New plan. Does it make sense?

falcon_master

Well-known member
Ok so after talking to a seller about an old 63 200 4 main crank I also managed to find some 200 rods to come with it. My new plan is to pull out my 144 and put in my new 200 crank and rods and to rebuild the engine the process (might as well it's already out and apart) I am also seeing about buying a 200 cyl head as well. Then after all of that I am planning on buying a DUI dizzy from VI and putting that in with new wires and plugs. How's this sound to everyone. Would it be ridiculous to assume about 100-115 how from all these together thanks guys.
 
I think it would be awesome to see someone do this, but iiwm I'd look for a cheap 200. Is it clear that there is enough meat in a 144 block casting to bore it out to 3.68"? Even if it's ok you're stuck with a 1/4" oil pump drive and solid lifters; didn't all 144's come with solid lifter cams? If time and money is no matter it would be way cooler to supercharge it. See how fast it'll spin.......

:beer:
 
Econoline":2nle79ab said:
I think it would be awesome to see someone do this, but iiwm I'd look for a cheap 200. Is it clear that there is enough meat in a 144 block casting to bore it out to 3.68"? Even if it's ok you're stuck with a 1/4" oil pump drive and solid lifters; didn't all 144's come with solid lifter cams? If time and money is no matter it would be way cooler to supercharge it. See how fast it'll spin.......

:beer:

The 144 or 170's blocks can not be bored out too 3.68. You would need to stay at 3.50 with available regular 144 oversize pistions about .030, .040, or .060 over if you can find them, or maybe .080 to .100 over in a custom piston this would work out to a 180 to 192 cu. in. Potential size. Your correct on the solid lifter cams and 1/4 inch drive oil pump unless you mod the block pilot hole to take a 5/16 inch drive shaft. Good luck on the build (y) :nod:
 
Thanks for the info guys. But one thing that confuses me is my shop manual for the car states that all 64 falcon six's have hydraulic lifters. I'm not sure though. I guell we will find out when I disassemble the thing. A question though. If I take the engine out and leave the trans in how do I like them back up to install it. Thanks
 
If you just drop a 200 crank into a 144 all else being the same where do you end up? Displacement-wise with the stroke. Is that a 170?
 
Econoline":3ky1ftfr said:
If you just drop a 200 crank into a 144 all else being the same where do you end up? Displacement-wise with the stroke. Is that a 170?

nope, it comes out to around 181ci, whether you use a 144 or 170 block since the bores are the same.
 
super4ord":21ynw9k8 said:
Just wondering??? Wouldn't you have to use custom pistons to put a 200 crank and rods in a 144/170 block??? or can you use the 144/170 pistons??? If you have to use custom pistons, what pistons would you use to make this 188 engine??? I'm interested!!!

Hope I'm not stepping on anyone's toes asking this question. Thank you!!!

Darrell

yep, these in fact;

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-1193H-5MM
 
super4ord":2ebxef9e said:
Just wondering??? Wouldn't you have to use custom pistons to put a 200 crank and rods in a 144/170 block??? or can you use the 144/170 pistons??? If you have to use custom pistons, what pistons would you use to make this 188 engine??? I'm interested!!!

Hope I'm not stepping on anyone's toes asking this question. Thank you!!!

Darrell

Yes you could also use a set of 144 pistion too, 170 pistions are to high of a compression pin height.

The combo would be a 4 main 200 crank (3.126 stroke) with a set of 170 or 200 rods they are both the same at (4.715 long), a set of (144 over sized Pistons) .060 over would give you almost 187 cu. in. With a static compression ratio of 10.49 to 1. It would take a set of pistions measuring in at a 3.570 bore for a 188 cu. in. Or you can use the even better set of pistions that "rbohm" found and posted above would give you a 183 cu. in. with a static compression ratio of 10.05 to 1 too. More details in this group of recent posts (see below link). Good luck (y) :nod:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=78188&p=602620#p602620
 
I'd honestly just find a complete 200 for all that trouble and rebuild it. Find one with a 3.03 transmission and upgrade your trans as well.

Locally saw a complete '67 with trans, running when pulled for a V8 swap a few months ago for $300. There is always someone doing a V8 swap that will sell off their old 6 cheap.

For what I am assuming would be a first time engine build for you, you'd be better off to rebuild a complete motor than to mix and match all your components.

Put money in head work, and a mild cam.

Falcons with six bangers, even number matching aren't worth that much unless you're at a 100% rust free, concourse level restoration. Doesn't really up your value.
 
not sure 1 of these could B "numbers matchin" in the che**y sense.
The motor castings don't show 'model' - just yr, no?
The tags are usually gone...
And I'm not sure how (where) to read those 'stamped in' codes...
 
I still say drive it for awhile before you do soooky stuff like this. You say you're on a budget, a tight one, this aint cheap what youre doing. But definitely buy the 200 crank but dont worry about putting it in just yet. Collect all the necessary parta first, then once ready, then tear it apart.

Y'know what i mean?

Good luck,
Ryan
 
frozenrabbit":kwntk3m5 said:
I'd honestly just find a complete 200 for all that trouble and rebuild it. Find one with a 3.03 transmission and upgrade your trans as well.

For what I am assuming would be a first time engine build for you, you'd be better off to rebuild a complete motor than to mix and match all your components.

I agree. No offense and hats off for trying, but why reinvent the wheel with your first build?? (if it is your first?). Get a 200, it'll be CHEAP, add some go fast parts, ENJOY, then grab another block and mess around. Sometimes it's hard enough making things work right even when many people have done it before you. (as I reinstall my transmission, re-do the rear main seal and pan gasket etc...)

It's good you're asking alot of questions!
pike
 
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