/36 Weber Swap Kit?

68BlueStraight6

Active member
Probably a repetitive grouping of questions but I have scoured the forum in search of similar questions with no results.

I have had hesitation at stops and poor idle with the car since I have had it. After shipping the stock Autolite out to Kurt twice, I have all but given up on it. After doing a bunch of research, with the results I am looking for(reliability) I believe the Weber 32/36 DGV is the best answer for me. If anyone has anything against those beliefs please feel free to sound off. I upgraded the Distributor to one of Bill's custom curved HEI units.

Now the questions:

1. Does it make the most sense to buy the kit from VintageInlines.com? I just want to do the bolt on kit as it seems the most user friendly. Again, not looking for the most HP performance outcome, just reliability and drive-ability.

2. Are any phenolic spacers over the adapter plate needed to clear the valve cover? hood clearance issues?

3. Electric choke or manual choke? I am sure this is user preference but my wife drives this car, so I want the most user friendly setup.

4. Does Vintage Inlines offer a discount to forum members? Least important questions but had to ask. :LOL:

5. Any other words of advice?

As always I appreciate the groups comments and concerns!

Best regards,
Kris
 
You'll want to double check the installed height of whatever choice you make. Matt might be able to give you this information. I know that I have slightly more room with my Holley than I did with the Autolite 2100. I don't think you'll have to run a spacer if you use the 2 bbl adapter. If you do go the route of installing the direct mount, then yes, you will need some spacers so that you have enough clearance for the throttle linkage and to clear the valve cover.
 
post displacement as that's originally a 2.3L, 4 cyl carb I believe.
Nice choice, let us know how it all wrks!
 
Not to be a Debbie downer, but I put a 32/36 on my 170. I also used a wide band AFR gauge. It was hard to tune even with the AFR gauge. I would make one small jet change and it would throw everything off.
 
Vintage Inlines records in their post that they have it specially jetted for a inline 6 car. Did you buy yours from them?

Note: Now jetted for 6 cylinder engines. However, occasionally you'll need to rejet the carb to get the best performance. Please see the Classic Inlines tech article on Adjustments & Tuning for more information. See link in Tech Section.
 
there's 5 sizes frm 144 - 300 ci, don't U need the specific 1 for ur motor?
Is yours a 200/3.3?
The pinto/Lima's "holley5200" / "weber32/36" may B close (2.3L) but still a full liter away.
:unsure::
 
No, stated again:
chad":15v6fvyr said:
Nice choice, let us know how it all wrks!
just has 2B set up right (jets) internally/externally (fully assembled w/air cleaner) bout 6 inches hi...
 
Let us know how it works makes me feel like a potential guinea pig. Looking to see what the other folks are running and having success with.
 
ur reading into my wrds.
I'm sure others have done it successfully, I'd like to.
:D
 
Howdy,

Let me start off by saying, i got you. I have the jet sizes posted in a YouTube video for Weber Conversion Ford 200. I didnt go into depth about how to do it all but more what to do. Im about to tell you the uber cheap way how to do this, but its a little harder than just buying a preset kit.

Id do the auto choke. I look at it this way, my car was designed not to have it, so have it will not. I dont mind the manual choke, but it reminds me of a time i was really peeved off with the car and crappy carburetors i had on it.

But anyhow, here what you'll need to do to go about this the cheap way.

1) Aquire Weber 32/36. Either through the kit or ebay or whatever means necessary. I got mine from Ebay for $55, lucky as hell.

2) Fuel regulator set at 3lbs, NAPA has one for $40 or $45, its a low pressure preset at 3lbs.

3) Get the adapter, either from Clifford or Vintage Inlines, i got mine from Vintage. The phenolic spacer is good. I went with a .25" but will be moving up to the .5" here soon. Just to make 100% sure of no percolation since i had huge probs with that last summer on my Holey 1904. But i also have hot start probs sometimes.

4)The jets will cost you a total of $45ish. I got them from Pegasus. There are 6 jets all together, 2 main jets, 2 air correctors, and 2 idle jets. Check the pic for the numbers. These are for an almost stock or stock 200. Almost meaning HEI, maybe slightly better cam, headers, etc.

5)Throttle cable for linkage. Summit has it. I bought a Lokar cable and plan on installing it soon. Im running slightly modified stock linkage but its only driveable, i dont get the full power since the linkage doesnt move enough.

6) If you want the round 5 1/8" air cleaner, youll need an adapter, do the redline one from Redline or Vintage Inlines or Ebay, its $40 from Redline.

If you have any other questions id be happy to help. I loved doing this to my 65 Ranchero.

Screenshot_20180317-013833.png

Good luck man!
Ryan
 
Out of all the carbs I've tried on the inline six, the 32/36 has been the smoothest idling. I think that small primary venturi pulls a strong idle signal through the carb so that helps it idle well. Overall the carb has a little bit of the best of both worlds- a smooth running economy carb if you are running on the first barrel and when you do dip into the secondary you can really tell the difference. There are other carbs if you want maximum power, but if you want a smooth running carb I think it's all about how well you can fit it the 32/36 into your space and hook up the linkage.
 
The 32 36 is a good over all carb did the bolt on swap with the classic inline kit ran fine. Plugs showed it had the right tune with the jets it had. Used the .25 spacer to clear the valve cover. And are you sure the carb is the problem. I had mine doing the same thing turned out it was a very stretch timing chain that was bouncing the can all around at idle. I would not expecting a problem with your current carb as you have had it gone through twice. Check for vacuum leaks, if a auto check the modulator line too. Also fell free to check the form sale section as one may pop up there, ( I might be saleing one )
 
This is all great info. I'm getting ready to install a Weber 32/36 progressive carb that I just purchased from Vintage Inlines onto my '65 Mustang. I see I need to purchase a Lokar throttle cable. Perusing the Summit Racing web site, there are several 'kits' to choose from. Hence my dilemma. Which throttle cable kit(s) do I need? Any help is appreciated
 
So, How did it work out? Any update on the install?
I'm about to do the VI kit, if anyone has any specific guidance =)

Thanks!
-DrC
 
Rareair":20zdcsx7 said:
This is all great info. I'm getting ready to install a Weber 32/36 progressive carb that I just purchased from Vintage Inlines onto my '65 Mustang. I see I need to purchase a Lokar throttle cable. Perusing the Summit Racing web site, there are several 'kits' to choose from. Hence my dilemma. Which throttle cable kit(s) do I need? Any help is appreciated
I used a Lokar cable and a gas pedal out of some Ford. I have the 36" one but its a bit long. But I'd rather have too much and can cut it rather too short.
 
"...4. Does Vintage Inlines offer a discount to forum members?..."
He's a member here, does not herald results. He duz havea email
function on the site.

You mention autolte - the 1100?
I really likea 32/36 but instead of the answer, what's the Q?
U say dies at idle. Not to talk U outta the new carb but that is often
a timing issue. R U familiar w/the SCV/LOM system? Read the tech archive
@ big blue box above crossed screwdriver/wrench or the Handbook? What's been
tried to resolve the hesitation, just the 1100 rebuild? VI also hasa copy of the Handbook
if not read yet which can 'put U straight' about this pre '68 system...
 
Bump, bump?

Read up? Whaja try?
Runnin beddah?
 
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