They are soft their only job is to locate the bell housing correctly so that it’s centered with the crankshaft. Good luck
CNC-Dude":z9m8tabc said:The plus or minus tolerance for the dowel locations is only +/- .001". More precise than you can achieve with a hand drill. If you vary more than that the bellhousing won't fit and/or the centerline for the pilot hole in the back of the crank will be out of center. You can only be so careful using a drill, but a milling machine will produce better results and less problems.
drag-200stang":1a6evz59 said:Ok I measured with some the best I could with some calipers and I do not get consistency among various blocks and pins..Unused holes seem about .368 and pin about .370 and then some pins are about .374 ...No wonder some will not come out..Standard non ford pin is .375..Just be very careful with this..A loose pin can easily be replaced but a cracked block ,well you know..
It sounds like you got this
For the knowledge base how about a pic of the rear of the block straight on. :thanks:
Well I was trying to use a re-drilled 300-6 flywheel so that was probably my stick out issue! Thanks for clarifying that!drag-200stang":1l9k47yu said:There is some thing wrong here, All 144, 170 and 200's stick out .062 even the low mount starter big bells.chad":1l9k47yu said:No work-around for that?Nevadasmith":1l9k47yu said:On other thing to check is the crank stick out, at one point I was going to use my E0 engine in my bronco and discovered that my flywheel would rub on the block with out a 3/16-1/4" spacer, good luck
Thnx~
The 250's are like a sbf at about 3/16 or so.