1967 Mustang I6 Upgrade to 240 CI

That head is from the 240 / 300 "big" block six and you most likely have the "small" block six in your Mustang like a 170 / 200. You would benefit from a copy of the Falcon Performance Handbook, it is a great reference tool to provide answers to questions like this. It also provides maintenance and tune up info and performance mods and is worth way more than what it costs. Questions are encouraged here so ask away!
 
Something wrong with that listing, the description says 240, but the pictures show a large log falcon six head. Read further it states it is a 250 head. o yes that head should work but will likely need milled further for compression b/c those heads had bigger comb chambers than your stock head and the new gaskets are thicker.
 
Hi, Econoline is correct about the listing. That head is OK for a valve job swap but there is always more to it. Early six heads had a smaller carb opening, so if you have the small carb it won't directly bolt on. As mentioned, get the Ford Falcon Performance Handbook to learn about parts interchangeablity, and to get the most out of your Ford six. Think about the long term plan before you start buying parts. Good luck
 
That's also a '78 head, by the cast number D8BE in photo, then cast numbers C9DE-M, D5DE-BE, D7BE-AB in the description.....What are you selling JEG'S????

I can clearly see, 5 to 10 years we are screwed for parts.....
 
frozenrabbit":ek378f35 said:
That's also a '78 head, by the cast number D8BE in photo, then cast numbers C9DE-M, D5DE-BE, D7BE-AB in the description.....What are you selling JEG'S????

I can clearly see, 5 to 10 years we are screwed for parts.....
Click to expand...

I noticed that to. So I searched for a head for a 79 Fairmont 3.3 and it said it was a D5 casting and it cost $60 more :roll:
 
If you look in the description detail notes it states:
Notes:
•VIN L
•Head Cast #: C9DE-M, D5DE-BE, D7BE-AB
•Complete with valves and springs

If you choose this Part Number: 059-2F33, you will get a head with one of the above casting codes.
Basically what ever head they grab first. D7 would be a good head with a larger intake; C9 not so much.

Do what Econoline suggests, search for a late model vehicle like a 79 Fairmont 3.3L or even a 82 Mustang 3.3L
to ensure getting a head with a D7 or even E0 casting code.

I did a search for a 1980 Fairmont 3.3L and came up with this Part Number: 059-2F66, E0 head for $350.99:
https://www.jegs.com/i/ATK-Engines/059/ ... 4294826692
$53 more than the 059-2F33, but you get a rebuilt head with the largest intake made.

You would have to have the head milled to get the combustion chamber down to a decent volume, but you could have the valve seats triple cut and lapped the valves while they are out.

Hope this helps.
 
Hi thestang, so you got lots of good advise in the above posts, I can only add a little to this conversation in a different area. Pretty obvious it's a typo on the Jegs head listing and this likely could be cutting into there sales of these heads. On your origanal post you didn't state what your goals for your 67 Mustang are other than asking if the listed Jegs head will fit on it. The answer is that no matter which head casting that they send you it will bolt on to your block. Plus at least two of those head castings stated in their add the D5 & D7 would be a bit better in at least one respect than your original 1967 head. I. E. These later heads were both designed for use with the unleaded fuels we now live with. So for stock or mild build up of a daily or weekend type driver they should work out well if you adjust by milling the heads combustion chambers to get back to the stock or a little more compression ratio, to gain back lost stock performance. If your goals are leaning more to a Hi Performance build up then the advise in the above posts are for sure the better way to go. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Wow lots of good info. The end game i want for this 67 mustang is to add boost to an I6 and take the car to the drag strip.
 
Ok than for building a boosted engine you won't want to mill or cut the head down to rasie it's compression ratio, you would try to stay with an 8 to 8.5 C.R. as the max. Also the bigger log head with the biggest valve sizes are going to give the best results. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
thestang":1y6040g2 said:
Hey guys
i am new to this site and this site was recommended to me by vintagemustang.
I am curious to find out if i can put this https://www.jegs.com/i/ATK-Engines/059/2F33/10002/-1 in my inline 6 cylinder 1967 mustang.
let me know what you guys think.
Click to expand...
Number One above'n beyond all else (2day or future) ID what U have...it's a 40/50 y/o rig.
Addvert's pretty krazie: lists it as 1 thing; describes it as another; has a pic of the 1st. So 2 outa 3 its a 250 head. :unsure:
Ck casting #s on head (U have 1 now?) & block. Go frm there toward a very specific end goal.

W E L C O M E to da forum (the best on dis site) !!!

Plez order 'the Handbook' (Matt @ vintage inlines dot com is 1 place) to get U goin if U R unfamiliar wid des ford i6s. WHile watin 4 that ck above (15 or 25 $ cheeper!) 'tech archive' in the big blue box, top line above (crossed tools) to know wasss up! :nod:
 
Hey! that is a head for a 200 / 250 if you bother to look closely.
You may want to check wrecking yards in your area, CL etc. You can still find whole engines for around $200. The 250 in my Bronco which was a low mileage motor and had new valve job cost me $125 and it runs strong. A while back I pulled a complete 250 out of a 79 Monarch at picnpull on half price day for around $150 or maybe a bit less with the carb and all accessories and nice big log head. It is worth considering to find a whole, complete late model motor and rebuild it while still driving what you have.
 
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