How to tell water flow and road draft tube questions

falcon_master

Well-known member
Hey everyone. So as part of making this 144 run again I’ve been doing some checking on the parts. One thing I noticed after running it for 4-6 minuets the temp gauge was still just barely above C and after the engine was turned off I could hear the water boiling inside. So I filled the radiator some more and tried to bleed the system but almost no water flow seems to be coming to radiator with cap open. And with it on after 8 minuets it’s already puking antifreeze on the ground. So thermostat maybe? My second question is is a road draft tube still ok for emissions. I’m in Colorado and I’m not sure I’ve read contradicting statements about smog exemptions. And if not how do I upgrade to a PCV system. I’ve been trying to be patient and keep this engine but I feel so indecisive. One moment I want to keep the original engine and not suffer the pain of an engine swap and the next I won’t the power of a 200. So yeah I’m pretty silly. I need to make up my mind. Thanks everyone
 
On the over heating if you have a temp gun you can watch the temp rise on each side of the T stat. I have seen t stats cause that as well as water pumps not moving water ( fins were rusted off), clogged radiator, head gadgets. If not it's a easy one to swap out if your not sure. On the open emissions if it was factory your fine. Swapping it to a closed pvc is not a challeng.
 
Don't heat warp the motor/head or heat freeze up the pistons (melt them to the cylinder walls) by running a hot motor (1 - 2 min is OK, gotta cool it down B4 runnin/heatin up again. An hr or so). I think U began w/the pistons rust froze to the cylinder walls. This one won't B 'correctable'.

"...I’ve been trying to be patient and keep this engine but I feel so indecisive...."
We all go thru that. Once U say "I'm gunna let that decision wait. Right NOW - I;m gunna learn on this 1, not ruin it, hopefully get it to run the best I can" & delay that decision till U C what this 1 can do...U will B able to concentrate on the issues at hand. U get the chance to save up some $ too (for 'the day', or 2 put more inta this'un). First things first, slo'n easy, 1 ft in frnt of tuther.

Keep talkin...
 
If it came from the factory like that then its fine. I doubt the people at the smog checks even know what a road draft tube is lol. My extra 65 200 block has a road draft tube as well. We thought it was for cooling or something for water but after reading we discovered its really an oil thing.

Be careful with getting it that hot. Just swap the Tstat and call it good to make sure. Mine runs dirt cold too, like barelt above C. Ill be putting in a 195°F one soon but i live in a cooler climate here nesr Seattle. In Arizona, the 180°F is standard so id go with that. A new water pump is like $20. Probably wouldnt be a bad time to do a complete flush and replace all that. I did the same on the Studebaker but my rebuilt pump's seal broke and puked water out the front, like water falled out. So always go new rather rebuilt even if the difference is only like $5. Better safe than dealing with waranties and shipping.

Yoy can rent a thermal gun i believe from NAPA or some of them kinda stores. Probably good to use that while testing all this. I dont believe the car should be running over 200°F or it should be near it, give or take 5-10°F.

Good luck,
Ryan
 
My 200 runs cool also. At least so far. :)

If the water is not flowing. I would change out the t-stat, t-stat housing and water pump. Not that expensive for all 3. But, first try flushing the system. Radiator and also heater core via the heater hoses. Does the 144 have a plug on the block like the 200? If so, drain the block. You might be surprised at what you find.
 
falcon_master":pz9lsfum said:
Hey everyone. So as part of making this 144 run again I’ve been doing some checking on the parts. One thing I noticed after running it for 4-6 minuets the temp gauge was still just barely above C and after the engine was turned off I could hear the water boiling inside. So I filled the radiator some more and tried to bleed the system but almost no water flow seems to be coming to radiator with cap open. And with it on after 8 minuets it’s already puking antifreeze on the ground. So thermostat maybe? My second question is is a road draft tube still ok for emissions. I’m in Colorado and I’m not sure I’ve read contradicting statements about smog exemptions. And if not how do I upgrade to a PCV system. I’ve been trying to be patient and keep this engine but I feel so indecisive. One moment I want to keep the original engine and not suffer the pain of an engine swap and the next I won’t the power of a 200. So yeah I’m pretty silly. I need to make up my mind. Thanks everyone

Sounds like there is a consensus on the T Stat being a cause, I agree that it should be pulled out checked to see if it's sticking or replace it. You might want to check the temperature gauge sender wire connection on the head is clean and snug fitting, also to make sure the dash temp gauge is operating correctly too.

A PCV system is easy to install and offers many advantages over the old road draft tube venting, if you don't mind your engine not being orginal looking. Personally I wouldn't spend the money to rebuild any street use engine and run it without installing a good PCV system. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
" How to tell water flow..."
once U get it runnin better, flush the system (read up on how or ask us). Put in a new thermostat. After that time U can look at the full radiator - with cap off & C the water surge in the opening. No real need to get any additives (like Prestone, etc - they are anti boil and anti freeze, rust inhibitors, etc all-in-one) just straight H2O can wrk this X of yr.
 
It shouldn't heat up that fast.Pull the T-stat,refill,check flow.You should be able to see flow,if not,see if water pump has any impeller left.
You never said if you flushed the radiator earlier,so think about pulling it and take to a radiator shop and have it cleaned and rotted out.That shouldn't cost more than $40,and it's like a new radiator.With a 2 core rad.,and you being in colo., a 160* ought to be fine.It's not like you see 117* weather as often as I do.
get a female garden hose connector and a hose clamp,pull both heater hoses off block,flush heater core.Once cleaned,don't reconnect until block is flushed or you''ll blow crud into heater core(personal exp.).
With the T-stat housing off,stick a coathanger wire in the water jacket and see how nasty it is.Once had to rig up pressure washer to block plug.that block had to be pulled,stripped,thumped upside down and hot tanked.But our water has be shot with a shotgun to get a spoon in it.R.O. filters don't last long out here.
Road tube is legal due to date of manufacture as stated,but redundant.if you have a breather cap on valve cover,that's enough,I mean,how much blow-by are you expecting?You can close that hole with a freeze plug if wanted to clean up a little.Doing this will also keep residue off.
I'll drink the beer for you,have fun.
 
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