Picked up a 250...

sefus

Well-known member
Alright experts, tell me what I got! I saw a "running when pulled" 250 on craigslist for $50 so I jumped on it. Sticker says its a 1979, I see the Dura Spark but dont know which carb this one is and am forgetting my specs on the 250s for different years. The alternator looks newer (are they a special anything worth upgrading to?) and the ignition module Im sure somebody can use. A plan is already in the works to just use the head on my 200 but of course after its loaded up in the back of my truck the guy selling it says "know anybody that would want a couple 289s or a 302?" Quit tempting me lol.
 

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Beau, first get the head magnafluxed to make sure its crack free.
Take it to a shop that can pre-heat the head then have a center exhaust divider installed.
Have the intake log brazed up in all the log areas. Mill the top of log to accept a direct mount adapter for a 2-bbl.
Install all new valves sold by Vintage Inlines. Have the machine shop clean up the bowl area under the valves. Make sure you do a 30 degree back cut on the intake valves.
Run a valve spring compatible with your cam. Call Jerry at Schneider Cams for a recommendation.
Mill the head .070" to get the cc's down to 50cc's.
Purchase a Victor head gasket it has a compressed thickness of .084" & seals better than the Felpro. Advance Carries them under the carquest name. Bill
 
Nice score! The alternator is probably a 60 amp they are good units but all depends on what you have now the mounting brackets won’t work on a 200 though. The DSII parts could likely work on your 200. What are you planing to do with the 250 short block? Good luck (y) :nod:
 
... lots of fancy emission hosing and fan, Alt on left side, maybe a late Granada or LTD?. Whats #'s by starter?.

haev fun
 
Like Bill said, definitely have the head magnafluxed before you sink any time or money into it. Tell the machinist to pay particular attention to the #3 and #4 exhaust valve areas. I wasted a bunch of time porting a D7 head that both the 3 and 4 exhaust seats/head area were cracked toward each other. And now my D5 head has a crack in the same area on #4. The cracks were on the thick side of the head, opposite of the ports, at 2 and 10 o clock, towards each other or center of the head. It seems like weak spot, although it doesn't look like it should be. But after seeing this twice now with late model heads that otherwise look ok it should be pointed out to the guy looking for cracks with the magnafluxing. Those exhaust ports being side by side must be the problem, but you'd think it would crack on the port side.
 
Thanks guys. If you cant guess, I had contacted Bill to help me round up some ideas for this one. Here's the lay out of what I have in mind:

So far the 200 in my 68 mustang has a curved DSII going through an MSD box and coil. besides a 6-2 header, thats pretty much it. My goal is best power while retaining easy drive-ability and reliability - its still just a six cylinder mustang, but I dont want it to be boring anymore. So Im trying to figure out a formula that I should shoot for with the machine work. I dont mind running good octane gas but dont want to push it too much so Im guessing mill for a max of 10:1 compression. I'll want a cam that can put it all to use and either a 350 or 500 cfm carb (will need to re-research what has been working for everyone). I'm kind of thinking just run the stock valve train unless you all think it would make a pretty dramatic difference or if a new cam would necessitate it for some reason - again, mild-not-wild build.

So there's my intention. Ideally I'd want to free up the power and fun by ditching the C4 and putting a 5s peed in but that would be a couple phases away for this car right now. Any specific valve sizes you guys would recommend? Anything else I'm missing? Will probably start tearing down the 250 in a day or two and am in no huge rush but do want to get the parts ordered up to get everything to the machine shop sooner rather than later. No plans for the 250 short block at this time other than to clean it, oil it, and sit on it for a while. I cant imaging putting that in the car instead of an aluminum headed 289 that would be close to equaling the weight but way more power opportunity since with either one I'd be having to change up my suspension. This car isnt about power for me though. I have a prostreet /protouring mopar for fast, this is about easy reliable fun.

Oh and again, thanks Bill, youre the man!
 
Any reason to go with different valves than what the D9 has stock if they all look good?
 
check "the Handbook" and above Tech Archive (@ the big blue square...crossed wrench'n screw driver).
 
sefus":9bxriuuu said:
Any reason to go with different valves than what the D9 has stock if they all look good?

Depends on the power level your going for, right now they the are a 1.750 intake with 1.380 exhaust this is a decent size compared to what the older heads used. Some people do use up to a 1.80 intake and a 1.500 exhaust when going for a little more breathing. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
At Bill...I can't seem to find this .084 thickness Victor head gasket. Do you have a part number or direct link?
 
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