Question on building up new to me short block

I do have a new question, at this point everything seems well within spec to reassemble with new bearings and rings and since the goal was to just get this car going with the T5 conversion(from auto) on a 200 and then decide if I want to go for a more performance build(i might be just happy enough), question is, if I skip the head shave with the 272/272 112 cam, will the current 9.0:1 CR be a dog? Other details were 1.6:1 rockers, Holley 2300(350) and 6/2 headers. Bone stock bottom end.
 
"...Chad, it came with the original with Holley 2V adapter and an unused CI 4V. I might make the CI available but I think it needs work to fit the Aussie cast iron head. #3 and #4 appear to have been pushed towards center on the CI though it looks like studs line up, I haven’t confirmed that. I have confimed 1,2 5 and 6 line up. See the pic where the aussi speed heat soak spells out the issue with 3 and 4."

that looks workable!
Thanks for the pic (2 intakes'n a second 1 w/a detail of 'close-up').

Wish I could remember who's "lackin".
May B they'll C this.
 
63falconATX":1b6zh2nj said:
bubba22349":1b6zh2nj said:
The out of round limit for a moly ring to seal is about .008 to .010 with about .005 bore taper. For a low budget rebuild using what you have, you shouldn't have any trouble getting your 200 short block to last from about 60,000 to 80,000 miles on a rering. Good luck (y) :nod:
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Click to expand...
"
63falconATX said:
.008 to .010? I know Ford published limits on the 200 at .005” and .010” but I had just assumed that was for straight up cast rings. My bores are looking pretty sweet in this light.
"

Yeah those specs aren't for the plain cast rings. Actually in Fords stock engines they have been using the Molly type Rings for many years now. :nod:
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
63falconATX":1jl5bkm0 said:
I do have a new question, at this point everything seems well within spec to reassemble with new bearings and rings and since the goal was to just get this car going with the T5 conversion(from auto) on a 200 and then decide if I want to go for a more performance build(i might be just happy enough), question is, if I skip the head shave with the 272/272 112 cam, will the current 9.0:1 CR be a dog? Other details were 1.6:1 rockers, Holley 2300(350) and 6/2 headers. Bone stock bottom end.
Click to expand...

Though this stock rebuild may not be like an optimized full on blueprinted combo i.e. With a zero decked block or an offset ground crankshaft for a little more stroke (.019) to get you too a zero decked block, plus fresh bores and better pistions. But even so it for sure won’t be a dog with the 2V head, 272 cam, 1.6 rockers, Holley 350, 6/2 headers and a 5 speed. Good luck (y) :nod: Edited
 
:unsure: Just a thought here.I think those intakes are for a 240/300.If so they won`t work with a small 6.
Good luck.have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
woodbutcher":14f6sx8k said:
:unsure: Just a thought here.I think those intakes are for a 240/300.If so they won`t work with a small 6.
Good luck.have fun.Be safe.
Leo
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Actually the ones in the back are real deal Aussie 250 intakes. The one up front are CI aluminum from the Arizona shop. I've already had the Aussie bolted to my Aussie head and they are perfect.
 
That's interesting and good to know. It looks like the bolt holes line up but the ports are offset.
 
Thank's,..It tells me that your crank is machined for a standard pilot ...But I get closer to 1.75 on the larger dia....A member said once that some late model cranks were not drilled for a pilot bearing..I think that is not true....
I am doing some research on late models.. .Does your block have the 6 bolt, dual pattern for the two bellhousing sizes?
 
Well to be honest I never looked for that drilling till your question. I'm glad its there. Hard to imagine they would have stopped. This motor was available with manual in the fox body through '82.

Mine is 6 bolt dual.

drag-200stang":2uh5h9vp said:
Thank's,..It tells me that your crank is machined for a standard pilot ...But I get closer to 1.75 on the larger dia....A member said once that some late model cranks were not drilled for a pilot bearing..I think that is not true....
I am doing some research on late models.. .Does your block have the 6 bolt dual pattern block?
Click to expand...
 
63falconATX":23tu1v1x said:
Well to be honest I never looked for that drilling till your question. I'm glad its there. Hard to imagine they would have stopped. This motor was available with manual in the fox body through '82.

Mine is 6 bolt dual.

drag-200stang":23tu1v1x said:
Thank's,..It tells me that your crank is machined for a standard pilot ...But I get closer to 1.75 on the larger dia....A member said once that some late model cranks were not drilled for a pilot bearing..I think that is not true....
I am doing some research on late models.. .Does your block have the 6 bolt dual pattern block?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
(y) :thanks:
 
On other thing to check is the crank stick out, at one point I was going to use my E0 engine in my bronco and discovered that my flywheel would rub on the block with out a 3/16-1/4" spacer, good luck
 
Nevadasmith":2f9g7wr2 said:
On other thing to check is the crank stick out, at one point I was going to use my E0 engine in my bronco and discovered that my flywheel would rub on the block with out a 3/16-1/4" spacer, good luck
Click to expand...
No work-around for that?
Thnx~
 
A crank spacer could be machined easy, I stopped on the E0 200, when I stumbled onto a D4 250, so I never finished that project, and I don't remember the exact thickness needed
 
so bolt it to the FW? Just throw it in there'n use the reg bolts. Right now I C I have no lill ring on 'outside of FW' that the bolts go thru (like on the motor I just removed). I'm thinkin of using regular washers rather than the 170's plate as it's too sm. 4 the 250.
I assume this is the area you'd place a spacer? Just the other side?
 
Mine appeared to sit just as the D8. Even still, I think a simple obstacle to overcome.

What I will need to do is relocate the bell housing dowel pins...
 
63falconATX":39ykjb0u said:
Mine appeared to sit just as the D8. Even still, I think a simple obstacle to overcome.

What I will need to do is relocate the bell housing dowel pins...
Click to expand...

:unsure: why would you ever need to relocate the bell housing dowel pins?
 
chad":1bza4ge8 said:
Nevadasmith":1bza4ge8 said:
On other thing to check is the crank stick out, at one point I was going to use my E0 engine in my bronco and discovered that my flywheel would rub on the block with out a 3/16-1/4" spacer, good luck
Click to expand...
No work-around for that?
Thnx~
Click to expand...
There is some thing wrong here, All 144, 170 and 200's stick out .062 even the low mount starter big bells.
The 250's are like a sbf at about 3/16 or so.
 
If you need to change the dowels from 8-1/2 to 9'' or vice versa you need to soak with pb blaster for a day and pull out with vice grips ...Twist oil twist oil pull...The left side you may be able to punch out from the other side...May have to cut them flush with a cheap 90 4'' cut off grinder...Got one for 9.50.
Be careful with the replacement,.I do not think they are standard, I will check...What ever you do do not crack your block by over forcing them..
 
bubba22349":3badrux0 said:
:unsure: why would you ever need to relocate the bell housing dowel pins?
Click to expand...

The E1 presumably was setup with a C4 or AOD and their current location do not line up with my C7ZA-6394-A bell.


drag-200stang":3badrux0 said:
If you need to change the dowels from 8-1/2 to 9'' or vice versa you need to soak with pb blaster for a day and pull out with vice grips ...Twist oil twist oil pull...The left side you may be able to punch out from the other side...May have to cut them flush with a cheap 90 4'' cut off grinder...Got one for 9.50.
Be careful with the replacement,.I do not think they are standard, I will check...What ever you do do not crack your block by over forcing them..
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips. I will likely turn my own from either 6061 or mild steel assuming I cannot reuse these. With 4 grade 8 bolts, not sure these are taking too much in sheer.
 
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